Complete Manifold-Back Exhaust: Accurate vs TTi

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Dodge72 said:
After fighting with a universal kit and trying to make other things work, I'm throwing in the towel. I want my car driving and I don't want to mess with exhaust again. Main goal? To have it fit well the first time with no cutting or modifications. I'd rather not spend the summer on the ground on my back lol.

1972 Dodge Dart. 360 mild small block with 68-70 HP 340 Manifolds. 904 trans and 8 1/4 rear. Stock spring location. An enjoyable cruiser, not looking for every inch of HP and torque.

I'm debating in between Accurate's system and TTI's full exhaust setup. I've not heard one bad thing about Accurate and their product. I've also heard very good things about TTI products (mostly headers) as well. From what I can see, these are the main differences:

Accurate: 2.25" Compression bent exhaust in 14 ga. aluminized steel.
TTI: 2.50" Mandrel bent in 16 ga. aluminized steel.

Accurate: Comes with their repro stainless steel mufflers. Stock sound.
TTI: Comes with Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. Not stock lol.

Accurate: Straight dual exhaust.
TTI: H-Pipe option.

Both: Turn-down tailpipes. All hardware is included.

Accurate: $967 + shipping
TTI: $710 + shipping

The thing is want most is for the system to fit perfect with none to very minor trimming. Possibly splitting hairs between two good companies but I just have not heard much on TTI's full manifold exhaust kits, so any experiences are helpful. Thank you for reading this wordy post!
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I have a 1970 Dart Swinger 318 with an Accurate dual system on it. I absolutely love it! A bunch of my buddies had Accurates on all their cars which is why I did it. They make the best hands down. I looked at TTI just for curiosity and on a bodies they say you have to notch part of the bellhousing or do something with the shift linkage (I don't remember which) for clearance, which is a load of BS. They just don't know how to make a system or they're lazy
 
I have both and feel TTI is a higher quality system by far. If you want a resto correct exhaust accurate is not it.
 
where does the accurate system differ from stock specs? I thought they were original appearing right down to the dents in the mufflers?
 
ir3333 said:
where does the accurate system differ from stock specs? I thought they were original appearing right down to the dents in the mufflers?
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The 75% original system on my 68 383 gts was much different than the system I purchased (in person). IMO it is muffler shop quality with chinesium hardware. It's not a bad system but over priced. Just one guy's opinion.
 
340doc said:
@Dodge72. Any updates on the TTI exhaust?
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Yes! I may make a new thread reviewing the install and making it complete with pics and a video. Overall I'm super happy with it, I didn't need to modify much of anything and the pipes fit like a dream. After work I'll post it up here!
 
Dodge72 said:
Yes! I may make a new thread reviewing the install and making it complete with pics and a video. Overall I'm super happy with it, I didn't need to modify much of anything and the pipes fit like a dream. After work I'll post it up here!
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Good to hear your install went well, looking forward to your post!
 
Jeremiah said:
The 75% original system on my 68 383 gts was much different than the system I purchased (in person). IMO it is muffler shop quality with chinesium hardware. It's not a bad system but over priced. Just one guy's opinion.
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How about posting a few pictures of that original 75% exhaust System you removed? The factory 1968 H code exhaust system was a one year only exhaust system that was pretty restrictive. Had about 34” of 2-1/4” pipe up front and the balance of the system in 2”. And then exiting through 1-5/8” chrome exhaust tips. 1969 exhaust systems were better flowing upping the pipe size up front and partially increasing the tailpipe size to 2-1/4” and 2” back sections but still retaining the 1-5/8” chrome tips. But the pictures will be educational showing how crude the original factory exhaust was fabricated.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
I have full TTI exhaust on both of my darts. One is H pipe, one X pipe. Both are connected to stock manifolds. When you order you will need to provide your manifold casting numbers.
Everything fits awesome but you will need to do a little work if your putting exhaust tips on. Only other thing worth noting is the shift linkage will hit so it needs some modding. Flipping the linkage over works in most cases. Also, if your running original style kickdown you need to modify the Linkage where it connects to the bell housing. Its very easy to do and they provide instructions. The KD mod may only apply to the 3 pc kickdown, I cant remember.
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Could you detail your tailpipes. Are you using factory style tips? If so did you have to cut off turn downs? TTI does not seem to offer tailpipes made for factory tips as used on my 1970 Dart Swinger 340.
Also you state you have both H and X pipe, What is the sound difference ?????
 
Shig said:
Could you detail your tailpipes. Are you using factory style tips? If so did you have to cut off turn downs? TTI does not seem to offer tailpipes made for factory tips as used on my 1970 Dart Swinger 340.
Also you state you have both H and X pipe, What is the sound difference ?????
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If you use exhaust tips on the TTI system you need to cut off the turn downs. On my swinger I cut the pipe back where the over the axle starts to go straight. Added in a piece of straight stainless pipe (from summit) and then installed my tips. If your looking at the car from the side all you can see is the stainless (tips are also stainless). Turned out really good.
Summit sells some really nice stainless band clamps, I highly recommend them anywhere that your not welding.
 
I don't think anybody makes the one year only 70 Dart 340 exhaust tips with oversized inlet pipes. You used to be able to get them but the small company went out of business. I've been trying to get Accurate to make them for years without success. In the old days - 1980s - we used to put a piece of exhaust pipe that matches the rest of the system over the little inlet of a factory tip, mark the tip, cut off the tiny inlet and weld the pipe to the tip. if you wanted it removable, you used a stub of pipe that had an ID the same size as the tailpipe OD so it could be slipped inside and clamped.
 
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