Yes I have it controlling my timing, MSD pro billet dizzy, using MSD 6AL box. Base at 13, all in I think at 34 total. I need to revisit that to confirm.
Fitech breaks everything down by idle, 1100, 3000, and 6000 rpm. This means that you're not at your total timing goal until 3k rpm (assuming that's where you have it set to go to 34 degrees, and hold 34 through 6k). I've found these rpm points give some lackluster results. It's possible in the 'breakpoints' settings to change the rpm values but I've also found that can give some unwanted results. But not reaching full timing until 3k might help explain why it footbrakes at 2400 rpm.
Fitech uses linear interpolation to determine timing for any given RPM. Assuming you're around 14-15 deg at 1100 rpm (since their instructions say to stay close to idle) that means you've got ~19 degrees of advance from 1100 to 3000 rpm, or about 1 degree per 100 rpm. At 2400 rpm you're only at 28 degrees. If I were you, I might try lowering the rpm breakpoint for mid-rpm down to 2k-2200 and see if you find some results. This should up your torque from 3k and below.
This is why for racing I'd stick with distributor controlled timing - you get far better control over the curve that way, just takes more monkeying rather than button pushing ;)
