Mopar had 12v at crank (start) which bypasses the ballast resister. Then when the key goes back to run after starting, it goes through the ballast to run on around 8v. You have to make sure you have 12v both at crank and run with the key.
GM HEI Conversion
- Thread starter simman900
- Start date
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Those do sometimes go out with the big cap. Sounds like we're all pretty sure thats what he has. Yes, it IS as simple as putting a 12V keyed source to it.
get one of these. red is 12V, green is tach output.
HEI DISTRIBUTOR 1 PIECE POWER & TACHOMETER PIGTAIL HARNESS
you can put the 12V feed on a toggle switch, OR there are 2 wires on a mopar that need tied together to get a 12V from the key, in crank AND run. Someone can probably remind me what those are, before i am able to find it. Is it the Blue and Brown off the ballast?
get one of these. red is 12V, green is tach output.
HEI DISTRIBUTOR 1 PIECE POWER & TACHOMETER PIGTAIL HARNESS
you can put the 12V feed on a toggle switch, OR there are 2 wires on a mopar that need tied together to get a 12V from the key, in crank AND run. Someone can probably remind me what those are, before i am able to find it. Is it the Blue and Brown off the ballast?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
^^THIS^^ and also, during cranking, the "run" voltage goes dead. The only voltage available is the bypass circuit, these are IGN1 and IGN2. If you don't have a shop manual go to MyMopar and download one. You also should save the aftermarket wiring diagrrams, on same site, which in certain situations are easier to deal with.
simman900
Active Member
The engine came with the big GM HEI distributor with the coil in cap. That’s why I was asking about the those wires. The 2 wires that were plugged into the old distributor I believe plug into the Gm hei. One is hot and the other I think is or was a tach. It does have an after market tach.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
the reason i wanted Johhny's opinion on the matter is because he probably build it (or sold it)
so, go back to post #27 and follow what he said
see post 27.
the red wire is simply 12V in. Needs it in CRANK and RUN. You will have to tie a blue and brown wire together, unless someone already did that for you.
the green is simply tach output.
If you're talking about the purple and green wires that plug into a stock type distributor, those are NOT your source for a 12V.
BLUE AND BROWN off the ballast resistor are power in crank, and run...those again need "Y'd" together and to run to the 12V on the HEI. unless again...someone already did that for an MSD box or something
simman900
Active Member
Well it looks like they had 2 blacks coming off off the ballast. I’m not sure they were even functioning. The old distributor had a brown and orange coming off of it. Thanks for the info on the pigtail.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
the way to test is to put a volt meter on there
check them one at a time
IF the ballast is working as it should, one of those should read 8 volt with the key in "run"
the other should read 12 volt with the key in "crank"
then check the two wires going into the ballast, one should have 12 volt in "run" the other 12 volt in "run"
you could technically grab those two wires going into the ballast resistor,twist them together and run a single wire from there to the distributor
simman900
Active Member
That’s what I will do , thanks.
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