Only for a drag race car. If this is a street car with the intention of having better than stock handling it's just about perfect.
Oh BS. The front suspension racing manual is for drag racing. Pretty much everything it describes is for a drag car, NOT a street car, and some of what it describes would be the WRONG way to set up a street car. I mean seriously, /6 torsion bars, checking the toe pattern at 1" raised suspension so it's the same as through the traps, setting 0 toe to begin with, only checking the rebound toe changes. That's all great for a drag car, but none of it is applicable to a street car.
Zero toe change is also pretty much impossible. That's one of those theoretical deals for designing suspension, it's not something you get in the real world. And not on a street car. Even the graphs they use in the manual aren't realistic. 4" jounce to 4" rebound? Explain how you get that on a car that only has about 5" of total suspension travel.
And the front suspension racing manual doesn't cover what to actually DO about most of those changes.
Mine has +6.5° of caster. It's not possible with stock parts but with aftermarket suspension pieces it's not that hard.
When you run wide, modern tires on the front increasing the caster increases the stability of the car. All aftermarket UCA's have additional positive caster built in. Radial tires need more positive caster. The factory alignment specs are for bias ply tires, and are WRONG for radials.
Most aftermarket tubular UCA's have an additional +2 to +3° of caster built into the geometry for that reason.
