Okay, I read the last post, I was hoping you were talking about a near stock rebuild of your original block. With your goals in mind, you’re one step past a stock rebuild. All the suggestions here are really good, but here’s how I would do it. If the bores are good, reuse your stock pistons, basic rehone and re ring, reverse the pistons on the rods, get deck milled to zero. If you need to bore it, sealed power cast flat tops with four valve reliefs, install with notch to rear of block, get the deck milled to zero. It will make a little extra noise but also make extra power , i.e. piston slap. Use your stock heads, have them milled to 60cc chamber volume. Use Fel-Pro Permatorque SD gaskets. This will give you between 9.5-10:1 compression, so plan on premium pump gas. Add hardened exhaust valve seats and 1.88/1.60 valves with some extra chamber cuts during the mandatory three angle valve job. Add in some mild home porting ala’ 318willrun (bowl blending and intake gasket match). Use a Crower 3198 cam & spring kit, an edelbrock basic performer intake (available everywhere used for cheap, and it works!) with an edelbrock AVS2 650. Run a set of Dougs headers with a minimum of 2-1/2 inch dual exhausts with an x pipe. Install a complete FBO Mopar ignition kit. Add in 2.94 gears with a 27-28 inch rear tire. If you want the extra around town to interstate “romp and merge” power, run an a999 lockup torqueflite (2.74 & 1.55 ratios) with a custom converter from PTC or Ultimate. I only recommend this combination because I have a similar setup with 10:1 and a sealed power CS1143r cam (222/232 @ .050, .443/.450 lift, 112 LSA) with headers and 1.78/1.50 valves on a three angle cut. Blows stock size (215/70-14) tires off at will with 2.76 gears, 904 and factory replacement type high stall converter. It will do everything you want it to, have power you can feel just off of idle, and will surprise you with how strong a 318 can run when you do decide to air it out.
