Stock 360 with bolt ons - options

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DodgeyWill

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Hi all, got what I'm 99% sure is a stock 1986 360 with 727 driving an 8.25 rear with 3.23 gears in a 67 dart. It's got an edelbrock avs2 650cfm carb, old msd 6al with hei distributor and dougs ceramic headers with big twin pipes cut at the axles.

Engine seems healthy and it runs well, but I'm looking for a bit more power, what are my options to squeeze some more out of it, say around the 300hp mark?
 
What is the tune? i.e. static and total ignition timing and when. Do you have a wideband O2 you can tune the carb with?
 
What is the tune? i.e. static and total ignition timing and when. Do you have a wideband O2 you can tune the carb with?

Just set my initial to 20 degrees at the weekend. Was showing 35 max. Vacuum at idle was actually just into over run on my vac gauge. Not got a sensor to tune no, would I need a boss in the header for one?
 
if you look it up that was a truck motor in 86 with a whopping 185 HP of course they were chocked for emissions you have opened it up so it can breath pretty good as these are pretty weak I wouldn't expect much but not any where close to being an expert
 
20* maybe too much for such a small cam. Most will recommend a cam change but that come with some work and possibly changing of springs and you'd need to watch the lift as some cams can cause the retainers to hit the guides.
 
Did I miss what you had for a cam?? Sounds like the next piece of the puzzle...
 
Thanks guys, the cam is just stock 360 spec as the rest of the block, idle is dead smooth. Not against changing cam and springs, will I see any power gains with a hotter cam on such low compression or do I need to start looking at pistons or head milling? Would like to avoid pulling the engine, I know I'll get tempted to spend way too much on it!
 
Is this a roller motor?
if hyd flat tappet
you can pick up your dynamic compression by using a cam that is shorter on the seat with a larger opening at say .200
not hard as the stock cam is long and slow and low lift
lunati 700 or 701 is about max without loosing torque
first run a compression check to see if you need a valve job
you need new springs and timing chain anyway, and new valve stem seals
go to any larger cam needs pistons, which help in any case, but a much bigger project, much larger and you need converter and gears, you have to buzz them up which is ok if you are into that
what is the number on the heads
the later heads with headers can use a single pattern cam
 
Thanks guys, the cam is just stock 360 spec as the rest of the block, idle is dead smooth. Not against changing cam and springs, will I see any power gains with a hotter cam on such low compression or do I need to start looking at pistons or head milling? Would like to avoid pulling the engine, I know I'll get tempted to spend way too much on it!
You already have headers and 4bbl. Cam and springs would really help, especially if you choose wisely on the cam specs.
 
A stock 360 with headers and a four barrel is probably already touching 300 HP.
 
like I said cheap Chinese turbo run at 7 psi boost. whu tang war whistle.
 
Thanks all, I am a novice to mopars so appreciate the advice. I'm going to compression test it tonight, if it's good I'll leave the block be and settle for a cam to try and squeeze some more from it since you all think it's worth it. Whilst I'm testing it I'll get all the numbers off the heads and block and check the rockers.

If it's worn I'll have to weigh up my options and I'll start another post for that can of worms!
 
but no need for 278 cam that may be at SAE so say 270 comp degrees
stock is 252 mopar degrees right?
or about 260 comp degrees
he can get 460 lift with 256 comp degrees for dynamic compression and more driveability
and a lot fatter area under the curve for power
several vendors
 
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