Thoughts on the 452 heads

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Bigboy 68

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Thoughts on the 452 heads looking for opinions on building a set of 452 heads for a 498 stroker please let me know what you’re thinking I am thinking a set of big valves and some porting work
 
I did that on my 500 stroker. I pocket ported and port matched them and installed 2.14/1.81 stainless steel valves and new valve springs, keepers, locks and seals. By the time I was done I had about $1,000.00 tied up in the heads. When I did it there weren't a lot of affordable aftermarket heads, and they flowed pretty well but stalled at about 450 lift. If I had it to do over, I would invest the same money in a set of brand new stealth heads. By the way, I did break through into a water jacket on one head and have to start over.
 
I have a set that I am going to use on my 383 in my dart. I think they flowed around 280 @ .500 lift. There was quite a difference in flow rates before vs after, but in the age of aluminum as cast heads they cannot compare.
 
I like the short turn on the 906 a little better. Both good heads though, and if I’m not mistaken the 452 have hardened seats.
I may be wrong, but it seems iron heads make more power versus aluminum at the same compression ratio, and flow numbers.
I pocket ported my wife’s 440 sixpack heads and did the 2.14/1.81 thing, it’s impressive and will run 11s in the Challenger, and they’re 452 heads.
If I wanted the weight savings I’d be thinking something aluminum, and aluminum water pump housing.
 
Get realistic prices on all the parts and labor before getting too far into it.

What it will cost to rework the iron heads can vary greatly depending on what the shop rates in your area are, along with the condition of the heads you’ll be rebuilding.

I don’t mind reworking iron heads, but they’re not really all that cost effective to have me do them anymore....... unless the heads are in very good condition to begin with, and you’re not looking to have a high level of modification done.
(Or it’s a restoration job where the correct heads are preferred...... or they’re going to be used in class racing where the OE heads must be used)

Ede E Streets or Stealths are usually more cost effective.

If you’re planning on tackling the port work yourself, compared to the 915/906 heads, the 346/902/452 style intake port is more “beginner” friendly from a porting perspective.
 
My 452's are off a 76 New Yorker so they have hardened seats.
 
I run 6:80 ‘s 1/8 mile at 100 mph with a set of 452’s ported myself had big valves installed. 30 over 440 11 to 1 motor in a 71 charger 4.56 gear 10.5 x 29.5 tire !! I still have the heads !
 
Please give great consideration to what PRH/Dwayne is saying. I think the first porting I did was 59 years ago on a Clinton A-490 two stroke engine for my go-kart. We've made well over 700 HP on pump gas with ported factory iron heads.......but damn was it a lot of work. My experience tells me Dwayne knows what he is talking about.
 
I think the first porting I did was 59 years ago
Yeowza!!
I was 1 when you started.

I understand that for some people, there is a certain appeal to “doing it yourself”.
It is a hobby afterall.

Just be realistic about what you’re getting yourself into, and what it’s going to cost for a finished pair of heads.
Some people would just like to do their own heads...... even if there were essentially no cost benefits to it.
And that’s fine too.

It’s not really much different than building your own trans, or rear, or motor, doing body work, etc.
 
Thanks to all who have responded I will take everyone’s information into consideration for what I am going to do with my build I appreciate Everyone’s responses thanks again
 
I have a set of home ported 915s with 2.14-1.81 valves. Don't know what they flow, but lost e.t. when I bolted on stock pro comps. And their 40 lbs. lighter. It was alot of work. Once I ported the pro comps it was a different story.​
 
I have a set of home ported 915s with 2.14-1.81 valves. Don't know what they flow, but lost e.t. when I bolted on stock pro comps. And their 40 lbs. lighter. It was alot of work. Once I ported the pro comps it was a different story.​
I have a question your inbox is full
 
I have a set of home ported 915s with 2.14-1.81 valves. Don't know what they flow, but lost e.t. when I bolted on stock pro comps. And their 40 lbs. lighter. It was alot of work. Once I ported the pro comps it was a different story.​

So, your car slowed down when you installed ootb PC heads?
Which ones? The Victor copies?

I had a customer with a similar experience with some Indy SR’s about 20 years ago.
S/G roadster with pretty nicely ported 346’s with 2.18/1.81 valves.
One head developed a big crack under the middle two exhaust ports.
His brother, who also ran S/G had been down the cracked iron head road before and finally went to aluminum...... and never looked back.
Following that logic.......and it was right in the middle of the season with a national event coming up quick........ so rather than try and rush job another iron head, he bought some assembled, unported SR’s and ran them ootb.
It was slightly slower than it ran with the ported iron....... but the coolant stayed inside the motor.
He never looked back either.
Those SR’s are still in use.
 
They are the rpm copies. My freinds talked me into it. Said I would pick up. I was very dissapointed. I bought them bare and added quality valves, springs and retainers and run of the mill 3 angle valve job.
 
They are the rpm copies. My freinds talked me into it. Said I would pick up. I was very dissapointed. I bought them bare and added quality valves, springs and retainers and run of the mill 3 angle valve job.

Those heads are pretty easy to get good numbers out of.
They’re in the 260 range ootb.
A good valve job and some bowl work along with tweaking the SSR, trim the guide bosses, square up the intake port openings...... will get you into the 290 range.

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