Slant engine prob.

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HakanK

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Hello,

I have a Plymouth Valiant from 1965 with 225 slantsix.

To my problem, I have changed wire harness in the car from "Keep It Clean Wiring", becouse the old one was very bad.
Now when i start the car, it cranks and try to start, have had it sound like it started, but when i release the key, the engine stops.

I dont know much about the car, but iknow it has electronic ignition as i was told by previous owner.
I have changed ballast resistor without any change.
I have spark and fuel and changed vacuum hoses.

Now im out of ideas, do you got anything i could check or try out?

(Added some images that shows some of what i have and the manual to wire system)

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Sounds like the control module box if bad, this is exactly what my cars do when they go bad, they start and die right away.
 
"Engine fires, but won't stay running when the key is let go" usually means a faulty coil resistor (the white ceramic block about 1.5 × 1.5 × 7 cm, visible in your last picture).
 
I dont know if this falls under your same problem. When I rewired my dart i had the same problem but I had an HEI system and no ballast on the car. I had to run a jumper on my ignition switch but i forget which terminals. Ive had no problems since then. The problem was when i released the key to the run position from start it cut power to the coil. I would try the white block dan suggested if that doesnt work ill snap a pic of my ignition switch.
 
"Engine fires, but won't stay running when the key is let go" usually means a faulty coil resistor (the white ceramic block about 1.5 × 1.5 × 7 cm, visible in your last picture).

I have already change coil resistor, have 2 new ones i have tried with no luck.

I dont know if this falls under your same problem. When I rewired my dart i had the same problem but I had an HEI system and no ballast on the car. I had to run a jumper on my ignition switch but i forget which terminals. Ive had no problems since then. The problem was when i released the key to the run position from start it cut power to the coil. I would try the white block dan suggested if that doesnt work ill snap a pic of my ignition switch.

Snap a pic and I could try the same.
 
Hes usually on reallllllllly early morning,looks like hes from sweden.
 
START sends voltage to coil side of ballast, so its a straight shot to the coil-full coil voltage, RUN reroutes 12V voltage to other side of ballast so it has to run through ballast to energize coil at a lower voltage. The hotter the ballast gets, the more it cuts voltage to coil. Here is a quote from another web page describing the ballast resistor in a Gold Wing bike:

"Catastrophic failure of the ballast resistor

This is easy to diagnose. The symptom is a bike that starts easily but dies as soon as you release the starter button. If any of you owned Chrysler cars during the 60s and 70s, you are no doubt familiar with this common problem!"
 
This right here...when I rewired my wagon with a Ron Francis kit I had to wire IGN2 to ING1...works like a champ

Tryed this today, and the only thing it did was make it run the starter on the first click with the key. So did not help me.
 
START sends voltage to coil side of ballast, so its a straight shot to the coil-full coil voltage, RUN reroutes 12V voltage to other side of ballast so it has to run through ballast to energize coil at a lower voltage. The hotter the ballast gets, the more it cuts voltage to coil. Here is a quote from another web page describing the ballast resistor in a Gold Wing bike:

"Catastrophic failure of the ballast resistor

This is easy to diagnose. The symptom is a bike that starts easily but dies as soon as you release the starter button. If any of you owned Chrysler cars during the 60s and 70s, you are no doubt familiar with this common problem!"

Did buy a new ballast resistor and put it in, nothing changed, it still wont start.
 
you got voltage to coil in run? Easy enough, turn it to run and check >6V at coil. must have battery voltage (>12V) to coil on 'start' as its a straight shot. if you dont have either, run a alligator jumper from bat + to coil + and try and start it that way. If it starts, then your wiring is open, grounded or damaged.
 
Please read carefully this is how this works

The ignition switch in a Mopar feeds "ignition run" or IGN1 voltage out through the bulkhead connector to one end of the ballast resistor, and this branches off and feeds the voltage regulator and depending on model/ year a couple other components Normally dark blue

THIS VOLTAGE BY DESIGN goes "dead" during cranking/ start

HOW does it start?

There is another dedicated contact in the switch called IGN2 which is the (usually brown) bypass circuit. This is live ONLY in start and sends full battery voltage to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. THIS IS what causes the car to start. You need to CHECK the coil + with a lamp and see if you have voltage on the coil during cranking.

HOW DOES the electronic ignition get voltage? Power feeds from the coil+ side of the ballast "backwards" through the ballast and to the electronics module connected to the other end. This again, is ONLY during "start.

IF YOU ARE NOT getting battery voltage to the coil during cranking the "functional path" for that power is from igntiion switch.......out on brown IGN2..........through bulkhead connector.........to the coil side of the ballast resistor Could be a bad connection in the bulkhead connector, a bad connection at the ignition switch connector, or a bad ignition switch, or MODIFIED WIRING INCORRECTLY DONE
 
Is the coil known to be good?

If you jump a 12v to the coil, then fire it up... does it run?

Have tried with 2 different coils, crank the engine and I got fuel and spark from both, the engine is starting, but when i release the key it stops everything
 
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