Old Yeller

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Mopar Sam

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Well, here it is...Old Yeller, my summer project, my version of "drag truck".

Old Yeller was my daily driver for several years. It had a little lower end noise in the 318 for about 5 years and finally about 3 years ago, it developed Death Rattle. It has been sitting, waiting on a motor ever since.
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I will be doing a little at a time as time allows.
Plans are a 414 small block. I already have the crank, rods and pistons. Heads (because of almost no budget) will be a rehash of some old used up Procomps.
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The only mods I did before, were front discs (scare bird kit), an M1 dual plane and edelbrock carb (free), and a reverse pattern valvebody. I took a dremel to the dash mounted shifters gate so I could slap stick it. I love that dash mounted shifter!
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I see you've already started weight reduction..... one wiper blade.. :D
 
Looks like someone did a little hand grinding love to the ports. Looks like a fun build.

I would like to do them like your offset rocker deal, but if I start that, I would never get this running. I just can't seem to get as much done in a day as I used to...
 
I would like to do them like your offset rocker deal, but if I start that, I would never get this running. I just can't seem to get as much done in a day as I used to...


Tube the pushrod holes (kiss the tube) and the common wall holes, and a 2.05 valve with a nice 60-45-30-15 valve seat do the needed porting and put them on. Or do the above with 2.02 valves if you already have them and go have fun.
 
Tube the pushrod holes (kiss the tube) and the common wall holes, and a 2.05 valve with a nice 60-45-30-15 valve seat do the needed porting and put them on. Or do the above with 2.02 valves if you already have them and go have fun.

Already tubed (pushrod holes) and 2.05 valves, thinking of going to 2.08s. I need to tube the common wall holes.
 
Tube the pushrod holes (kiss the tube) and the common wall holes, and a 2.05 valve with a nice 60-45-30-15 valve seat do the needed porting and put them on. Or do the above with 2.02 valves if you already have them and go have fun.
Ok colour me blond what does tube the pushrod holes in tale? (Kiss the tube) I’m lost :(
 
Well, here it is...Old Yeller, my summer project, my version of "drag truck".

Old Yeller was my daily driver for several years. It had a little lower end noise in the 318 for about 5 years and finally about 3 years ago, it developed Death Rattle. It has been sitting, waiting on a motor ever since. View attachment 1715532837 View attachment 1715532839

Wish I had that truck and u had a better one ! I know , wish in one hand and -----------------------------
 
Wish I had that truck and u had a better one ! I know , wish in one hand and -----------------------------

A friend of mine, who I have never known to have a job, always seems to find cool old cars and trucks dirt cheap. He is really a Ford guy, so when he showed up with Old Yeller , I knew it was just a matter of time before he found a Ford he liked better. I told him when ever he wanted to sell it to let me know and I would buy it. I gave $750 for it when he decided to sell , he kept the new battery.
 
I want to say, that this thread is also for me to ask a few questions and learn a few things.

Also, the motor will be far from an ideal combination, at least at first...while I have a few good parts, some will have to be what I have on hand from years past. I will have to scrounge and wheel and deal to get some things I need. That is all part of the fun, at least, for me.

Parts I have so far,
2 standard bore 340 blocks, one I already square decked.
4" Eagle forged crank.
Icon flat tops 4.06 bore
Scat H beam rods.
Well used set of Procomp heads.
Rebuilt Comp solid roller lifters, .810 wheel.

Several old intakes, including an Offy tunnel ram pictured above, which is what I would prefer to run.

The only solid roller cam I have here is an old Racer Brown 71R , 274,274 @ .050 .590,.590 lift, 105 lobe sep,
It is on a cast core. I would prefer something in the 250s @ .050 with mid 600s on lift. I will have to see what I can come up with.... Jim at RB said this current cam would be a bit much for a shop truck.

Rockers will probably be 273 Iron ones.

I really wanted to use a 904, but I got a killer deal on a new PTC converter for a 727, so that is what I will use.

That is all I have right now, and this pandemic put a hurt on my finances, I usually hit an outage at a power plant each year and get 84 to 100+ hours a week for a couple of months. Not happening this year...

I am enjoying being home more though!
 
One question I have, I read somewhere that B body headers will fit these trucks, does anybody know if that is true?

All of the truck headers I can find are 1 5/8 tube, except some for Dakotas with 1 3/4 tubes. I wonder if They would fit?

I missed out on a set of W9 headers that were $75 on FB. The shape looked promising, and I am not opposed to making adapters.
Any header suggestions Budget friendly?, Help!!!!
 
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I want to say, that this thread is also for me to ask a few questions and learn a few things.

Also, the motor will be far from an ideal combination, at least at first...while I have a few good parts, some will have to be what I have on hand from years past. I will have to scrounge and wheel and deal to get some things I need. That is all part of the fun, at least, for me.

Parts I have so far,
2 standard bore 340 blocks, one I already square decked.
4" Eagle forged crank.
Icon flat tops 4.06 bore
Scat H beam rods.
Well used set of Procomp heads.
Rebuilt Comp solid roller lifters, .810 wheel.

Several old intakes, including an Offy tunnel ram pictured above, which is what I would prefer to run.

The only solid roller cam I have here is an old Racer Brown 71R , 274,274 @ .050 .590,.590 lift, 105 lobe sep,
It is on a cast core. I would prefer something in the 250s @ .050 with mid 600s on lift. I will have to see what I can come up with.... Jim at RB said this current cam would be a bit much for a shop truck.

Rockers will probably be 273 Iron ones.

I really wanted to use a 904, but I got a killer deal on a new PTC converter for a 727, so that is what I will use.

That is all I have right now, and this pandemic put a hurt on my finances, I usually hit an outage at a power plant each year and get 84 to 100+ hours a week for a couple of months. Not happening this year...

I am enjoying being home more though!


Funny stuff. Last weekend lead69, myself and several other super smart and fun and nice guys did a cam change and intake manifold upgrade for another very cool guy, who was quite disappointed what his truck ran like (56 Chev PU) and I told him when I met him last January that we could do a TR and make it a nice street driver and when you stomp the loud pedal it would be seriously pissed off.

We finally got to it last weekend and it was a smashing success. After the first drive he came back with the adrenaline chill and shakes. It was impressive to say the least.

The credit goes to Jim at Racer Brown for pulling a rabbit out of his hat by grinding a cam for a engine that was not exactly how it should have been built. The CR was a point or so low (only 10.5:1) and the heads were a bit big (some Dart Pro 1’s...I forget the runner size) and the truck is a bit on the heavy side.

But Jim flat killed it. A 279/279 248/248 .648/.648 solid roller on a 108 in at 105 that will idle as low as you want to go (I set it at a grand because I’m not a fan of slow idle speeds), and it pulls from the bottom right to the rev limit (I set it at 7K but it can go up a bit) and is just perfect. Jim just made something not quite what it should be into something the owner is excited about.

The other thing we did was order a custom PTC converter and Tim at PTC also nailed it. A streetable 8 inch case (billet BTW) with an 8 inch stator, which PTC uses I drag week stuff. It’s amazing how well an 8 inch converter drives on the street, and how killer it is when you stomp on it.

So once we got past the fixing of several small issues (and getting the broken damper installer out of the crank...the moron who broke the tool off I the crank shall remain nameless to protect his idiocy) the end result was fantastic.

If it was me, and I were you, I’d have Jim grind something up and I’d get at the least a couple of ProForm 750’s rather than what’s sitting on there. The replaceable brass makes it so you can tune the Holley clone within an gnats hind parts. Yeah, you need to buy the linkage to turn the carbs sideways, but that’s an hour job to set up on the bench and 10 minutes to adjust once the intake is on.

I just can’t say enough about the cam Jim sent, and how much effort he made to do his best to get us a grind that would be what it is.

I also cant say enough about Tim at PTC and the several long conversations we had about what we needed, customer expectations and just getting the converter right. And for the 900 bucks the converter cost, the performance it has...that was cheap money.

Just my .02 and it’s worth even less than you paid for it.
 
Funny stuff. Last weekend lead69, myself and several other super smart and fun and nice guys did a cam change and intake manifold upgrade for another very cool guy, who was quite disappointed what his truck ran like (56 Chev PU) and I told him when I met him last January that we could do a TR and make it a nice street driver and when you stomp the loud pedal it would be seriously pissed off.

We finally got to it last weekend and it was a smashing success. After the first drive he came back with the adrenaline chill and shakes. It was impressive to say the least.

The credit goes to Jim at Racer Brown for pulling a rabbit out of his hat by grinding a cam for a engine that was not exactly how it should have been built. The CR was a point or so low (only 10.5:1) and the heads were a bit big (some Dart Pro 1’s...I forget the runner size) and the truck is a bit on the heavy side.

But Jim flat killed it. A 279/279 248/248 .648/.648 solid roller on a 108 in at 105 that will idle as low as you want to go (I set it at a grand because I’m not a fan of slow idle speeds), and it pulls from the bottom right to the rev limit (I set it at 7K but it can go up a bit) and is just perfect. Jim just made something not quite what it should be into something the owner is excited about.

The other thing we did was order a custom PTC converter and Tim at PTC also nailed it. A streetable 8 inch case (billet BTW) with an 8 inch stator, which PTC uses I drag week stuff. It’s amazing how well an 8 inch converter drives on the street, and how killer it is when you stomp on it.

So once we got past the fixing of several small issues (and getting the broken damper installer out of the crank...the moron who broke the tool off I the crank shall remain nameless to protect his idiocy) the end result was fantastic.

If it was me, and I were you, I’d have Jim grind something up and I’d get at the least a couple of ProForm 750’s rather than what’s sitting on there. The replaceable brass makes it so you can tune the Holley clone within an gnats hind parts. Yeah, you need to buy the linkage to turn the carbs sideways, but that’s an hour job to set up on the bench and 10 minutes to adjust once the intake is on.

I just can’t say enough about the cam Jim sent, and how much effort he made to do his best to get us a grind that would be what it is.

I also cant say enough about Tim at PTC and the several long conversations we had about what we needed, customer expectations and just getting the converter right. And for the 900 bucks the converter cost, the performance it has...that was cheap money.

Just my .02 and it’s worth even less than you paid for it.
The budget build and using what he has just seemed to go clean over your head....
 
If it was me, and I were you, I’d have Jim grind something up and I’d get at the least a couple of ProForm 750’s rather than what’s sitting on there. The replaceable brass makes it so you can tune the Holley clone within an gnats hind parts. Yeah, you need to buy the linkage to turn the carbs sideways, but that’s an hour job to set up on the bench and 10 minutes to adjust once the intake is on.

I also cant say enough about Tim at PTC and the several long conversations we had about what we needed, customer expectations and just getting the converter right. And for the 900 bucks the converter cost, the performance it has...that was cheap money.

When budget allows, Jim is who I was going to call, he already spent 15 or 20 minutes talking to me about the current cam,recommending springs and telling me no more than .012 lash.

I bought a new 8 inch PTC for $350, I will try it out, the guy was quitting racing and never used it.
 
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