Pilot bearing
In my previous post I assumed the trans was already installed.
1) Riddle me this then; why will the trans not go all the way home? Why is it a half inch short of home? Measure the length of the input, tip to case. Then measure BH face to bottom of hole in crank. Compare. Also prefit the bearing to input nose.
2) The downrod is correct when it centers in the firewall cutout laterally, and does not rub top or bottom in it's travel. The cutouts in the ends of the rod must must fit the pins without binding, throughout their travel, and the special clips installed that keeps the rod on the pins.The Z-bar must rotate smoothly on the nylon bushings, not move laterally, and not bind on the downrod. It must anchor on the BH and frame, such that in plan-view it is at ~90* to the centerline if the vehicle, and ~ parallel to the ground. The pedal must park on it's stopper in the under-dash mechanism. Check all these things before the adjuster rod is installed in the fork.
If the levers on the Z-bar have been tweaked by someone, the pins may not be travelling in the proper arc, and jamming in the downrod. If I had to guess, I might think the top pin, or the pedal bushing is binding up under the dash.
When you pull the pedal up it snaps back up. There is no change in the linkage from the zbar down in this inch. All movement is in the rod through the firewall and connection at zbar.
The snap-back, at the very end (last inch) is correct. But it should be pulling the downrod with it, and rotating the Z-bar . For some reason, it appears that your Z-bar is binding, or the downrod is rubbing in the firewall cutout, or binding on the pivot-pins.Or the pedal is binding in it's pivot bushing, or the retaining clip at the pedal pivot is missing.
With the adjuster rod removed from the Z-bar, it should become apparent which it is.
But if that half is Ok, it would be normal for the Z-bar, and downrod, to clank back and forth,a little on the stationary pedal; I mean there is a lot of "slop in the Downrod windows. After the trans is installed, and the adjuster is assembled into the fork, and the freeplay is adjusted; all that slop will disappear; this is why the trans has to be installed; so you can set the freeplay.
It could be, that everything is normal, but because if the lack of freeplay adjustment, you are perceiving a problem that does not exist. A previous poster mentioned this, go back to post #16,and reread it in it's entirety.
How I see it, the plate springs should be able to force the fingers back enough to get the pedal past center where the OC spring pulls it up. The fork spring pulls the fork forward and keeps the pedal linkage tight.
Where is the release bearing when you pull the fork forward by hand? Do you see a lot of clearance to the fingers?
