What's the weak link in my 440 build?

sbh126 said
Its been quite a while since I’ve made a post on here as I’ve been stationed in In Japan for the last three and a half years and my Duster has been in government storage. Anyways, I should be back in the states in the next few months and back to working on my car. I’m by no means an engine builder so I’d like to get some opinions on my current build and where improvements can be made to get some more power. I’d really love to get into the low 10’s. The car probably weighs around 3300 lbs and according to the online calculators I’ll need around 650hp.

Current set-up
440 with stock forged crank and reconditioned LY rods, Icon forged pistons, and unmodified stealth heads giving me 10.23:1 compression and .039 quench. Edelbrock RPM intake, Atomic EFI (rated to 620HP), and 2” fenderwell headers to 3.5” collector. MSD Digital 6AL and all MSD ignition components. Currently running a Comp solid roller cam with 110 LSA, 243* duration at .050, .550 lift but using 1.6 rockers so actual lift is around .587 and slightly more duration. 4 speed, 3.55 rear gear, and 26x11 M/T street radials. I’m not sure what kind of power I’m currently making and I’ve never had it to the track with this engine. Runs on 91 octane. With my current cam and heads my calculated dynamic compression is 7.77:1 and 156 cranking PSI.

Future plans
If the Atomic EFI system can’t keep up I’ll switch back to an 850 CFM Holley carb.

I’ve got some weight reduction plans.

I’m thinking about ordering the Trickflow 240 CNC ported heads and switching to a single plane Victor intake. I’m sure this will increase power but I’m concerned it will move my powerband up beyond 6500 RPM above where I’m comfortable spinning it with LY rods. I want to keep the engine somewhat streetable. The head change would give me 10.82 static compression. Calculated Dynamic compression would be 8.2:1 and 168 cranking PSI.

I’ve considered ordering a more aggressive cam but again, I don’t want to have to rev above 6500 in order to take advantage of it.

Is there anything I’m not considering? Is 650 hp even a reasonable goal on 91 octane? Where is my money best spent?

Efi may pick up a few ponies but it's more for reliability also Maybe take a look at trick flows dyno on there 440 they made 620 with a near same cam, there's was hydraulic & .600 lift.
It's probably going to be cheaper to find a couple hundred pounds to remove first. Then go run your set up. To me yours sounds like a mid to high 11's. I might ad if your looking to run pump gas & have fun, & basically smoke 99% of cars on the road your already there. With the bigger cam you'll run out of air with the head & intake.
1 of those change one, change all scenarios & you may need The added compression to run a bigger cam & everything be happy. If you have enough aluminum in your engine compartment & can stay cool you'd be fine @ 11.0:1 The rods if your serious about even 550 hp I personally would oust them for an h-beam. Hope this helps, but to make clear your car sounds like a good street strip set up already. Best money spent would be add some cubic inches that makes everything easier. 512-528-543 but no more on a stock block...thats all just my opinion & stuff in my head I've picked up along the way. Also going low 10s you've gotta have more stuff done to your car then an 11& up car I believe