W2 valve size recommendations

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repli
you can't have too much unless velocity goes away
a lot of slow moving air does not work
think boss fords
 
Here are some measurements with the two pedestals Between the intake ports.

The first measurement and pictures two and three are pictures of the pedestal with the oil hole leading from the deck. Picture three shows how I took the measurements. The second measurement In picture four is from the pedestal between the other pair of intake ports.

This should give you a good idea if you have the tall valve , like my pictures, or short valve econo heads.

View attachment 1715535745 View attachment 1715535746 View attachment 1715535747 View attachment 1715535748
Thanks for the pictures and measurements, it looks like I have the std length version, and my pedestals are machined closer to the valve, compared to yours.
 
Looking at your valve to rocker arm positioning i can see you likely had the lower pedestal height. There are rocker arm systems made for econo W2 Heads specifically by Harland Sharp and T&D which may work for the lower pedestal heads.

I have mocked up the Mopar blue rockers on my tall pedestal heads and the relationship of roller to valve tip look pretty good.

A different rocker set up or milling the pedestals - there are options for you to complete your heads.

Keep us posted. Good thread.
 
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I think I will mill the pedestals off, try to find the offset shafts and essentially turn these into the long valve race version. Excellent advice from everyone, thank you all!
 
I think I will mill the pedestals off, try to find the offset shafts and essentially turn these into the long valve race version. Excellent advice from everyone, thank you all!


That’s the best option, but it is the most labor intensive and expensive.

Most guys cheap out. It may be very hard to find any good offset blocks. I’m down to one set. And one set of shafts too. Support for this stuff is gone.
 
That’s the best option, but it is the most labor intensive and expensive.

Most guys cheap out. It may be very hard to find any good offset blocks. I’m down to one set. And one set of shafts too. Support for this stuff is gone.
I'm not afraid to make the stands on my mill....and the shaft I MAY be able to elongate the holes enough...I'm gonna try anyway. Definitely be easier if I had the offset shafts
 
I'm not afraid to make the stands on my mill....and the shaft I MAY be able to elongate the holes enough...I'm gonna try anyway. Definitely be easier if I had the offset shafts

I like that. If you can make your own you are pooping in the tall cotton. I thought @Rocket had some offset shafts, but evidently he doesn’t because he didn’t address it earlier in the thread.
 
My last set of w2s had steel stands and offset shafts, but aluminum would be much easier for me to machine, thoughts on that?
 
My last set of w2s had steel stands and offset shafts, but aluminum would be much easier for me to machine, thoughts on that?


I broke several steel stands. When I switched to the aluminum stands it stopped breaking them. Has several steel stands hanging on the wall of shame. I should have at least taken a picture of it before I moved and took it down.
 
offset shafts
you mean the holes moved over to the tube wall or sligtly into it?
aluminum works fine
 
offset shafts
you mean the holes moved over to the tube wall or sligtly into it?
aluminum works fine
My other set looked like a normal banana groove shaft, with the holes elongated to one side, and the stands drilled accordingly
 
Thanks for the plug Yellow Rose on the shafts. You are correct I do have some sets of the offset drilled W2 shafts made from 0.150 hard chromed chromeoly. Anyone interested can pm me.

W2 Shaft 1.JPG
W2 Shaft 2.JPG
W2 Shaft 4.JPG
W2 Shaft 5.JPG
 
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Haven't done anymore on these, waiting on my new flowbench setup to get here, so I can try a few things, will update as soon as I make progress!
 
Ok. I just wanted to think about this for a bit before replying.

Number ONE thing here is a tunnel ram is always the best intake IF you don’t mind the hood issues. Always. I don’t care if it’s a street only car. If you have a TR and you don’t mind the hole in the hood, use it. That helps everywhere.

Sooooo...with that you should use a custom cam from a grinder who “gets” you and what you expect. I’ll say this again...Jim Dowell at Racer Brown is the master at using his lobes (wherever he gets them) to make the best of what you have. I think of Jim the same way I think of Mike at B3. He is that good. A bit hard to get ahold of, because he grinds the cams, answers the phone, pays the bills, sweeps the floors...he does it all. But worth it to me because he “gets” me. That’s more important than any name on a box. The cam is the second most important part of a TR setup, right behind carb tuning.

If you don’t want to spin the guts out of it, that’s fine. It’s less load on the induction system. I’m going to do a 3.79 stroke with W2 heads (maybe a TR...maybe) and shift it at 7800. That’s going to take a roller lobe for sure.

Lift never hurts a W2 head. Ever. The only exception is the wrong valve job causing turbulence issues. If the flow curve bends over it doesn’t matter. Get as much lift as the valve gear will tolerate. I’m going to shoot for a .725 net lift lobe, but Jim may tell me I’m wacky. But that’s what I think I need for what I’m doing.

I haven’t thought about port cross section verse displacement very hard yet. I do know a 340 at 8500 needs all the cross section you can give it. Unless someone else is writing the checks, I won’t do that again. My best guess today is for a 3.79 stroke at 7000 or a bit more will need the port squared at the top, and can be left round at the bottom, with at least a 2.055 valve and a 50* seat to keep the bowl and throat reasonable. It may need an odd size like 2.065 or 2.070 and a 50* seat, or a 45 and a 2.08. Im not sure about a 2.08 and a seat steeper than 45 because you’ll need a pretty big cross section to feed it. So that means if you start running bigger valves and need cross section to feed it, then you not only square off the top of the port, you do the bottom too.

That’s sucky because those heads are harder than the hinges of hell and grinding them sucks. And you just can’t square the opening. You have to square the port all the way back. Thats a ton of miserable grinding work. And, you have to grind the manifold to match. If you are using a Pro Dominator and you square the top of the port and do the intake correctly, you might as well weld it before you start grinding. Because you’ll find the thin spot pretty quick.

On the MP TR...I’ve never had one for the W2 but I did for the W5. It took some grinding, but that’s just because like the head, the ports in the intake are small to begin with.

So the big things are cam selection, carb tuning and valve sizing verses cross section. When you get all that on the same page the HP/CID will be impressive.

Lead69 and I (and several other really smart, cool guys) did a TR, cam and carbs for a friend, and it turned out very impressive. It’s a 3.75 stroke SBC (so it’s a .040 over 400) and for that we used 2 HP Holley 750’s and a Racer Brown 279/279 248/248 .648/.648 grind with on a 108 installed at 105. That thing is pretty impressive. He can shift a 7000 and it’s making power. Hopefully he can get it on the wheel dyno sometime and see what it really does.[/QUOT
Can Mr Dowell be reached thru email also ?
 
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