Fuel hose AN6 or AN8

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n.y.340 dart said:
I ran a blue Holley pump with 6an from cell to reg to carb on my sb stroker. It worked ok. The pump was so loud I couldn’t stand it! So I got a quick fuel 230 pump and return reg. I run 8an from cell to reg and to carb. Plus quick fuel filters. 10an return to cell. That’s what they recommend. Works great no issues. Pump is 10 times quieter! 410 stroker ported w2’s solid roller, and I street it.
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You guys are forgetting , his is a street car to start with .
I built a 406 sbc vega street car, best run was 10:28 , I had a holley pump , 3/8 fuel line to a reg up front , then 3/8 to each end of the carb/850 double pumper, I always reworked any old brass fittings I used.
All the chevy boys advised me to put a bigger fuel line on it , I did , ''no improvent'' . They then said I needed a return type system , I did it , ''no improvement!"
A good fuel system , w/ no sharp bends or corners w/ good venting for the cell or tank , and the right fuel pressure will work '' up to'' a very hard hitting / hi horse power car , if well done .
 
pittsburghracer said:
I never used a return style regulator in 45 years of racing and I’ve been 8.42@160mph. Why do you feel they are needed.
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For fuel boiling.
I had lots of problems with that before i ran a return system. fuel boil just don't happen when you keep sending it back to the fuel tank.

Deadhead system are the least expensive and the shortest life pumps. Return regulated pumps are WAY quit er as well.
I thought long and hard about running the regulator at the pump and returning it back to the tank. then just running a single line to car. But I needed a larger fuel line, ran up to the front anyways.

If i had more room (stock gas tank) it might make more sence.
 
Glad I started this conversation before I ended up buying more parts I realize there’s lots of different opinions on this my car will be mainly a street car see the track a handful of times a season
Why do some of you guys run the regulator on the return side what is the difference
 
It does not matter what size line you want to run you still need a return after the carb and a regulator on the return. You cannot control the feed pressure if you have a open return after the carb. A return regulator is used for this.

A street car needs this more than a race car. I installed the return when I was having flooding issues on restart when hot. The hot vapors from boiling ethanol play games with the needle and seat. The cool constant flow of fuel not being dead ended under pressure at the carburetor means a whole lot. I could not believe how much more crisp my car was when I installed this return. Also tap the key when hot it fires and idles. No clearing the hot fuel out to get the needle working properly.

For a while there I was starting the car with the pump off after the car was warmed up . Then I would turn it on and off until the needle would work properly. and the car would idle.
 
Lol. Ohhhh ok. Damn maybe that’s what’s wrong with my car. No regulator with return line and boiling alcohol. Lol.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Lol. Ohhhh ok. Damn maybe that’s what’s wrong with my car. No regulator with return line and boiling alcohol. Lol.
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Why are you laughing? It's a real problem. **** fuel they are selling these days boils, evaporates, vapor-locks... whatever you want to call it. I could hardly drive my car in the hot weather. Finally, after fooling around with everything else, I re-did the fuel system with an in-tank pump, return regulator at the carb, and -6 feed and return lines. Took care of the fuel problem once and for all, and it always starts with the first twist of the key. If you are driving a track-only car, you probably don't experience the heat-soak you get in stop & go traffic. Maybe you are buying race gas. I don't know, but I think you're living in a different world.
 
So if I run 8 to carb 6 to return regulator back to cell what is A good regulator and pump that’s not going to break the bank
 
F21 said:
So if I run 8 to carb 6 to return regulator back to cell what is A good regulator and pump that’s not going to break the bank
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I have a quickfuel 30-175 pump and an Aeromotive regulator that I could sell you. I have a used one and a brand new one.
Don't remember the number of the regulator.
The pump is set up for 8AN in and out as I recall and the regulator has 1 8AN inlet and 2 6AN outlets. I also have the pieces of 6AN hose that I ran to my carb bowls. They have Jiffy Tite connectors on them. Makes it a lot easier to change jets. PM me for prices...
FuelPump02.jpg
FuelPump03.jpg
Regulator (1).jpg
Regulator (2).jpg
JiffyTite (2).jpg
 
F21 said:
So if I run 8 to carb 6 to return regulator back to cell what is A good regulator and pump that’s not going to break the bank
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IDK...I think you are stepping on your dick. A number 6 line is plenty and you don’t need a return line unless you have an exhaust heated intake manifold. If you do have an exhaust heated intake manifold, block it. Better yet, get a better intake manifold that doesn’t have a heat crossover.
 
Wow that is a nice piece of equipment but overkill for my little 525 HP duster
 
1969cuda said:
If you are running a return line, make it
equal to, or larger than the supply line.
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The only one I have done was a smaller return. Why the Same or bigger for high volume, low pressure application such as this?

JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
The only one I have done was a smaller return. Why the Same or bigger for high volume, low pressure application such as this?

JW
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I have no clue other than the fact that the manufacturer of my regulator says both lines should be the same size. I am running an Aeromotive No. 13351 bypass regulator.
 
1969cuda said:
There would be no, or less restriction to the flow.
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I thought that for an application such as the OP's car the idea of the return was to circulate the fuel and reducing the temps? Not that 500hp is anything to sneeze at but for this application the flow will be without factoring in an equal to size for both lines.... I may have gotten a touch smarter on the subject lol.....

JW
 
Rockin robin not sure how to p.m. yet but how much do you want for those pumps and What is the model number on the regulator
 
SLOPAR72 said:
You have the -6 so there is the return line. -8 for the feed. Since you may second guess yourself on it get it over with. It won't hurt anything (except the checkbook.)

Wish I had run a return line on my last hotrod. Some of the problems I had with fuel would have been corrected....

JW
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The opposite is true. If anything you want the return to be "as large as or larger" than the supply. This is because the return is low pressure. You do not want to cause any back pressure in the return
 
F21 said:
So if I run 8 to carb 6 to return regulator back to cell what is A good regulator and pump that’s not going to break the bank
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I recently upgraded to electric Summit pump and Holley return regulator. Works great and no more issues with heat soak while street driving. The Summit pump has a 1 year warranty. I have an old Holley spare pump in the trunk that I can swap out in 5 minutes if needed since I drive 50 miles to the track.
Summit Racing® Electric Fuel Pumps SUM-G3136-17
Holley Carburetor Bypass Style Fuel Pressure Regulators 12-881
 
yellow rose said:
IDK...I think you are stepping on your dick. A number 6 line is plenty and you don’t need a return line unless you have an exhaust heated intake manifold. If you do have an exhaust heated intake manifold, block it. Better yet, get a better intake manifold that doesn’t have a heat crossover.
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And quit running ethanol type gas , u can het real gasoline about anywhere now , even here .
 
famous bob said:
And quit running ethanol type gas , u can het real gasoline about anywhere now , even here .
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Easy enough to say, but it's all you can get in most states. Only way to buy it here is at VP Fuels "for off road use only" and it is over $4 a gallon. Also only a couple places in the whole state that sell it.
 
69_340_GTS said:
Easy enough to say, but it's all you can get in most states. Only way to buy it here is at VP Fuels "for off road use only" and it is over $4 a gallon. Also only a couple places in the whole state that sell it.
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Thats sucks , must be a democratic state !~-------LOL
 
Don't worry, you won't be able to find ethanol-free gas in your area sometime soon. The federal govt is pushing for 10% ethanol everywhere. The oil companies get some kind of kickbacks from the feds, the more of it they sell. Thank the greenies and the EPA for this, even though it is literally a waste of energy. And yes CT is a Democrat state. They f-up everything they touch.
 
I would use -8 front to rear. It can drop to -6 after the regulator at the carb. -6 is smaller than 3/8" ID. The hose ends are even smaller than the hose depending on whose you buy.

And I would use a better pump. Those little Holleys use 3/8NPT fittings - small IDs again. Or use two of them plumbed parallel on separate switches. Ride around on one, use both when you go racing. Plus you have one to get you home when one breaks.

Using a good pump that makes some line pressure will serve to keep it from boiling or vapor locking.
 
CMcAllister said:
I would use -8 front to rear. It can drop to -6 after the regulator at the carb. -6 is smaller than 3/8" ID. The hose ends are even smaller than the hose depending on whose you buy.

And I would use a better pump. Those little Holleys use 3/8NPT fittings - small IDs again. Or use two of them plumbed parallel on separate switches. Ride around on one, use both when you go racing. Plus you have one to get you home when one breaks.

Using a good pump that makes some line pressure will serve to keep it from boiling or vapor locking.
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EXACTLY WHAT I DID ON MY VEGA , i DROVE IT ON THE STREET A LOT .
 
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