Thoughts on this car for a project with my pops

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NoHndlbrsRqrd

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Howdy all,

Just joined, though have been reading here a lot over the last couple weeks. Long story short, my pops is just retiring and he picked up a really nice 66 Barracuda that we are going to restore together. Awesome.

It has me thinking that I will get one too, and do a slower build over time, but ultimately we have two. We will start with the one my pops got since it is pretty clean.

My question today is regarding a second one I am looking at. I am curious how rare it might be, and if there are any red flags I should look at before taking it on. I have some experience, and am excited to learn more, but there are always those things that are non-starters.

The good:
  • 66 Barracuda 273 w/ 3 sp auto column shift
  • Has pink slip
  • Body and engine vins match
  • Glass is good
  • Available - bird in the hand so to speak
The bad:
  • There is some rust I can see from the pictures
  • Some dings here and there
  • Clearly not all panels are original
  • Interior needs to be redone
  • Engine condition is unknown
Since we are starting restoring a different clean one, I am not against taking something down all the way and replacing panels and things that need to be for the second car. I guess what I mean is I don't assume it would be a quick project, I'm just interested in if it is a crazy one.

Any insight y'all could share on:
  • If this is a rare one
  • What should I offer for it
  • If the rust is too much to clean/fix
  • Big red flags to look for
Depending on what I learn I'll decide on whether to go for it and whether to restore the original engine vs swapping in a different one.

I'm going to look at it on Saturday, so if there is specific things to check I can get pictures then. I've attached the pictures I have so far.
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IMG_1821.jpg


Thanks everyone, and I hope to chat with y'all further as these projects with my pops proceed.

Best,

-Dan
 
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Hey Dan, great to hear you and your pops are going to start a project together. I know you will get a ton of great advice here. From my own personal experience rust is the biggest factor. Once you start cutting into it and discovering more and more your pocketbook needs to be deeper and deeper and the timeline gets longer and longer. I would say this car you’re looking at based on the panels and the way it looks I would probably not spend any more than $500 on it. I bought a 65 dart GT for $700 that was complete. I was able to get it running after doing a few mechanical items. However, I’ve also sunk a ton of money into it related to the engine, rust work, interior work, transmission work. I am definitely willing to do metal repair but it is not fun. If there’s one thing I could change between the dart and the super bee I bought it would be to find a solid car. I would much rather find a completely solid rolling body and have to replace everything mechanical on it then to do any kind of rust work or structural repair. Just my two cents. I wish you the best of luck and which ever way you go you’ll have a great time working with your dad.
 
Find the best and most complete project car as possible.

You will have more fun than $$ can represent, and..... they ain't hemi ( $$$$$) cars!!
 
Welcome to the site! Glad you and your Dad are going on a fun adventure. The car in the picture is definitely fixable, especially if the underneath is solid. Price is everything, it has to match the car in question. If you want a project, then it may well be what you are looking for. Sometimes the trip is more fun than the destination, if you know what I mean.
 
Great advice from @Tad .

As far as I know, you cannot buy quarters...all the work has to be hand done. If you like, and are good at, bodywork then go for it. If you don't want to get into it, then keep looking.

The biggest things to look for are
1. Rust, especially frame.
2. How complete is it. For example. Bumpers, any and all trim is getting difficult to find.

Mechanically and electrically these are fairly simple cars.

Have fun, sounds like you and your dad are on off on a fantastic adventure!!
 
Hey thanks a ton for the insight. It comes down to a fun thing to do with pops, so no matter what I am sure it will be successful. The one he got is going to be a ton of fun. 66 4 sp previously swapped to a 318. Now I want to find one too!

Tad those pictures are pretty neat, and I appreciate you taking the time to share.

And thanks Barbee for your two cents too.

Darn rust. Doing mechanical is way more fun as you both mentioned, but the allure of getting a body for cheap is of course tempting since it saves more money for the fun parts.

Is the fact that it is body/engine vin matching anything special?
 
318willrun, fortunately, it is about the trip. In the past I tried to work on my daily driver...what a nightmare that was, but good lessons in hindsight.

66fyssh, interesting notes about how hard it is to find panels and trim. I haven't been able to see underneath to check the frame and that is a big question mark.

Warm reception all, I'm looking forward to the adventure.
 
Hey thanks a ton for the insight. It comes down to a fun thing to do with pops, so no matter what I am sure it will be successful. The one he got is going to be a ton of fun. 66 4 sp previously swapped to a 318. Now I want to find one too!

Tad those pictures are pretty neat, and I appreciate you taking the time to share.

And thanks Barbee for your two cents too.

Darn rust. Doing mechanical is way more fun as you both mentioned, but the allure of getting a body for cheap is of course tempting since it saves more money for the fun parts.

Is the fact that it is body/engine vin matching anything special?
I don’t think matching numbers really makes a difference on that car specifically. Even on my super B which is complete and numbers matching everywhere I’ve had people say, oh you have a basic Super bee. the word “rare“ I think really only matters these days if you have a complete original Daytona, some sort of one off coronet or charger hemi or something like that. Maybe a mod top barracuda. Unfortunately the fad of restoring classic cars has increase the prices. All of the shows we watch have also caused the market to increase.
 
318willrun, fortunately, it is about the trip. In the past I tried to work on my daily driver...what a nightmare that was, but good lessons in hindsight.

66fyssh, interesting notes about how hard it is to find panels and trim. I haven't been able to see underneath to check the frame and that is a big question mark.

Warm reception all, I'm looking forward to the adventure.
That is a good thing to think about as far as the trim goes. I know 64, 65, and 66 had one off designs. Most of the trim and even weatherstripping for my 65 dart is outrageously expensive if you can find it. That’s one thing I would look at as well.
 
A good way to figure out about projects is check all the vendors to see what is available be it sheetmetal, interior and trim, etc. and then look at the project in question and see whats what!! Does it require quarter metal? Any repop panels available? Maybe limited patches NO quarters?.. Can you make them. Will you PAY someone to make them? all for example.
But a friend once told me, he loves buying projects that need all kinds of trim and parts and pieces, he loves the hunt, and buying and getting stuff in the mail all the time!!!!
If you see rust, you WILL find more later. I love cutting and fabbing metal panels, I love trying to learn and devolope some skill. I rather fix some rust than deal with a beat up bent up car.
And oh yea, WELCOME!
 
66 is a 1 year only front clip (and rear quarters to boot). parts are getting scarce, best source is here. Motor is the easiest part. Interior is probably hardest. If interior is complete, then you can paint/polish/replate most anything. rust spots to consider are back of front fenders, behind rear wheels, at base of A pillars, cowl and edge of trunk for some reason. Body work and transmissions are my weak point, least experience of anything. But mechanicals are just like legos: build/destroy/build. You probably picked the most difficult (availability wise) model year to restore, but maybe it picked you?
 
Welcome to FABO from SoCal!
One thing I found interesting from your pics is the chrome trim over the top of the car just at the front of the C-pillar and the apparent difference in paint condition of both sides of the trim. It makes me wonder if maybe this car had a partial vinyl top at one time.

1966 Plymouth Barracuda - Exclusive Photos - Mopar Muscle Magazine

This might be a consideration if you're planning a 'factory resto' vs. a 'restomod'. I don't know how many were built with a partial vinyl top but others may know and chime in.
Good luck with your project(s) no matter what you decide.
 
I'm looking at your location. There are some rust free fixer uppers out your way. Here in New England. these cars get rusted. My hardtop looked ok when I started it but found so much more. I see some nice rust free project out your way. May be your best bet.
Welcome and enjoy your new project together.
 
Things to look for:
Floor pans- solid, or need to be replaced?
Trunk pan- spare tire well especially.
Rocker panels- that chrome rocker trim can hide a lot.
Torsion bar crossmember- solid or rusted out around the torsion bar anchors?
Frame- go over this front to back. Known areas of concern: area where the upper control arms attach to the frame- this area collects a lot of debris and is known to rot out. Leaf spring mounts- area of the frame where the rear leaf springs mount to the frame, fatigue/stress and rust can be issues.
Quarter panels- how extensive is the rust? What condition are the inner structures in (drop offs, trunk extensions, etc.)? Remember, the rust you can see is probably only half of what you actually have.
How complete is the trim? The interior? A lot of the time, it's the little odds and ends that are the biggest problem to find; and can get surprisingly expensive when you do find them.
And more...

Pros:
It already has a V8, so all the V8 specific parts are already there: motor mounts, center link, exhaust manifolds, throttle linkage, kickdown linkage, possibly an 8 3/4 rear end, 10" drum brakes (or optional front discs), and if it's a Formula S (didn't see the emblems, but those could have disappeared with the fender replacement) you may have a front sway bar, a 4 bbl. "Commando" motor, heavier torsion bars/ rear leaves, etc.
Rarity? Depends on your definition of "rare"... All A bodies could be considered rare nowadays; but a car like this one was not all that uncommon in it's day.
If I'm seeing it right, it has the trim and remnants of a partial or "targa" type vinyl top- I don't see a lot of those...

Keep a tally of what you'll need to find/buy/replace as you look it over, just to get it solid and complete. Modifications and rebuilds are on you- you just have to figure what it'll take to get it to the a solid base. Then make an offer you're comfortable with. Or walk away if you're not comfortable with it. Like Barbee said- "These ain't Hemi cars!" (despite what the seller might think).

Best of luck with your project(s), and welcome to the site! :welcome:
 
Tad, I have noticed the same thing about the car shows and the fad increasing prices. Part of the reason I wanted to check before writing this one off as too rusty since these cars are new territory for me. Good to know it is safe to consider the car as-is without wondering if it is some forgotten rarity that I should have bought.

Barbbee, good advice. I'm going to make a list of things such as panels, trim, etc that yourself, Tad, and other have mentioned to check, and cross that list to the things I see that need work when I look at the car in person. And thanks for the welcome!

Pishta, appreciate those points. I'll specifically look at those spots you mentioned. Who knows, it could have picked me. It has all happened all of a sudden when my dad found his, and has been snowballing from there.

I can honestly say that I will be adding a lot of skills no matter what ends up happening, but I love learning so that’s not a bad thing.
 
Kendog, that is a pro for California cars. I lived in AZ for many years too and rust is not so bad. Off topic, they store a lot of planes and things in AZ just because it is dry and rust is low. Makes for a fun trip to the Air and Space museum.

Professor Fate, thanks for the thorough list of common problem areas. I'll be making a list from all the good insight on this thread to go through one by one when I see it. I am interested to see it and find out what things might have been done…what the pictures don't show. I didn't know about the vinyl tops, so that will be interesting to look at closer.

I kind of like that "these ain't Hemi cars" since it makes it a bit more special and surprising to people who don’t know (which I would have been one of a month ago! Haha)
 
ocdart, thanks for the welcome! I am also in SoCal, and my dad is in NorCal, so got it all covered haha.

I think I lean more towards a 'restomod' build, but that said I don't want to mess up something special. It seems like this one may not be too rare, but I definitely need to check on that vinyl question.
 
Is the fact that it is body/engine vin matching anything special?

No, it isn't because it is an impossibility. The VIN only appears in one place on a 1966 Mopar, the VIN plate in the door jamb. The number on the fender tag and radiator support is the Shipping Order Number. The two numbers can only be matched with a broadcast sheet or IBM card. The block will be stamped on the front under the left head, but that will not contain the car VIN, either.

BUT, congrats on the project.
 
No, it isn't because it is an impossibility. The VIN only appears in one place on a 1966 Mopar, the VIN plate in the door jamb. The number on the fender tag and radiator support is the Shipping Order Number. The two numbers can only be matched with a broadcast sheet or IBM card. The block will be stamped on the front under the left head, but that will not contain the car VIN, either.

BUT, congrats on the project.

Howdy Jim, thanks for that info. I am going to have to keep it in mind when seeing it in person, as I am unfamiliar with how the VIN and Shipping Order Numbers work. This car was described as "numbers matching" and "original engine" so I was kind of assuming it meant that the VIN must also be on the block somewhere. Sounds like they may not fully know how to describe it, so thanks for catching me up!
 
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