Fusible Link Fried!

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Lelo Dart

Lelo Dart

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Went to the hardware store turned the key and no start, tried again and POOF, and big cloud of smoke came out at the fender and hood. Completely fried the fusible link. Towed it home and installed a inline fuse while I try to trouble shoot it. Works fine till I put the key into the start position and pop there goes the fuse. Have tried unhooking every thing electrical one thing at a time and still can't figure it out. Unhooked and tried starter relay, coil, distributor, ecu harness, even the starter. Prob more things I can't think of right now. Starting to suspect the ignition switch but thought I would reach out here first before tearing into it.
 
could be the switch or wiring or bulkhead connector. something is shorted out you need a manual, a good flashlight, and if you need to spend a fair amount of time under the dash, remove the front seat.
what car and year?
maybe @Mattax has some time to help you, he's very good with the wiring on these
 
With respect to the fusible link -
The key switch connects only two circuits in Start;
The Wire which close the starter relay, usually labled S and yellow insulated.
Ignition start, which powers the coil. (Usually brown insulated up to the ballast resistor)

Can't offer more detail than that without the usual
Model:
Year:
Transmission:
Ignition, Stock or what?
Alternator and VR, stock or ?
Any other modifications to the electrical system from stock.
 
Mattax said:
With respect to the fusible link -
The key switch connects only two circuits in Start;
The Wire which close the starter relay, usually labled S and yellow insulated.
Ignition start, which powers the coil. (Usually brown insulated up to the ballast resistor)

Can't offer more detail than that without the usual
Model:
Year:
Transmission:
Ignition, Stock or what?
Alternator and VR, stock or ?
Any other modifications to the electrical system from stock.
Click to expand...

1972 Dart Swinger, 904 transmission, FBO converted ignition, alt and VR stock. Ammeter bypassed, voltage meter installed.
I have tried disconnecting both of those circuits and have drilled out the connector and soldered in a new wire where the fusable link was while trying to find the source of the short. Everything works fine till I actually try and start the car.
 
Last edited:
Pull all fuses. Disconnect the alternator. To protect the car wiring while testing, but a "big" lamp in series with battery ground. With a lamp in series, you can short the positive terminal to the block and body and all that will happen, is the lamp will light. Use an old headlight if you have one, otherwise an 1157 stop/ tail bulb with both filaments in parallel


Also suspect that some wiring has now melted and fused to another wire, causing a cross-connect/ short
IF IT only does this when in "start" then disconnect the solenoid wire from the start relay---the big square terminal. If that does not clear the fault, try the ballast/ coil wiring.
 
Will the car start without using the ignition switch? (if you try, make sure it's in park or neutral with the e-brake on and wheels chocked just to be safe) Cross the solenoid wire with the battery connection on the starter relay or right at the starter. If it starts and runs fine, the problem is in the start circuit. Either the wire from the ignition switch to the starter relay is shorted to ground, or the ignition switch is shorted in the column. If the car won't crank (or you get major sparks from trying to hot wire it) The starter has a short in it, or the wire going from the starter relay to the starter does.
 
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