Know nothing about suspension and steering, should I attempt?
Eh. It's "ok".
The torsion bar removal tool is a complete waste of money. They don't fit bars larger than 1" very well at all, which means if you upgrade yours it's a paperweight not a tool for future removals. If you are in fact rebuilding the entire suspension, then the easiest thing to do is remove the shocks, break loose the ball joints, remove the strut rods and then loosen the LCA pivot nuts. With that done, you can use a pry bar between the LCA and the K-frame to push the LCA backward, which pushes the torsion bar out the back with the clips removed. I bought a torsion bar tool early on, I sold it after using it once. Using the LCA is a far better method even for hard to remove torsion bars, and there's no chance of damaging the surface of the bar.
The tool for pulling the LCA bushing shells is marginal at best. I tried it when I pulled the shells out of my QA1 tubular LCA's. The supplied bolt stripped immediately without budging the shells one bit. I replaced the supplied bolt with a grade eight bolt, which held out better but still failed to pull the shell even when I was using a 3/8" drive impact to run the thing. I now use a large tap to thread into the outer shell and then press it out. Super easy, and will last forever with that purpose. I bought it off of eBay for about the same as what the LCA tool costs. You need a press, or access to one, to remove the LCA bushing shells. Or at least every time I've done it I've needed a press, the Mancini tool doesn't have the juice.
The tool for the upper control arm bushings is easily replicated with parts from your local hardware store. Mancini charges like $35 for it, you can replicate it with hardware store parts for about $10, and the pipe and washers I used are heavier duty than the Mancini tool. With this tool you can remove and install the UCA bushings at home. With an electric driver or impact it's super easy, and you won't bend the UCA's like you can if you're not careful with a press.
You only need one upper ball joint socket, either the one for small or large ball joint sockets. If you upgrade to later spindles and buy new upper control arms then you don't really need one at all. Which is something to factor into the cost of say, a new set of QA1 UCA's. You can subtract the cost of - new upper ball joints, new UCA bushings, the ball joint socket and even the UCA bushing removal tool. And you can get better caster specs with the QA1's too. Maybe eventually you'll still need an upper ball joint socket, but if you buy new UCA's you can put that off a bit.
Same with the ball joint stud removal tools. Handy if you're using rebuildable ball joints, but really, most people buy the stock replacement stuff, which is easier to replace than it is to rebuild. So, kind of a waste of money. It's not that the tools don't work, but most people don't really need them. That's especially true if you're just going to do a single rebuild. Or even a couple. Buy new ball joints, no stud removal tool needed.
So, let's review. This is the contents list of that tool set
You can buy your own HF 12 ton press for $140 at the list price, find yourself a 20% off coupon and it's more like $120.
12 ton H-Frame Industrial Heavy Duty Floor Shop Press
Make your own UCA bushing removal tool for ~$10
Find a 1 3/8 NS-8 tap for LCA bushing shell removal. New they're like $150, but used can be anywhere from $40 to $75. Here's one for about $60. Use it once and sell it, or be the guy everyone goes to for LCA bushing shell removals
Regal 1 3/8"-8 Tap NS HSG H-5 39428U New | eBay
Buy the right upper ball joint socket, ~$40
So, just off that list you've spent $230 and have better tools that will last forever and can be used for lots of other projects, and you're only in an extra $50 or so compared to Mancini's kit. And, if you buy new UCA's you don't even need to spend the extra $50 on your UCA tools. And really, you won't get the LCA's done with that kit, so, you've probably saved a bunch of money because you'd still need a press or access to one to finish the job.
Eh. It's "ok".
The torsion bar removal tool is a complete waste of money. They don't fit bars larger than 1" very well at all, which means if you upgrade yours it's a paperweight not a tool for future removals. If you are in fact rebuilding the entire suspension, then the easiest thing to do is remove the shocks, break loose the ball joints, remove the strut rods and then loosen the LCA pivot nuts. With that done, you can use a pry bar between the LCA and the K-frame to push the LCA backward, which pushes the torsion bar out the back with the clips removed. I bought a torsion bar tool early on, I sold it after using it once. Using the LCA is a far better method even for hard to remove torsion bars, and there's no chance of damaging the surface of the bar.
The tool for pulling the LCA bushing shells is marginal at best. I tried it when I pulled the shells out of my QA1 tubular LCA's. The supplied bolt stripped immediately without budging the shells one bit. I replaced the supplied bolt with a grade eight bolt, which held out better but still failed to pull the shell even when I was using a 3/8" drive impact to run the thing. I now use a large tap to thread into the outer shell and then press it out. Super easy, and will last forever with that purpose. I bought it off of eBay for about the same as what the LCA tool costs. You need a press, or access to one, to remove the LCA bushing shells. Or at least every time I've done it I've needed a press, the Mancini tool doesn't have the juice.
The tool for the upper control arm bushings is easily replicated with parts from your local hardware store. Mancini charges like $35 for it, you can replicate it with hardware store parts for about $10, and the pipe and washers I used are heavier duty than the Mancini tool. With this tool you can remove and install the UCA bushings at home. With an electric driver or impact it's super easy, and you won't bend the UCA's like you can if you're not careful with a press.
You only need one upper ball joint socket, either the one for small or large ball joint sockets. If you upgrade to later spindles and buy new upper control arms then you don't really need one at all. Which is something to factor into the cost of say, a new set of QA1 UCA's. You can subtract the cost of - new upper ball joints, new UCA bushings, the ball joint socket and even the UCA bushing removal tool. And you can get better caster specs with the QA1's too. Maybe eventually you'll still need an upper ball joint socket, but if you buy new UCA's you can put that off a bit.
Same with the ball joint stud removal tools. Handy if you're using rebuildable ball joints, but really, most people buy the stock replacement stuff, which is easier to replace than it is to rebuild. So, kind of a waste of money. It's not that the tools don't work, but most people don't really need them. That's especially true if you're just going to do a single rebuild. Or even a couple. Buy new ball joints, no stud removal tool needed.
So, let's review. This is the contents list of that tool set
- Torsion bar Remover & Installer - Unnecessary, use the LCA
- Upper control arm bushing remover & installer - Make it yourself with $10 worth of hardware, or not at all with new UCA's
- Lower control arm pivot remover - Doesn't work well, probably still need a press to get it done
- 2 - Upper ball joint socket - A & B/E Body - Only need one for $40, or not at all with new UCA's
- Lower ball joint stud remover - Don't really need it
- Upper ball joint stud remover - Don't really need it
You can buy your own HF 12 ton press for $140 at the list price, find yourself a 20% off coupon and it's more like $120.
12 ton H-Frame Industrial Heavy Duty Floor Shop Press
Make your own UCA bushing removal tool for ~$10
Find a 1 3/8 NS-8 tap for LCA bushing shell removal. New they're like $150, but used can be anywhere from $40 to $75. Here's one for about $60. Use it once and sell it, or be the guy everyone goes to for LCA bushing shell removals
Regal 1 3/8"-8 Tap NS HSG H-5 39428U New | eBay
Buy the right upper ball joint socket, ~$40
So, just off that list you've spent $230 and have better tools that will last forever and can be used for lots of other projects, and you're only in an extra $50 or so compared to Mancini's kit. And, if you buy new UCA's you don't even need to spend the extra $50 on your UCA tools. And really, you won't get the LCA's done with that kit, so, you've probably saved a bunch of money because you'd still need a press or access to one to finish the job.
