Well the fun continues. Still haven't nailed down where the difference in piston height above the deck is coming from but the compression height of the pistons isn't the culprit. Going to swap the rod/piston assy from the short and tall holes to see if it follows the rod or stays in the hole. If it stays, it's the crank, if it follows it should be the rod. Neither of which is an easy fix to even them out.Need to get a piston ring compressor before I can do that, the one I have isn't the right size. Probably from when my Dad was playing with flathead Fords.
In other news....I checked the end play on the crank and it is at .0115", which is no good. I was worried about that last year because it looked like the nose of the converter was pushing on the end of the crank. New converter went in and it has similar marks, even with a new flex plate. Doesn't make sense. Either way there is a lot of end play so I am going to pull a couple caps and look at the mains. Was hoping to avoid that. With the crank out I might as well pull the cam and do a hone and maybe re-ring all cylinders instead of just the one. I don't know. Still thinking about it. Like most projects, the further in I get the more crap I find and more scope creep I end up with. At this point, I'll probably end up with new rod and main bearings. I can get a dingle ball hone for ~$60 or pay to have it done which I would think would be an hour's labor or less? Now I'm not that far from making a case for boring .020 over but if I do that, I am going to go with a stroker setup because I'm not sure I trust this crank to do a high revving 340. Cripes, might as well put port fuel injection and gear drive in while I'm at it. :BangHead: That busted ring has me boxed in a bit.
