Fried ECM
Old post I know, but since a resolution was never posted; I'll thro my 2cents in.
One other thing I can add is... after it dies, it will crank with no spark, and spark at the release of the key and fire for a second then die.
1) it will crank with no spark
2) and spark at the release of the key
3) and fire for a second then die.
These are three problems;
As to #1,
see note1 below
as to #2
This is called ; "the one spark test", and confirms the ECU is able to command a spark. It tells you; the ECU and coil are alive,and the case-ground is working; therefore the entire circuit is working, in
"run mode". It does not say anything about the pick-up.
as to #3
If you get more than one spark while cranking, but the sparks quit while cranking after a few;this indicates the entire system is working in
"crank-mode"; but for some reason, one or more items in the system went into hibernation.
As for the coil and it's ballast, and the powersupply system, they all work with points, so must be good.
That leaves just four things;
the pick-up,
the case ground,
the crank circuit,
or a faulty ECU.
As for the pick-up, see Note #1 below
As for the case ground, and Ecu: they passed the one-spark test, so I wouldn't condemn them yet.
note #1
That more or less just leaves the pick up inside the D.
To test it, I usually pull the D out and spin it's driveshaft with the key in run position. But if you don't want to pull the D,for whatever reason, then; you will need to get the pick-up out of the D and stroke the magnetic "pole-piece" with a piece of iron; I use a small screwdriver; key in "run". Every time your iron leaves the magnet it should send one spark. It does not matter in which direction you stroke it. Some pick-ups need a more rapid stroking than others. You are trying to simulate a minimum 300 rpm cranking signal . You cannot stroke too fast.
No multiple sparks means pick-up is dead.
If you do get multiple sparks, then there is a mechanical problem with the reluctor; it might just be too wide a gap,(spec is .008 to .011 using a non-magnetic feeler gauge) or there is not enough iron in it's construction, or it's magnetized. If you pull it off the shaft, take note of which slot is on the roll-pin index; they are marked with arrows as to in which direction it should be rotating in your D. My testing has shown that most pick-ups will spark reliable enough to idle, at no more than .030, and will still spark at .000,lol, ie rubbing.
If you get multiple sparks, and the reluctor is doing it's job; then is it possible the spark is getting lost inside the D? I have seen the Pick-up resistance running and working at between 150 to 350 ohms.
I know some,a lot, or most of this diagnostic, has been posted in preceding posts, and the guys have posted good stuff. This post is a recap, and puts it all on one page, so that if you want to try it again after your points need work, it should be an easy diagnostic. I like Del's test apparatus, and since your junk is now on the bench, using his diagnostic, that should point you in the right direction
My gut feeling;
since the engine quits while running,
and you then get no sparks while cranking;
I think you will find the problem in the pick-up. With a slim chance it could be a power supply interruption.
That's the best I got
When all else fails; check your alternator for an A/C component; you may have, but I doubt it, a blown diode.
