What amp is the alternator?

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Bobacuda

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i have a 67 B’cuda Conv, 8 cyl, auto, no a/c. Alternator has a 2 belt pulley. What amp is the alternator? Can’t find anything on the alternator...in fact, I haven’t found the regulator.
 
Take it to your local parts store that can test it, they can tell you. No pictures, so we can't see what you are working with.
 
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I still have not found the voltage regulator...
Photos of alternator
 
If there are no marking above the charging post, your best bet would be take it & have it tested to find out what the output is. As far as the regulator goes, what year model & body is it? The regulator should be on the firewall, if you don't see it it was probably removed sometime in the past.
 
1. That is the correct style alternator for '67
2. Not so sure if that is the correct pulley for that application. Look in the service manual, there's a page showing the radiator sizes, fan size, pulley ratios. Depending on what crank pulley was used, the alternator would have had a matching pulley. I think there were only 2 or three differnet pulleys.
3. That alternator has some replacement parts in it. I can say that looking at the rear bearing. Hard to know if the stator and rotor are original to it.
You can look here for the stamped information. This will have the p/n, and assembly date stamped into it. That will tell us what 'rating' the alternator originally had.
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Casting dates are earlier than assembly dates. Each 'shield' has that info as well.
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Testing. Not many places will test it in the manner needed to figure out the Chrysler rating.
Chrysler's specs are to test it for load at 1250 rpm, and 15 Volts. Then see if its in within specs listed in the book. Then you can cross reference the spec with the 'rating'.

Voltage regulator mounts to the firewall.
 
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No numbers by the BAT post. On the backside, about 90 degrees down, it looks like “069”, “960”, or GRD. Hard to tell. The ear in the front is marked with some sort of hieroglyphic. See photos
 
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View attachment 1715528664 View attachment 1715528666 No numbers by the BAT post. On the backside, about 90 degrees down, it looks like “069”, “960”, or GRD. Hard to tell. The ear in the front is marked with some sort of hieroglyphic. See photos
I did find a photo of a 67 Barracuda 383, voltage regulator on firewall. Mine did not have one there, or to the best of memory and photos, anywhere. Unless what I thought was a starter solenoid is actually the VR. It is not marked in any useful manner, and it is located toward the front of the engine (near battery tray - see photo - you will need to expand it). No VR on firewall prior to the ballast resistor, and the only possible VR is that cryptic box on the inner fender, with lots of wires (including a heavy red one) connected to it that does not look anything like the VR's I see online and at parts stores.

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Starter relay would have been on the inner fender. As far as the alternator goes, it was probably replaced once upon a time. It most likely a 60 amp unit, but I'm guessing in that.
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Voltage regulator.
 
Somehow the PO was not using a VR. Just another of the little nuggets of Joy he left me.

What do you think the cryptic box by the battery tray with all the wires is?
 
I'm almost positive that it had to have a regulator, otherwise you would cook the battery & electrical system. Did the car run when you purchased it, & if so what did the amp meter show?
 
View attachment 1715528664 View attachment 1715528666 No numbers by the BAT post. On the backside, about 90 degrees down, it looks like “069”, “960”, or GRD. Hard to tell. The ear in the front is marked with some sort of hieroglyphic. See photos
Yea. That case has been sandblasted.

Here's one you can read pretty clearly.
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I think from looking at the back case of yours, that's a '70-'71 and probably has two insulated brushes.
You can use it with the earlier voltage regulator by grounding one of the brushes. If you want it to look 100% correct, at least to the extent we couldn't tell in a photograph, that's another story.

Arrow is pointing to the part of the casing I noticed is different.
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Compare that with the '70-'71 version with both brushes insulated.
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I'd say the only way to know how well yours will perform is to have it load tested.
 
leeme see if I have some pics from carlisle of 383 equiped '67s.

Here's one. ballast resistor, voltage regulator and starter relay (not visible) are all in the standard locations for '67
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Alternator is correct shape, with aftermarket pulley which I hate.
Relay on the right side is for the horns.
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Oh Shoot. You threw me off when you said you found a pic of a 383 Barracuda. That's a small block in th ephot you found, and I see your engine is as well.
LOL.

Getting a voltage regulator is not a big deal. Whether you want original points type or transistorized version, might take a couple tries because some are bad copies (internally) but they're not rare.

More expensive would be a new wiring harness, especially under dash. Check that out. make sure all the connections and wires are there to begin with. Then deal with condition.
 
Car was not running when I got it. As I pulled it all apart, I labeled every wire and bagged every part. No VR. I have all new harnesses to go in, so I will resolve the VR at that time. So, just waiting to get the body back...
 
Well if you can find a shop that will load test it, have them tell you the load (in amps), and voltage at 1250 rpm.
If they give you the amps at other rpms and voltages, great, write that down too.
With the max load and the voltage at 1250, can calculate the power. From that calculate amps at 15 V to where it falls in Chrysler's specs.

For the pulley, thats maybe even more important to be sure its the correct one in that its matched to the crank pulley. If it turns too slow it won't produce much if any power at idle.

Assming all good,' then ground the second brush.
Something like this will work.
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