Subframe connectors and stiffeningkit dxf_files ????

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MrTackelberry

MrTackelberry

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Hi all......

I wonder if anyone has dxf or dwg-files for lasercutting subframce connectiors and stiffening kit A-body 67-69 ???
I am about to tear down my car and i am about to make the chassie more stiff for trackracing.


:)
 
MrTackelberry said:
Hi all......

I wonder if anyone has dxf or dwg-files for lasercutting subframce connectiors and stiffening kit A-body 67-69 ???
I am about to tear down my car and i am about to make the chassie more stiff for trackracing.


:)
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Big block dart dot com has DIY instructions. But not dxf or dwg files
 
There really isn't much the laser or water jet cut unless your talking about the kind that you weld to the floor pan like US Car Tool sells.
 
yup, the big block dart is what i followed

simple
cut some 2x3 boxed tube, weld in and run it

subframe-jpg.jpg

(not my drawing, but im sure someone here will claim it)
 
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dano said:
There really isn't much the laser or water jet cut unless your talking about the kind that you weld to the floor pan like US Car Tool sells.
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I want the subframe connector stuck to the floor, no gap in between it and the floorboard.
I want it to be a straight line between the torisonbar crossmember and the framerail that goes in the back of the car.
 
MrTackelberry said:
I want the subframe connector stuck to the floor, no gap in between it and the floorboard.
I want it to be a straight line between the torisonbar crossmember and the framerail that goes in the back of the car.
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Then your best bet is the one from US car tools.
 
rumblefish360 said:
And those still require a lot of fitting work.
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Exactly, there’s so much variance in these cars from factory that even NOS parts have trouble not needing fitting. Which is why DXF or other files for use with a laser or water jet are really a waste of time and money unless you’re gonna mass produce them.
 
My dad and I built the above and they pressed up against the floor, I welded them in a few spots. They work great. Spent like $50 for it all.
 
MrTackelberry said:
I want the subframe connector stuck to the floor, no gap in between it and the floorboard.
I want it to be a straight line between the torisonbar crossmember and the framerail that goes in the back of the car.
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Why?.....I understand the straight line....but why to the (thin) floor?

Not wanting to argue or change your mind...just like to understand what I am missing.
 
HemiDenny said:
Why?.....I understand the straight line....but why to the (thin) floor?

Not wanting to argue or change your mind...just like to understand what I am missing.
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I think some people are under the misconception that by welding it to the floor makes it some how stronger. I think that’s debatable.

now I will say, welding to the floor gives it a much more factory Like look.
 
IMO, the ONLY thing welding to the floor accomplishes is give a place for dirt, water, and eventually corrosion to hide.....unless you figure out how to paint a bare weld on the inside of a box. Add the PIA of installation, thin to thick metal, non straight, bumpy surfaces...and you get a pass from me. Reminds me of what the Late, Great Tom Hoover said about building headers... "everyone should do it once, but no one should have do it more than once"
 
HemiDenny said:
IMO, the ONLY thing welding to the floor accomplishes is give a place for dirt, water, and eventually corrosion to hide.....unless you figure out how to paint a bare weld on the inside of a box. Add the PIA of installation, thin to thick metal, non straight, bumpy surfaces...and you get a pass from me. Reminds me of what the Late, Great Tom Hoover said about building headers... "everyone should do it once, but no one should have do it more than once"
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Agreed. I guess one could attempt to por-15 it before welding? Or use that weld thru etching primer. But either way, the weld points would be the corrosion point for sure.
 
I just installed a set of the above mentioned parts kit. To Hemi Dennys point I did not attach to floorboards for the very same reasons he mentioned plus a few based upon years of drag racing. What I can say merely echos everyone else who puts them in. You are Going to need to modify, cut, slash and cuss to make them fit correctly, if you are looking for a turn key solution this kit is not for you. If you want a reasonable base to start from, due to lack of equipment or material in your shop then they are a potential solution.
 
HemiDenny said:
Why?.....I understand the straight line....but why to the (thin) floor?

Not wanting to argue or change your mind...just like to understand what I am missing.
Click to expand...

It uses the floor horizontal as a sheer plane. It's a decent way to involve a much large structure. It's a bunch of work and a PIA to do it.

I tend use 2x2 or 2x3 tube that is .080-.120 thick. Worked well for years and if you are putting in a bar/cage, tie a bar into the connector or make an outrigger to the rocker to land the main hoop.
 
crackedback said:
It uses the floor horizontal as a sheer plane. It's a decent way to involve a much large structure. It's a bunch of work and a PIA to do it.

I tend use 2x2 or 2x3 tube that is .080-.120 thick. Worked well for years and if you are putting in a bar/cage, tie a bar into the connector or make an outrigger to the rocker to land the main hoop.
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Too bad there isn’t really a good way to test it.

I know one of the Mopar magazines about 10-12 years ago did a test where they took a third gen Charger and welded in some generic DIY subframe connectors, tested it on a skid pad and Auto-x, and then Cut those out and welded the US car tools ones on. I done recall the specifics and I’ll have to try and dig thru the magazine stack to find it, but the results were marginally different at best.
 
20160928_112419_resized.jpg
crackedback said:
It uses the floor horizontal as a sheer plane. It's a decent way to involve a much large structure. It's a bunch of work and a PIA to do it.

I tend use 2x2 or 2x3 tube that is .080-.120 thick. Worked well for years and if you are putting in a bar/cage, tie a bar into the connector or make an outrigger to the rocker to land the main hoop.
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I can see that is the intent....but I think the 40 plus year old sheet metal floor is just a little more structural than tin foil. It is a lot of work attaching to the sheet metal for minimal structural gain.

I keep looking across my shop at the California Flash / Modified Production car. In 1975, it ran 9.40s @ 150 mph plus. The Flash has 1-5/8" od (likely .095 wall ) chromoly round tubing connecting the rear spring hangers to the trans cross-member. Car is 45 years old and has seen it share (3 NHRA Walleys) of manual transmission hard launches (with wide sticky slicks) and brutal power shifts. Everything on the body lines up like brand new.

Simple, cheap, easy to install and the best part........ effective.
 
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HemiDenny said:
I can see that is the intent....but I think the 40 plus year old sheet metal floor is just a little more structural than tin foil. It is a lot of work attaching to the sheet metal for minimal structural gain.

I keep looking across my shop at the California Flash / Modified Production car. In 1975, it ran 9.40s @ 150 mph plus. The Flash has 1-5/8" od (likely .095 wall ) chromoly round tubing connecting the rear spring hangers to the trans cross-member. Car is 45 years old and has seen it share (3 NHRA Walleys) of manual transmission hard launches (with wide sticky slicks) and brutal power shifts. Everything on the body lines up like brand new.

Simple, cheap, easy to install and the best part........ effective.
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Was it one of the cars that got damaged in the wind storm at the Nats? I can’t recall
 
It's a PIA to tie connectors to the floor contours. I don't do it. I like the 2x2 because it doesn't intrude or push hard against the floor pan. The way BBD has it, they are jacked up against the pan in some spots using 2x3 and running them up tight.

Agreed, much easier ways to get the structure/support/strength that you may want
 
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dukeboy_318 said:
Was it one of the cars that got damaged in the wind storm at the Nats? I can’t recall
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yes, one of the 6' outer poles dinged the hood and cracked the top of the snorkel when the tent uprooted.....all fixed along with a fresh Butch Leal 500 cu in Pro stock Hemi, the last Hemi he raced.

ready for action!!!....or the nearest Mopar gathering.
 
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