Please help small to big bolt pattern

-

Jimmy2Times

Active Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Messages
42
Reaction score
27
Location
New Jersey
Hey guys a newbie here, I have found this site very helpful I found a member through here Mark that I had the pleasure of purchasing rebuilt 4 piston KH through. Long story short I do not wanna cut the car up and I am looking for the biggest tire in the back.

I have done a fair amount of research and have been digging around the forum and it seems like you can go a few different ways.

First I just put new pads, rotors, calipers, master, and all new stainless lines up front. Maybe I should have went a different way to achieve BBP but I have seen a few people talking about sending in rotor hub to moser, they list redrill for 90 bucks. Am I correct in thinking this for the fronts.

Rears- I have seen alot of great things on doctor diff I am thinking an offset kit for the leafsprings, rear disc brake kit and BBP axles. Is their important details i am missing here? I also plan on calling Cass as I've heard and talking this through as I've heard he is very helpful. Any suggestions here please let me know.

End goal run 15x4 up front 15x8 with a 275/60/15 radial in the back. 4.5 in backspacing and for the record the wheels I have looking to run are the jegs spikes. From what I have seen people say that is the max size for stock tubs maybe roll the fender lip. Should this in theory work do I have to worry about any front clearance issues with redrilled fronts. Thank you in advance for any knowledge.

Screenshot_20200518-230224_Samsung Internet.jpg


Screenshot_20200518-230159_Samsung Internet.jpg


20180324_183643_resized.jpg
 
Someone with the KH disks may correct me, but I don’t think there’s enough material to redrill the stock SBP KH disk hubs to LBP. If I remember right the hubs aren’t solid or the same thickness in the area the new bolt pattern would fall.

In the front you’d either need to do the Mustang rotor/hub swap to keep the KH set up. Or replace the KH’s with the later 73+ brakes, but that’s a spindle swap and all new brake hardware.
 
Awesome thanks for sharing pics, I called Moser this morning and they still offer the service. They recommend disassembling the hub and rotors and submitting photos. So hopefully fronts are figured out.
 
The bearing spacing for the Mustang conversion seems problematic, from what I have read.
 
With rear disc's and BBP you will widening the rear track on a A-body Spec 8-3/4. Most off the shelf BBP axles use the 2.5" flange to axle spacing commonly used on non-A body 8-3/4's and Mopar Car Dana 60. Discs will also add another 1/8" per side as the disc is thicker than a drum.

I can almost guarantee a 8" wide rim with "0" offset will not clear your outer fender wells rolled or otherwise with the above set up on any 67-up Dart. Lots of guy use 94-2004 Mustang spec wheels because of this. With the same setup above, I run a 17x8 with a 5.25" back spacing. 5.5 would have been better but it clears with a slight fender roll. Plus I have a rear sway. I always suggest you measure your car to be sure this fit your car.

What rear do you have now or are going to use?
 
With rear disc's and BBP you will widening the rear track on a A-body Spec 8-3/4. Most off the shelf BBP axles use the 2.5" flange to axle spacing commonly used on non-A body 8-3/4's and Mopar Car Dana 60. Discs will also add another 1/8" per side as the disc is thicker than a drum.

I can almost guarantee a 8" wide rim with "0" offset will not clear your outer fender wells rolled or otherwise with the above set up on any 67-up Dart. Lots of guy use 94-2004 Mustang spec wheels because of this. With the same setup above, I run a 17x8 with a 5.25" back spacing. 5.5 would have been better but it clears with a slight fender roll. Plus I have a rear sway. I always suggest you measure your car to be sure this fit your car.

What rear do you have now or are going to use?

8 3/4 planning on sticking with this. I have also seen BBP drum kit on Dr Diff I just don't see the point if spending the money and not going disc unless the drum offers more clearance and makes it possible. So the 0 offset of the wheel purposes the problem here not the backspacing along with the new axles flange thickness?

I agree I'd like to measure everything I just also am unsure of what demsions will change when changing axles and converting to discs.
 
Last edited:
Wheel backspacing is the measurement from the back of the rim to the mounting flange. Offset is the placement of the mounting flange in relation to the center of the wheel. Basically two different ways to tell you where the mounting flange is in relation to the wheel. Offset is typically more accurate as it takes the bead thickness out of the equation.

To convert back spacing to offset take the rim width plus 1" (because rims are measure inside the beads this adds 1/2" per bead, this is a close approximation), divide by two then subtract the back spacing. A negative answer is positive offset (flange moved to the outside of the wheel) and a positive answer is negative offset (flange moved to the inside of the wheel). So 8" wide rim is 9" overall divided by 2 is 4.5" . If backspacing is 4.5 you have "0mm" offset. If back spacing is 5" you have a positive offset of 1/2" or +12mm or +13mm (yes this is rounded) since its typically represented in mm. If back spacing is 3" then the offset is 1.5" or -38mm and these would look great on a Butt Rockers Camero.
 
Wheel backspacing is the measurement from the back of the rim to the mounting flange. Offset is the placement of the mounting flange in relation to the center of the wheel. Basically two different ways to tell you where the mounting flange is in relation to the wheel. Offset is typically more accurate as it takes the bead thickness out of the equation.

To convert back spacing to offset take the rim width plus 1" (because rims are measure inside the beads this adds 1/2" per bead, this is a close approximation), divide by two then subtract the back spacing. A negative answer is positive offset (flange moved to the outside of the wheel) and a positive answer is negative offset (flange moved to the inside of the wheel). So 8" wide rim is 9" overall divided by 2 is 4.5" . If backspacing is 4.5 you have "0mm" offset. If back spacing is 5" you have a positive offset of 1/2" or +12mm or +13mm (yes this is rounded) since its typically represented in mm. If back spacing is 3" then the offset is 1.5" or -38mm and these would look great on a Butt Rockers Camero.

Thank you for the post. Guess your not a fan of the wheels, either way doesn't matter if you can run them without id imagine more additional custom work.

So with what I have planned should be looking for a 5.25 or 5.5
 
I like the wheels, they look sweet. They just won't fit with out a narrowed rear and custom axles.
 
I like the wheels, they look sweet. They just won't fit with out a narrowed rear and custom axles.
I'd have to take an inch off each tube and axle in theroy? Does this also affect spring/shock/perch?Or cut and dry shorten reat and custom axles?

I love these wheels and would willing to go through a little extra effort. I plan on dropping the rear during this project anyways and buying axles.

Sorry to keep picking your brain.
 
I'd have to take an inch off each tube and axle in theroy? Does this also affect spring/shock/perch?Or cut and dry shorten reat and custom axles?

I love these wheels and would willing to go through a little extra effort. I plan on dropping the rear during this project anyways and buying axles.

Sorry to keep picking your brain.

If you go narrowed I'd skip cutting the rare A Body housing and use something more common.

Conversely you might be able to buy the 10" wide wheel with a 7.5" back spacing and have them narrowed ~2", I would speak to shop about that to see if these can be narrowed.

Or buy the Weld version.
upload_2020-5-20_12-13-25.png
 
If you go narrowed I'd skip cutting the rare A Body housing and use something more common.

Conversely you might be able to buy the 10" wide wheel with a 7.5" back spacing and have them narrowed ~2", I would speak to shop about that to see if these can be narrowed.

Or buy the Weld version.
View attachment 1715532029

Guess im just playing devils advocate their. Put money into a quality wheel or spend it customizing rear.

Truly appreciate you taking the time to answer so quickly.
 
-
Back
Top