dodgedifferent2 said

Ok I found my magazine from mopar action with the following information now in checklist form

• 73-76 stock a body pieces
• Tension strut rod bushings changed to urethane
• Moog k7103 problem solver upper control arm bushings
• Gusset upper control arm mount from bracket to rail
• Weld heavy washer to k member around nose of lower control arm stud tube
• Frame connectors
• Gusset upper control arm/shock tower bracket to fender apron
• Gusset steering box mounting bracket to k member
• 74 and up C body tie rods 11/16 bolt in
• Urethane sway bar frame bushings
• Box lower control arm
• 920 torsion bars
• 1 inch sway bar
• Koni shocks on full firm
• 16:1 manual steering box (firm feel)
• Eliminate bump steer in the chassis book

Alignment specs from the green brick 1.5 degrees negative camber
2.5 positive caster
1/16 to 3/32 toe in

Rear end

• De arched ss springs
• Koni shocks and rancho kicker shocks from offroad dodge pickups which controls wheel hop

Brakes

• 76 up 11.75 x 1" rotors
• 73 up drum brake steering knuckles for large wheel bearings
• 73 up big ball joint upper control arms
• Viper caliper from 92 -02
• AR engineering adapters
• 10" x 2.5 drums on rear.

Tires were his number one improvement

• Light weight aluminum 15 x 8 rims
• Tires temp rating of A
• Traction rating AA or A
• No m&s, all season or plus 4 tires
• Treadwear rating the lower the better. Under 100 is a weekend warrior. 100 to 240 good compromise for daily street corner carving. Over 250 soccer mom's minivan or grandmas car.
• Wider tire equals more rubber on road. 225 fits good on dart 40-45 and 15 inch. 225/40/15

Engine is a highly tweaked 340 with w2 heads and I would have to dig deeper for the engine build.

Click to expand...