Im looking at different headers and notice "race header" on some brands of headers. What other than the tubing size is really the difference? I see some have detachable tubes, but so do some non race headers. Can you run race headers on the street without problems?
Race Headers on a street car.
- Thread starter mopfried
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lilfontleroy
annoyinglilLeroy
horse field pucks and buffalo chips
headers were invented for racing and like a lot of other "meant for racing" things, they work on the street
"race headers" is just a companys wanker way of trying to fancy up their product
yes, some are made better than others, this is a case of you get what you pay for
do some more research but ignore "race", all headers are for "race cars"
What Are Race Headers? Everything You Need to Know
How do exhaust headers work to improve engine performance?
headers were invented for racing and like a lot of other "meant for racing" things, they work on the street
"race headers" is just a companys wanker way of trying to fancy up their product
yes, some are made better than others, this is a case of you get what you pay for
do some more research but ignore "race", all headers are for "race cars"
What Are Race Headers? Everything You Need to Know
How do exhaust headers work to improve engine performance?
What headers are you looking at?
Overlook68
Well-Known Member
Long tubes are typically lower and will cause some issues on driveways or speed bumps. "race" is often larger tubes which come closer to transmission fluid lines, shifter cables, the starter, and oil filter.... in other words "race" will cause other issues. But different brands are different.
Sometimes true... different brands being key there.
What kills me is the typical small block header used for decades that never changed in a meaningful way. The only header other than the one size fits all was Doug’s header at a then very high price which at least didn’t have the ground & speed bump clearance issues and did actually fit very well.
Now there is also tti headers at a fat price, but so worth it in the end. On a small block MoPar in an A body, I’d run the Doug’s or TTI headers if the money allowed it.
If money is tight, run the cheap headers from Summit. There flanges are thicker and so far for me, they fit better. I also like the (IIRC) Hedman “S” bent exhaust pipes bolted to the header. These help make exhaust pipe routing easier and closer together.
Pictured and repositioned for demonstration purposes only on my test engine stand.
What kills me is the typical small block header used for decades that never changed in a meaningful way. The only header other than the one size fits all was Doug’s header at a then very high price which at least didn’t have the ground & speed bump clearance issues and did actually fit very well.
Now there is also tti headers at a fat price, but so worth it in the end. On a small block MoPar in an A body, I’d run the Doug’s or TTI headers if the money allowed it.
If money is tight, run the cheap headers from Summit. There flanges are thicker and so far for me, they fit better. I also like the (IIRC) Hedman “S” bent exhaust pipes bolted to the header. These help make exhaust pipe routing easier and closer together.
Pictured and repositioned for demonstration purposes only on my test engine stand.
If the only thing in your combo that's 'race's is your headers, a BIG NO.
I've run street headers on tow vehicles with great success.
There's a limit to everything...
Headers were created out of a need to 'tune' and replace poor designs. Research that fact, and you'll be better informed.
Getting info only from someone who has had a bad experience, is bad research.
I've run street headers on tow vehicles with great success.
There's a limit to everything...
Headers were created out of a need to 'tune' and replace poor designs. Research that fact, and you'll be better informed.
Getting info only from someone who has had a bad experience, is bad research.
He has to listed his combo yet.
Race only headers often do not have collector flanges to bolt up exhaust.
The fender well headers in my scamp limit the tire size and turning radius. Being in the fender well they also get crap thrown on them from the tires... they are supposed to be “race” headers. For a street car I would want something else.
pishta
I know I'm right....
IIRC race headers are more money, possibly equal length and have larger tubes. the only diff between Hooker 'race' headers for a 67 Dart were the equal length and the X2.5 price. a real race header for a V8 would have a pair of cross over tubes from one bank to another for 2 holes for a more equal pulse scavenge system but no one makes those as none would fit anything short of a midget or tube chassis oval car.
I'm still in the planning phase of a 360 based 426 stroker with W2 iron heads/ 4 speed in a 69 dart. Its not a number matching setup so.... So i i guess i need W2 headers. I see TTi and headman and hooker and others. Some have a tube that goes thru the fender well. Most race headers are 1-7/8" or 2". I was just inquiring about the difference.
justinp61
Well-Known Member
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Correct, that's the way my Hedman Huslers are. They have what is called a slip fit collector. I have a 3 1/2" slip fit collector to a 3" adapter that my exhaust is welded to.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If that’s what you’re doing you need a 2 inch primary, at least a 3.5 inch collector and a collector length of 14-18 inches to start.
Skip the step headers, the crossovers, merge collectors and any other header dujour coming down the web. That stuff requires massive R&D and your entire induction system will not look like anything you might imagine.
Unless you want to reinvent the wheel, a conventional 4-1 header with a quality slip on collector is the best bang for your buck. And a custom cam.
So do decals
That is what i was thinking. I figure 2" would be required. I know i'm gonna need a custom cam, just not sure if it will be flat tappet or roller yet. Still studying and learning...I have always wanted a big small block and have a 340 or 360 block to choose from. I figure the heads and intake will be my limit, but I have the W2 heads and all the related parts. They are ported but i want to redo them to the cam i end up with. I have thought about trick flow heads also.
Tinmannz
Well-Known Member
cawcislo
Well-Known Member
4 EGT sensors and bungs for wideband in all pipes. Guess he really wants to know exactly how each cylinder is working. The neighbours must really love This guy when he fires this beast up in the morning...
pishta
I know I'm right....
His door paint (or lack of it) sure like it when he runs it too. Perhaps he's never ran it? Check that...those door pipes are fake!
famous bob
mopar misfit
MOST ''RACE'' HEADERS DONT HAVE FLANGES ON THEM .
lilfontleroy
annoyinglilLeroy
THANK YOU I THINK SOMEONE ELSE HAS ALREADY POINTED THAT OUT
famous bob
mopar misfit
Yeah , caught that , I got a bad habit of posting before I read the whole thread ------------------but dam , I `m always right !-----LOL
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