Rolls forward in neutral, locks up rolling backwards??

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Installing the front pump is kinda tricky. You may have broke a sealing ring and have it bound up. Or like mentioned above the front drum flopped down and clutches were not aligned when you tightened the pump and have it bound up.
It seemed like it went rather smoothly. I used two lengths of all thread as guides, and slid it in pretty easily. Some very light taps with a rubber mallet to seat it, then ran down the bolts and torqued to spec.

But as bad as it sounds to me, especially after already dropping in the motor, the pump is the only part of the transmission that received attention.
 
Do a search on the intermediate band adjustment location and specs. But that's not going to be it, if you didn't mess with it at all.
 
I think something is locking the front drum; not allowing it to turn at all. On the bench, if I lock down the front band with the adjuster, then the output shaft won't turn backwards; only forwards. If I lock down the rear band with its adjuster; then the output shaft won't turn in it's normal direction; clockwise from the front of the trans.
 
I fear the worst, but you can drop the valve body and check that front drum easy enough. Also could air check it to see if the rings got snagged.
 
Thanks again. I would much rather drop the valve body than pull the damn engine again.
 
Only reason I mention pulling both is because of how much easier it is bolting them together while they’re out of the car. I’ve never dropped a transmission on its own, but I’d have to access the same bolts, so that’s where my head is.
 
OR disconnect the K member and drop it down, then pull the trans that way? But I’d have to get the car pretty high and I don’t have a lift.
 
I’ve been wanting a lift for several years, but a) I have a small garage with a low ceiling and b) I have a post-tensioned slab that I can’t drill into. One day I’ll have a nice dedicated shop!
 
I pulled a many transmissions with jack stands, floor jack and a creeper. But I was much younger.
 
OMG NO. Do the research and save some headache.
I'm gonna pull the valve body and see what I find first. I've been curious to see what's in there anyway...

I pulled a many transmissions with jack stands, floor jack and a creeper. But I was much younger.
When you do it this way do you disconnect the K member and drop the engine as well? I have a hoist, so I can raise the front of the car to make it easier. I'm just wondering how I'll get to the bolts at the top of the bellhousing with the engine and tranny in the car, because while it's doable taking them out, I learned the hard way it's damn near impossible when you're trying to get them back IN.
 
You make it sound so easy. When I dropped the engine in and tried to bolt it to the trans, it was so incredibly tight between the firewall and bell house that I couldn’t believe I got it apart.
 
I fear the worst, but you can drop the valve body and check that front drum easy enough. Also could air check it to see if the rings got snagged.

I have seen the adjustment assy come off and have the band end lug turn up in the case and jamb the front drum solid.
 
Righty; I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff, but I would start by getting the car up high enough so the trans will slide out from under.
Disconnect a battery cable
Crawl under and remove the inspection plate
Remove the 4 converter bolts [turn engine with harmonic balancer bolt]
Push converter back and clamp to prevent the converter from sliding out
Remove the driveshaft
Remove the distributor cap
Mark the position that the rotor points to
Pull the dist. and stuff a rag in there
Remove the starter
Crack the trans to block bolts a little to save the flex socket
Remove the trans linkage and speedo cable
Using a good Jack and a block of wood at the rear of the engine oil pan, put a little tension on the pan
Put a shallow pan under the tailshaft [or drain trans]
Remove the trans crossmember from car
Lower jack some to gain access to the trans to engine bolts with a flex socket, but keep some tension on the oil pan
Using a bunch of 2 x 10's about 2' long stacked under the front of the tranny pan and wedges to make the top board parallel to the pan and touching the pan, and a friend who likes the feeling of ATF sliding between his fingers. The trans should slide back when you remove all the trans to engine bolts.
-----------good luck----------
 
and a friend who likes the feeling of ATF sliding between his fingers
Who doesn't love that??

Thanks, that's a pretty good step-by-step. Luckily, I haven't connected too many things to the engine, so there won't be much to disconnect or remove. There also isn't any fluid in the trans, because I just got done changing the filter and gasket. Should be pretty easy.
 
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