Jeep 4.0 Cam Sensor connector or pigtail

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SABLT194

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I'm currently doing an LS1 (411 PCM) based install on an SBM Mopar. I'm using a Jeep 4.0L Cam Position Sensor and have really struggled to identify the connector manufacturer and part number. I purchased a pigtail on E-Bag but it was wrong as well. I ran across this one which (may) be correct but it's crazy money for a friggen connector.

Duralast Camshaft Position Sensor Connector 1069

Anybody have any info on the correct 3 cavity connector for the Jeep 4.0 Cam Sensor?

Regards,
Steve
 
Hi. Cool I look forward to your build. I have the pcm and wiring harness to do the same thing to my small block mopar. I just haven't got around to doing it yet. I looked but there website is under construction right now. But SD concepts sells the jeep cam sensor. I was trying to look to see if they listed what the p/n for the conector was. But so far all I found was a pic. Don't know if this will help you or not.

Screenshot_20200428-092238_Chrome.jpg
 
Yep

yep I just ordered that Standard Motor Products pigtail. I ended up designing my own Jeep CPS adaptor as well as Crank Reluctor adaptor And CKP Mount. I’ll post some pics when I get a chance.
Cool. Look forward to your pictures. I take it you know about having to swap 4 and 7 coil and injector wires? Who is going to tune it? Also have to swap the firing order in the pcm. Sorry not trying to sound like a know it all.
 
Cool. Look forward to your pictures. I take it you know about having to swap 4 and 7 coil and injector wires? Who is going to tune it? Also have to swap the firing order in the pcm. Sorry not trying to sound like a know it all.
Thanks, I am aware of the ignition & injector swap. I've tuned numerous GM's over the years going back to the days of burning and UV erasing Eproms, (Tuned Port, LT1s, Turbo Typhoons, & LS1s) so that's a non issue. I have HP Tuners and got the 411 ECM, coils, and 60# injectors for free from a friend so it's a no brainer for me. The motor is a 4.125 stroker/ .040 over 340 block = 431 CID, Hughes Big Mouth Heads, Solid Roller Cam, Blah, Blah, Blah Blah. Should make great low end torque but run out of breath around 6500.

All going in a rotisserie'd 71 Dart that is also a work in progress. So when I get tired of priming and block sanding, I work on the EFI, and visa versa.

BTW, I did try to contact CD about a Jeep adaptor but was unsuccessful. I am willing to share my CAD drawing of adaptor components if needed. My CPS adaptor requires shortening and re-tanging the Jeep Sensor shaft. Makes a nice compact, clean arrangement IMO. Crank Reluctor adaptor was a bit more challenging. It tucks my 24X LS1 reluctor behind a Trickflow SFI balancer. The adaptor is designed to allow +/- 15 degrees of reluctor adjustment just by loosening 3 nuts on the front of the crankshaft pulley. The CKP sensor is rigid mounted on the bottom 2 bolts of the driver's side of the timing cover. CKP shim rings will set the air gap to .030 or so. All nice, compact, tucked close to the block, and rigid. Requires an old 273 timing cover that has no hump on it for timing marks..

In theory It'll all work. I also went with an Eddy Super Victor EFI intake with a Holley 4150 EFI Throttle body. I have my fingers crossed that it's going to fit under a stock hood with a drop base air cleaner. Should be mocking that up in a few days to confirm. Fingers are seriously crossed!
 
Thanks, I am aware of the ignition & injector swap. I've tuned numerous GM's over the years going back to the days of burning and UV erasing Eproms, (Tuned Port, LT1s, Turbo Typhoons, & LS1s) so that's a non issue. I have HP Tuners and got the 411 ECM, coils, and 60# injectors for free from a friend so it's a no brainer for me. The motor is a 4.125 stroker/ .040 over 340 block = 431 CID, Hughes Big Mouth Heads, Solid Roller Cam, Blah, Blah, Blah Blah. Should make great low end torque but run out of breath around 6500.

All going in a rotisserie'd 71 Dart that is also a work in progress. So when I get tired of priming and block sanding, I work on the EFI, and visa versa.

BTW, I did try to contact CD about a Jeep adaptor but was unsuccessful. I am willing to share my CAD drawing of adaptor components if needed. My CPS adaptor requires shortening and re-tanging the Jeep Sensor shaft. Makes a nice compact, clean arrangement IMO. Crank Reluctor adaptor was a bit more challenging. It tucks my 24X LS1 reluctor behind a Trickflow SFI balancer. The adaptor is designed to allow +/- 15 degrees of reluctor adjustment just by loosening 3 nuts on the front of the crankshaft pulley. The CKP sensor is rigid mounted on the bottom 2 bolts of the driver's side of the timing cover. CKP shim rings will set the air gap to .030 or so. All nice, compact, tucked close to the block, and rigid. Requires an old 273 timing cover that has no hump on it for timing marks..

In theory It'll all work. I also went with an Eddy Super Victor EFI intake with a Holley 4150 EFI Throttle body. I have my fingers crossed that it's going to fit under a stock hood with a drop base air cleaner. Should be mocking that up in a few days to confirm. Fingers are seriously crossed!
Cool I cant wait to see all the install pics etc. Lol cool maybe I found a tuner for mine. Lol I had the pics saved on my phone of what the SD cam and crank sensor small block mopar set ups look like. Well you saw the cam sensor. Thanks for all the info on your build.
 
Here's a few pics of the mock up I'm doing on my 318. I pretty much have everything doped out now. When I get that CPS pigtail, I'll wire it in and power up the 411 PCM, work through the fault MILs, and verify sensors are reporting. Then it's back to bodywork for a while until my pistons arrive to finish up the 431.
IMG_3119.jpg
IMG_3118.jpg
IMG_3117.jpg
IMG_3116.jpg
 
So, I did fire up the 411 PCM and got my HP tuners reporting data. I have good feedback from TPS, IAT, MAP, CLT sensors. Can't really tell about CKP (crank). I bugged wires on the CMP (cam position to try to see if I was getting anything back. Took a bit of research to get the Jeep pin outs of that sensor. Long and short is I think I fried the sensor. I either had run 12V to the ground pin - oooooorrrr, The Jeep sensor is supposed to have a +5 supply and not 12V supply like the 411 PCM supplies. So, picked up an new CPS and will put 5V on it and see what I get. Also ordered a 98 Ford Explorer CPS which looks like it'll bolt right on the Jeep body. The Ford sensor is a 12V system I do believe. Gonna plug in the O2s tomorrow and see if I can get some feedback going from them as well.
 
Yes the Jeep sensor uses 5V. But I dont see why you couldn't just put a resistor in line and dropped the 12V down to 5V for the cam sensor. I know Andy F sells one that uses a ford cam sensor.
You engine set up looks awesome. How did you mount your Ignition coils to your valve covers? I mean did you weld studs to your valve covers or did you drill threw them and use bolts? I just bought a set of the powder coated black Fabricated Aluminum ones for my 360 and would hate to have to grind on them. Lol
Wear are you going to mount the Nock sensors? I need to get off my Butt and start working on the wireing harness for mine.
 
Here is one wiring Diagram I found for the jeep cam sensor. I have a better one saved on my phone some wear. I just have to find it.

Screenshot_20200506-092401_Google.jpg
 
Yes the Jeep sensor uses 5V. But I dont see why you couldn't just put a resistor in line and dropped the 12V down to 5V for the cam sensor. I know Andy F sells one that uses a ford cam sensor.
You engine set up looks awesome. How did you mount your Ignition coils to your valve covers? I mean did you weld studs to your valve covers or did you drill threw them and use bolts? I just bought a set of the powder coated black Fabricated Aluminum ones for my 360 and would hate to have to grind on them. Lol
Wear are you going to mount the Nock sensors? I need to get off my Butt and start working on the wireing harness for mine.
On my valve covers - First I moved the oil fill opening to the center of the cover and welded shut the hole created when I cut it out. Then, I made 8 mounting bars and drilled and tapped them at a spacing that matched the coils and welded them to the valve cover. Also then made 16 standoff tubes from 3/8 stainless fuel line - They're about 9/16" long. Bolts go through the coil heat sink, through the standoff and thread in to the mounting bar. Welds are kinda hidden under the coils.

I ordered a Ford sensor cause it sure looks like it'll fit right on the Jeep housing - we'll see.

Got the O2's fired up and working. Going to start mocking up wiring runs in the car now.

Regards,
Steve
 
On my valve covers - First I moved the oil fill opening to the center of the cover and welded shut the hole created when I cut it out. Then, I made 8 mounting bars and drilled and tapped them at a spacing that matched the coils and welded them to the valve cover. Also then made 16 standoff tubes from 3/8 stainless fuel line - They're about 9/16" long. Bolts go through the coil heat sink, through the standoff and thread in to the mounting bar. Welds are kinda hidden under the coils.

I ordered a Ford sensor cause it sure looks like it'll fit right on the Jeep housing - we'll see.

Got the O2's fired up and working. Going to start mocking up wiring runs in the car now.

Regards,
Steve
Cool thanks for the info. What about the nock sensors? How are you going to mount the TCM? I am going to have to see if I can find one for mine. Or make something
 
Cool thanks for the info. What about the nock sensors? How are you going to mount the TCM? I am going to have to see if I can find one for mine. Or make something
I’m not installing the knock sensors. I’ll turn off the faults. I figured the sensors wouldn’t be calibrated for my blocks knock signature. Plus, I’m running a solid roller cam which could generate false knock retard. I’ll tune it safe and it’ll be fine. It’s an NA motor so a ping every now and then isn’t the end of the world.
 
I’m not installing the knock sensors. I’ll turn off the faults. I figured the sensors wouldn’t be calibrated for my blocks knock signature. Plus, I’m running a solid roller cam which could generate false knock retard. I’ll tune it safe and it’ll be fine. It’s an NA motor so a ping every now and then isn’t the end of the world.
I was asking about the nock sensors because I was unsure wear they could go on my 360 magnum. But thank you for all the info and picks.
 
I think 5V is available at PCM, same place TPS gets 5V.
Yep - I found lots of unused 5V pins on the PCM. I am concerned more about the signal amplitude that would be returned back. I have not really determined what the 411 is expecting.
 
Yep - I found lots of unused 5V pins on the PCM. I am concerned more about the signal amplitude that would be returned back. I have not really determined what the 411 is expecting.
If it is a Hall sensor it might need a pull-up. Typical Hall sensors have an open collector output, that goes low when metal target is present. The PCM, may provide pull-up. With PCM powered check the voltage at sensor input.

Pull-up value 3.3k is typical. The open collector helps with universal applications. The Hall power can be 5V, collector pull-up to 5V, 12V or whatever, usually inder 60V. In interlock applications open collectors can be OR'd together. If bench testing, supply gnd, 5V, pull-up to output. Observe voltage w, w/o target.
 
If it is a Hall sensor it might need a pull-up. Typical Hall sensors have an open collector output, that goes low when metal target is present. The PCM, may provide pull-up. With PCM powered check the voltage at sensor input.

Pull-up value 3.3k is typical. The open collector helps with universal applications. The Hall power can be 5V, collector pull-up to 5V, 12V or whatever, usually inder 60V. In interlock applications open collectors can be OR'd together. If bench testing, supply gnd, 5V, pull-up to output. Observe voltage w, w/o target.
Voltage at the sensor input on the 411 ECU is zero with the ECU powered up. I'm thinking the 411 is going to be expecting a 12V square wave input signal for the cam sensor. There are some posts on a few websites that kinda support that thought but no one has come right out and confirmed it at this point.

The Ford CMP bolted right on the Jeep body as expected and the Ford is indeed a 12V input sensor and generates a 12V square wave (Hall Effect) output to the ECU. I was able to get the Ford connector at Fastman (Thanks Richard) So, I'm pretty sure I'm good to go. I've found no way in HP Tuners to confirm that I have valid Crank & Cam signals. So, I guess if it runs I've got em, if it farts perhaps not.

Regards,
Steve
 
I hope it works for you.

I am a wimp. I only do things things after much bench testing, and simulation. It takes time, but reward is getting in, turning key and driving. I actually enjoy the bench work and programming.
 
I know my Jeep sensor runs on 5V with a pullup.

What made you decide to use the LS computer over something like a megasquirt or microsquirt? I think the price would be simliar after buying an HP tuners license? Just curious it sounds like it is getting close to making noise!
 
I know my Jeep sensor runs on 5V with a pullup.

What made you decide to use the LS computer over something like a megasquirt or microsquirt? I think the price would be simliar after buying an HP tuners license? Just curious it sounds like it is getting close to making noise!
Well,
I was given the 411ECM, Injectors, and Coils as a freebie. Plus I have a reasonable amount of tuning experience with HP tuners on LS1's (credits for GM are $100). So with a junk yard wiring harness for $95, I'm in business. All of the other spending (Intake, Throttle Body, Connector Shells, Pins, etc would be a wash on $$ with an MS.

Nothing wrong with Mega Squirt for sure and I probably would have gone that way (or Holley) in a different circumstance.

Richard at Fast Man EFI has me taken care of on the CMP connector. Turns out, I needed to put a Ford sensor on the Jeep CMP body to get a 12V input & output and Rich has the connector stuff for the Ford CMP sensor.
I should be good to go!
IMG_3117.jpg
 
That is awesome! Years ago there was a guy on Moparts working on setting up an LS1 computer on his big block Challenger. That got me interested and I looked into it some but didn't have any resources really so I went another direction.

EFI rocks I will never go back to a carb.
 
That is awesome! Years ago there was a guy on Moparts working on setting up an LS1 computer on his big block Challenger. That got me interested and I looked into it some but didn't have any resources really so I went another direction.

EFI rocks I will never go back to a carb.
Agree on EFI. I’ve been doing it for years. Started out burning EPROMs and erasing the with UV light tray. This was Tuned Port days. Did a 730 ECM on a BBC in a 67 SS and It worked beautifully. Then I was hooked. Have also done Eddy, Holly,LT1,LS, etc. No MS as of yet.
 
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