Know nothing about suspension and steering, should I attempt?

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All good advice here, but I want to comment on safety. If you plunge ahead by yourself, you can be seriously hurt. Follow advice from here step-by-step, then you can do it safely. Good luck.
Thanks Murray, I'm all about safety. My cousin lost her husband last year to a driveway oil change. Truck rolled on him. I never jack it up with less than 2 jack stands in place and always leave the lift in place. I want to keep my day job so I can live to drive another day.
 
All good advice here, but I want to comment on safety. If you plunge ahead by yourself, you can be seriously hurt. Follow advice from here step-by-step, then you can do it safely. Good luck.
My thoughts exactly. Just removing the control arms is a chore and dangerous if you don't know what your doing.
 
Someday when I have a shop or garage with some room I'm gonna have a hydraulic press. And a tire changer and a big ole air compressor, and a.... you get the point lol

I long for the day i have a shop or garage with some room in it too! A tire changer is something I do not long for though :p I'll just bring my wheels and tires to your shop to get them set up.

Someday I hope to have an actual shop too. My garage is so cramped I can't even walk around the front of the car. I dream of having all the tools I need to do these kind of jobs.

A good socket set and wrench set... will do 90% of the work on the car. Ive come to learn/find out that every larger job on these cars needs at least 1 specialty tool

My garage gets cramped too, it has strollers, baby dolls and all kinds of other kid stuff in it.
 
I changed the lower ball joints on my 2005 Ram 1500. It wasn't all that difficult but, I did have some proper tools. What I didn't have was the ball joint press, but I got one from Auto Zone. They actually sell you the press set so you don't have to rush to return it. Then, after you are finished with it, return it for a full refund. The kit comes with a lot of different sizes that you have to mix and match for your particular needs and even some of those may only be close to the right size. The fixture I needed would slip off the edges of the control arm so I put a 4" c-clamp on it to keep everything in place when I cranked down on it.
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I changed the lower ball joints on my 2005 Ram 1500. It wasn't all that difficult but, I did have some proper tools. What I didn't have was the ball joint press, but I got one from Auto Zone. They actually sell you the press set so you don't have to rush to return it. Then, after you are finished with it, return it for a full refund. The kit comes with a lot of different sizes that you have to mix and match for your particular needs and even some of those may only be close to the right size. The fixture I needed would slip off the edges of the control arm so I put a 4" c-clamp on it to keep everything in place when I cranked down on it.View attachment 1715535559 View attachment 1715535561 View attachment 1715535562

I couldn't get my lcas done with this
 
I changed the lower ball joints on my 2005 Ram 1500. It wasn't all that difficult but, I did have some proper tools. What I didn't have was the ball joint press, but I got one from Auto Zone. They actually sell you the press set so you don't have to rush to return it. Then, after you are finished with it, return it for a full refund. The kit comes with a lot of different sizes that you have to mix and match for your particular needs and even some of those may only be close to the right size. The fixture I needed would slip off the edges of the control arm so I put a 4" c-clamp on it to keep everything in place when I cranked down on it.View attachment 1715535559 View attachment 1715535561 View attachment 1715535562
That's the same tool I have it works great for alot of stuff. So far iv done several ball joints, u joints, uca bushings, lca Bushings, and to punch holes in sheet metal
 
The LCA bushings are by far the hardest. I actually took them in to a shop to get done and the shop quoted me more than the cost of a 12ton harbor freight press.... so I am now the proud owner of a press that was able to do the bushings in 20 minutes or so...

Plus, now you have an irreplaceable tool that you can use over and over again if you need it. I've preached buying tools you need for older cars here for years, but people will never listen. It's always "that costs too much for me to use once". Then I think to myself, "why the hell did you even buy an old car?"

At least you listen.
 
Plus, now you have an irreplaceable tool that you can use over and over again if you need it. I've preached buying tools you need for older cars here for years, but people will never listen. It's always "that costs too much for me to use once". Then I think to myself, "why the hell did you even buy an old car?"

At least you listen.
And here's one for the "Law of unintended consequences"- now that you have those tools, that press, etc.; you will never again spend a dime to fill your shop fridge- every time your buddy/neighbor needs to use that press, borrow that dial-back light or that harmonic balancer puller; you get a twelve pack here, a sixer there, a case for the big stuff... look at all the money you just saved!
 
Best investment for doing front ends, no press needed.
Mancini Universal Front Suspension Pro Tool Kit

Eh. It's "ok".

The torsion bar removal tool is a complete waste of money. They don't fit bars larger than 1" very well at all, which means if you upgrade yours it's a paperweight not a tool for future removals. If you are in fact rebuilding the entire suspension, then the easiest thing to do is remove the shocks, break loose the ball joints, remove the strut rods and then loosen the LCA pivot nuts. With that done, you can use a pry bar between the LCA and the K-frame to push the LCA backward, which pushes the torsion bar out the back with the clips removed. I bought a torsion bar tool early on, I sold it after using it once. Using the LCA is a far better method even for hard to remove torsion bars, and there's no chance of damaging the surface of the bar.

The tool for pulling the LCA bushing shells is marginal at best. I tried it when I pulled the shells out of my QA1 tubular LCA's. The supplied bolt stripped immediately without budging the shells one bit. I replaced the supplied bolt with a grade eight bolt, which held out better but still failed to pull the shell even when I was using a 3/8" drive impact to run the thing. I now use a large tap to thread into the outer shell and then press it out. Super easy, and will last forever with that purpose. I bought it off of eBay for about the same as what the LCA tool costs. You need a press, or access to one, to remove the LCA bushing shells. Or at least every time I've done it I've needed a press, the Mancini tool doesn't have the juice.

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The tool for the upper control arm bushings is easily replicated with parts from your local hardware store. Mancini charges like $35 for it, you can replicate it with hardware store parts for about $10, and the pipe and washers I used are heavier duty than the Mancini tool. With this tool you can remove and install the UCA bushings at home. With an electric driver or impact it's super easy, and you won't bend the UCA's like you can if you're not careful with a press.
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You only need one upper ball joint socket, either the one for small or large ball joint sockets. If you upgrade to later spindles and buy new upper control arms then you don't really need one at all. Which is something to factor into the cost of say, a new set of QA1 UCA's. You can subtract the cost of - new upper ball joints, new UCA bushings, the ball joint socket and even the UCA bushing removal tool. And you can get better caster specs with the QA1's too. Maybe eventually you'll still need an upper ball joint socket, but if you buy new UCA's you can put that off a bit.

Same with the ball joint stud removal tools. Handy if you're using rebuildable ball joints, but really, most people buy the stock replacement stuff, which is easier to replace than it is to rebuild. So, kind of a waste of money. It's not that the tools don't work, but most people don't really need them. That's especially true if you're just going to do a single rebuild. Or even a couple. Buy new ball joints, no stud removal tool needed.

So, let's review. This is the contents list of that tool set
  • Torsion bar Remover & Installer - Unnecessary, use the LCA
  • Upper control arm bushing remover & installer - Make it yourself with $10 worth of hardware, or not at all with new UCA's
  • Lower control arm pivot remover - Doesn't work well, probably still need a press to get it done
  • 2 - Upper ball joint socket - A & B/E Body - Only need one for $40, or not at all with new UCA's
  • Lower ball joint stud remover - Don't really need it
  • Upper ball joint stud remover - Don't really need it
That tool set costs $155 from Mancini, plus its Mancini so figure at least another $25 for shipping if I'm being nice, let's just say $180.

You can buy your own HF 12 ton press for $140 at the list price, find yourself a 20% off coupon and it's more like $120.
12 ton H-Frame Industrial Heavy Duty Floor Shop Press

Make your own UCA bushing removal tool for ~$10

Find a 1 3/8 NS-8 tap for LCA bushing shell removal. New they're like $150, but used can be anywhere from $40 to $75. Here's one for about $60. Use it once and sell it, or be the guy everyone goes to for LCA bushing shell removals
Regal 1 3/8"-8 Tap NS HSG H-5 39428U New | eBay

Buy the right upper ball joint socket, ~$40

So, just off that list you've spent $230 and have better tools that will last forever and can be used for lots of other projects, and you're only in an extra $50 or so compared to Mancini's kit. And, if you buy new UCA's you don't even need to spend the extra $50 on your UCA tools. And really, you won't get the LCA's done with that kit, so, you've probably saved a bunch of money because you'd still need a press or access to one to finish the job.
 
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Thanks to everyone who responded. I've been watching some YouTube videos on suspension and it's doable with my current tool set plus a rental from our local auto parts store. We don't have the same parts stores up here in Canada, but they do offer many of the same services. I am going to attempt this, then take it for a professional alignment.

Just to add some more detail why I want to do this. The car has been off the road since 1984. The PO told me he bought it from a guy who had to finally give up on the restoration, he apparently rebuilt the engine, transmission, had all the body work and paint done. We bought it non-running. The PO hadn't had time to put any work into it. My son and I spent the last 18 months searching for parts and asking for plenty of help here on FABO, thanks again to everyone for getting us to the point where we could actually drive it. Now we're shaking out the hidden things you can't see from a visual inspection. It's running great and making enough power to howl the tires at the lights. Last night we decided to leave the neighborhood and try it at highway speed. Not so good at 60MPH, the hood started shaking and it seemed like it all wanted to come apart. I think the 46 year-old suspension is a major part of that, but I'm also wondering if the missing fender braces play a part here too? How critical are these braces to the handling of the car?
 
Have you replaced the tires in getting it ready for the road? If you haven't, that shake at speed could be flat spotted tires. If they haven't been replaced and spent any significant time sitting around it could mostly be a tire issue.

The fender braces, the ones that go from the firewall/cowl to the fenders, do help with that a little. Which is why the factory added them on the later cars. But what you're describing sounds like an issue with the tires/alignment/suspension, with the hood shake possibly exaggerated a little by the missing braces.
 
I just rebuilt the front end on my 64 wagon. I went with QA1 upper and lower arms, as I did not want to deal with pressing the bushings out and in. Plus, I added the benefits of tubular control arms. I also added QA1 adjustable strut rods, PST 1.03 Torsion Bars. Moog lower ball joints and Proforge 11/16 inner/outer tie rod ends with solid adjusters. I know this may be over kill for a slant 6 64 Dart Wagon. But it should ride well, be fun to drive and be trouble for years to come.

Having never done this sort of work before, it wasn't overly difficult. It will get an alignment next week. I say do it! Take your time and learn a new skill.
 
Yeah the tires are on the list. The date code says they were made in 2003, they look brand new but I don't trust them being 17 years old now. Probably shouldn't have it on the highway, but we couldn't resist.
 
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