Pulleys overlapping?

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My son's WP pulley is at his house. I've got his crank pulley. I can tell you that 7" is way too big for the WP. As I recall it's under 6". I'll see if I can get it from him tonight. I've got the AC pulleys on my 440 so that doesn't help.
 
I'll say it again, every factory 383 - 440 magnum without A/C that I've had my hands on, the water pump pulley will tuck behind the outer crank pulley groove with the correct pulleys. you cannot pull it straight off. I'm speaking from years of experience. it appears to me the balancer isn't where it should be. and yes I have reamed the crank pulley bolt holes out to get all 6 bolts in. that water pump pulley is for sure the correct one.
 
My son's WP pulley is at his house. I've got his crank pulley. I can tell you that 7" is way too big for the WP. As I recall it's under 6". I'll see if I can get it from him tonight. I've got the AC pulleys on my 440 so that doesn't help.
This is my crank pulley. Its 7.5 inches
 
And just in case anyone still thinks the pulleys line up.
That water pump pulley is probably 1/4 inch off compared to the crank pulley groove.
That'd be a belt eater even if a belt did stay on.

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So, what do you suggest I do to align the two pulleys? Something to do with balancer?

Nope.
If that were mine and I wanted a simple solution I would space the water pump pulley out as far as I could without it hitting the pulley in front of it.

I'd bet your alternator pulley would be real close to good after.
A crank to water pump pulley misalignment of 1/4 is a whole lot worse that a alternator being 1/4 off because of how far apart they are.
It gives the belt a chance to correct for small variances over that distance.
 
I put a big block crank pulley on my 340 a few months ago. I hole was off about 1/16 of a inch. I had to oblong the hole but it works fine.
 
Correct me if I'm off a year or two.
71and back had one bolt hole that was not concentric.

72 + on the bolt holes were evenly spaced this is on the crankshaft pulley I'm talking about.

You can take a chainsaw chain file or a rat tail file an oblong one hole to make that pulley work.

If you look at the brand new aluminum pulley sets for Big Blocks and small box you will see they all have one hole that is oblong. That way the pulley fits all years of motors.
 
Correct me if I'm off a year or two.
71and back had one bolt hole that was not concentric.

72 + on the bolt holes were evenly spaced this is on the crankshaft pulley I'm talking about.
I thought the change was for 71 and up but it could be 72 but yes, you have the just of it.
Never could understand why they indexed the pulley.
 
Correct me if I'm off a year or two.
71and back had one bolt hole that was not concentric.

72 + on the bolt holes were evenly spaced this is on the crankshaft pulley I'm talking about.

You can take a chainsaw chain file or a rat tail file an oblong one hole to make that pulley work.

If you look at the brand new aluminum pulley sets for Big Blocks and small box you will see they all have one hole that is oblong. That way the pulley fits all years of motors.
I thought the change was for 71 and up but it could be 72 but yes, you have the just of it.
Never could understand why they indexed the pulley.
I believe the pulley I used was from a 1969 383 motor.
 
I thought the change was for 71 and up but it could be 72 but yes, you have the just of it.
Never could understand why they indexed the pulley.

The reason I thought the break was between 71 and 72 was because 72 went to external balance Motors.
I thought the cast crank motors used the even spacing for the bolt holes
 
Maybe but the 440 didn't go cast til mid 73. The 340 did in mid 72. 72-74 400 4-spd had a forged crank.
 
Maybe but the 440 didn't go cast til mid 73. The 340 did in mid 72. 72-74 400 4-spd had a forged crank.

71 was last year for internal balanced 383 and 72 had the external balanced 340, 360,400s and 6 pac 440s.
I had a 78 400 with a factory forged crank but it was still externally balanced. I think I still have the crank in my garage I think.
 
The reason I thought the break was between 71 and 72 was because 72 went to external balance Motors.
I thought the cast crank motors used the even spacing for the bolt holes
Would that be a big block only thing because you can buy a small block damper with removable weights for internal and external balance.
 
in that pic , the crank pulley looks crooked compared to the water pump pulley possibly giving the illusion it's really far off. those crank pulleys sometimes fit real snug on the balancer and have to be pulled on with the bolts.
were they lined up before removal ??
 
in that pic , the crank pulley looks crooked compared to the water pump pulley possibly giving the illusion it's really far off. those crank pulleys sometimes fit real snug on the balancer and have to be pulled on with the bolts.
were they lined up before removal ??
I just had it pressed on with my hand so there may be some truth to what your saying...perhaps bolting it down tight and placing a small spacer on the WP pulley will do the trick...
I did not pay close attention prior to the rebuild unfortunaely...
 
Finally got my son's pulleys. WP is a little under 2-3/4" deep and about 6-7/8" diameter. Crank pulley is about 3" deep and a little under 6-1/2 diameter. When I pulled his 440 (1970 New Yorker) out of a wrecking yard in 1994 I grabbed the pulleys from a '67 300 without AC. These are those pulleys. I may be able to mount them on my 440 later in the week. I need to pull the radiator back out anyway.

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Shim the water pump pulley , cut the fan spacer off if need be to make up for it , ---no biggee .

Exactly, and one point I'd like to make about shimming a pulley like for a water pump.
Most think shimming is putting washers under the pulley and how hokey that is to do, but that's not the only (at home) way of doing it.
I take a piece of metal the thickness I need and use a 4" grinder with a cutting wheel to get my general shape.
Then I'll use a grinding disc to finish the shape (a circle in this case) and drill it for the pump shaft and bolt holes.
Touch it up with a flap disc, paint it if I feel the need and there ya go, a nice solid and flat spacer.
 
Exactly, and one point I'd like to make about shimming a pulley like for a water pump.
Most think shimming is putting washers under the pulley and how hokey that is to do, but that's not the only (at home) way of doing it.
I take a piece of metal the thickness I need and use a 4" grinder with a cutting wheel to get my general shape.
Then I'll use a grinding disc to finish the shape (a circle in this case) and drill it for the pump shaft and bolt holes.
Touch it up with a flap disc, paint it if I feel the need and there ya go, a nice solid and flat spacer.
I use a hole saw, and a lathe --------------aluminum, got a .062 one on it now if I remember right .
 
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