4" to 4.5" rear wheel bolt conversion on a '64 Valiant?

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Craig Monin

Craig Monin

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Can anyone suggest the easiest way to install 4.5" bolt pattern lugs (drums) onto an existing '64 Valiant? Or is there another Mopar compatible rear end that will bolt in? Converting to disc brakes on front with 4.5" lug pattern for greater choice in wheels. Thanks!
 
Install a '73 or newer 7 1/4 or 8 1/4 A body rear end. The 7 1/4 is a direct bolt-in, the 8 1/4 will require your driveshaft to be shortened and larger u bolts and shock plates.
The quick and dirty way is to install wheel adapters or have your existing axles and drums redrilled to the 5x4.5 pattern.
 
Professor Fate said:
Install a '73 or newer 7 1/4 or 8 1/4 A body rear end. The 7 1/4 is a direct bolt-in, the 8 1/4 will require your driveshaft to be shortened and larger u bolts and shock plates.
The quick and dirty way is to install wheel adapters or have your existing axles and drums redrilled to the 5x4.5 pattern.
Click to expand...

Great. Thanks professor!
 
(I'll get flamed for this, but...)

I used a 1965 Ford Mustang 8" rear-end on my 1965 valiant. It has a 4.5" bolt pattern, stronger rear-end, more gearing options. The axle width and hanger locations match the early a-body 7&1/4 mopar rear for the A-bodies almost EXACTLY. That's the good. The bad: the spring hangers were 3" not 2.5" (apparently some of those mustangs had 2.5" but the one I got had 3"). The mopar 7&1/4 had 2.5" hanger. So I had to deal with that. The axle TUBE was 3" on the 7&1/4 mopar and 2.5" on the Ford. I had to deal with that. Also, the pinion-snubber setup is different (I currently do not have a pinion snubber!). Also, drive axle u-joint is not the same, but you can get the correct u-joint for like $17.
 
J Glenn said:
(I'll get flamed for this, but...)

I used a 1965 Ford Mustang 8" rear-end on my 1965 valiant. It has a 4.5" bolt pattern, stronger rear-end, more gearing options. The axle width and hanger locations match the early a-body 7&1/4 mopar rear for the A-bodies almost EXACTLY. That's the good. The bad: the spring hangers were 3" not 2.5" (apparently some of those mustangs had 2.5" but the one I got had 3"). The mopar 7&1/4 had 2.5" hanger. So I had to deal with that. The axle TUBE was 3" on the 7&1/4 mopar and 2.5" on the Ford. I had to deal with that. Also, the pinion-snubber setup is different (I currently do not have a pinion snubber!). Also, drive axle u-joint is not the same, but you can get the correct u-joint for like $17.
Click to expand...

I've got a 9" narrowed and ready to put in my 64. They can flame all they want, but I'll have a better rear end than probably even a Dana 60.
 
I know a guy sitting on several cast aluminum adapters that covert 4 inch BP to 4.5. Im not sure I like the casting, but I’m trying to find a CNC that will run small batches and have them made from billet. Those I would use.
 
J Glenn said:
(I'll get flamed for this, but...)

I used a 1965 Ford Mustang 8" rear-end on my 1965 valiant. It has a 4.5" bolt pattern, stronger rear-end, more gearing options. The axle width and hanger locations match the early a-body 7&1/4 mopar rear for the A-bodies almost EXACTLY. That's the good. The bad: the spring hangers were 3" not 2.5" (apparently some of those mustangs had 2.5" but the one I got had 3"). The mopar 7&1/4 had 2.5" hanger. So I had to deal with that. The axle TUBE was 3" on the 7&1/4 mopar and 2.5" on the Ford. I had to deal with that. Also, the pinion-snubber setup is different (I currently do not have a pinion snubber!). Also, drive axle u-joint is not the same, but you can get the correct u-joint for like $17.
Click to expand...


Nothing to get flamed for- you use what works. I honestly forgot about the Mustang/Falcon/Maverick rears- just don't mistakenly get a 4 bolt... then you're really SOL. The late 7 1/4 is probably easier to locate and MUCH cheaper, as long as you're not pushing a lot of power through it. 8 1/4 or the Ford rear would be second choice, just because 8 1/4 s are starting to go up in price as a result of the ridiculous prices some people are asking for 8 3/4s.
OP- you've got a few reasonable choices here- now it's just a matter of what you can find, and how much $$ you feel like spending!
 
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Craig, you being in California it should be easy to score a BBP 73-76 7 1/4 or a 8 1/4.
When I did mine I found one 7 1/4 for free and another for $100.
 
Professor Fate said:
Install a '73 or newer 7 1/4 or 8 1/4 A body rear end. The 7 1/4 is a direct bolt-in, the 8 1/4 will require your driveshaft to be shortened and larger u bolts and shock plates.
The quick and dirty way is to install wheel adapters or have your existing axles and drums redrilled to the 5x4.5 pattern.
Click to expand...
I like the whole rear end replacement method first. Thanks!!
 
Professor Fate said:
Nothing to get flamed for- you use what works. I honestly forgot about the Mustang/Falcon/Maverick rears- just don't mistakenly get a 4 bolt... then you're really SOL. The late 7 1/4 is probably easier to locate and MUCH cheaper, as long as you're not pushing a lot of power through it. 8 1/4 or the Ford rear would be second choice, just because 8 1/4 s are starting to go up in price as a result of the ridiculous prices some people are asking for 8 3/4s.
OP- you've got a few reasonable choices here- now it's just a matter of what you can find, and how much $$ you feel like spending!
Click to expand...
Agree. Here's one you've never heard before: "I'm in a hurry and my budget is limited!" LOL
 
yellow rose said:
I know a guy sitting on several cast aluminum adapters that covert 4 inch BP to 4.5. Im not sure I like the casting, but I’m trying to find a CNC that will run small batches and have them made from billet. Those I would use.
Click to expand...
Well I don't figure on taking it to the drag strip or the possible space the adapter will take not to mention your doubt. But it sure sounds like bolt-on easy.
 
J Glenn said:
(I'll get flamed for this, but...)

I used a 1965 Ford Mustang 8" rear-end on my 1965 valiant. It has a 4.5" bolt pattern, stronger rear-end, more gearing options. The axle width and hanger locations match the early a-body 7&1/4 mopar rear for the A-bodies almost EXACTLY. That's the good. The bad: the spring hangers were 3" not 2.5" (apparently some of those mustangs had 2.5" but the one I got had 3"). The mopar 7&1/4 had 2.5" hanger. So I had to deal with that. The axle TUBE was 3" on the 7&1/4 mopar and 2.5" on the Ford. I had to deal with that. Also, the pinion-snubber setup is different (I currently do not have a pinion snubber!). Also, drive axle u-joint is not the same, but you can get the correct u-joint for like $17.
Click to expand...
LOL, so you're saying blasphemy?! Maybe only to a diehard purist. I've seen crazier concoctions of chassis', engines, and bodies. You sure have been to battle over that situation and came out with a solid solution. Sounds like you earned it! ;)
 
Craig Monin said:
Ohhh maaan that's quite the tease! lol. But like the others mentioned they should be fairly common. In a couple months I'll be taking it to Charlotte, NC after breaking out of prison! lol
Click to expand...
By the way, I love the early 'Cuda built off the Valiant, as well as the early Valiant with the "fin" type body pieces.
 
Craig Monin said:
Can anyone suggest the easiest way to install 4.5" bolt pattern lugs (drums) onto an existing '64 Valiant? Or is there another Mopar compatible rear end that will bolt in? Converting to disc brakes on front with 4.5" lug pattern for greater choice in wheels. Thanks!
Click to expand...
This was my first post and I've just got to say Thanks to each of you! It may sound strange but just getting an answer to a simple problem so quickly, and by guys who've "been there-done that", sure blessed my heart! It's like I was asking an ole' uncle or something! :)
 
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