Vacuum, speed bleeder, or..what's the best one man bleeding system?

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Demonic

Demonic

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I'm looking for the most successful one person bleeding system. Who has an affordable or flawless method?
 
In general I dislike the idea of vacuum. Seems to me if there is a "trend" to any leak, the vacuum would pull AIR IN to the system. I've always pressure bled. On the older masters, you need a plate and gasket to clamp to the top of the master, an air regulator to pressurize it, and a container in between to feed fluid. Hell I've made them. On my 04 GMC and the Dakota, I bought replacement filler caps, drilled and tapped the cap, and screwed in a 1/8" pipe fitting to get pressure in. You can use a cheap weed sprayer bottle as well
 
Demonic said:
I'm looking for the most successful one person bleeding system. Who has an affordable or flawless method?
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Hello Demonic,
May sound crazy, But I use a spring loaded Curtain rod with a piece of wood that has a angled hole drilled in it to prevent slippage.
Have been doing one person bleeding for years this way.
Other half is still wondering where that curtain rod disappeared to LOL....
Stay Safe......
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstay...Tension-Curtain-Rod-7-16-in-Diameter/50015126

Brake Bleader one man..jpg
 
I like the idea of pressure bleeding through the bleeder screw and forcing the air out of the reservoir, ya know, cause the air wants to rise. That being said I've never used one and the equipment is rather expensive. You can just crack the bleeder and let gravity do the work if your master cylinder is higher than the bleeders. It takes hours to do it that way. Then there is the little bottle that is kind of like a bong. Just keep slowly pumping the brake until it quits bubbling air.
 
Push pedal. Lock it down, crack bleeder. Repeat. This is the best helper i have ever had when it comes to bleeding brakes. Slow but effective.

the curtain rod thing looks like it would work too.

17D4C70A-8265-441B-8BD3-05C766DA94B9.jpeg
 
pishta said:
That's what the wife is for, among other things. I've gravity bled before. You never know when you got the air out though.
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I think my wife would rather have a tooth pulled than to help in the shop. I quit asking.
 
I just bought a Motive pressure bleeder a few weeks ago, and I just tried it on my Corvair yesterday after years of getting help from my wife or my dad. It works well; the only shortcoming is making sure you have a good seal at the master cylinder. It'll either push fluid out or you can hear it hissing, so it's pretty obvious. Since I have different kinds of cars, I bought the universal one. It's pretty expensive, but I like flushing out the lines every few years, so I think it will come in handy.

Motive Products 0250: Universal Power Bleeder Pro Kit Fits virtually any Car or Truck application | JEGS
 
Just one of those cheap " bleed-o-matic" containers from the parts store...
 
I have sold and used the Mighty Vac and Vacula design bleeders. They provide vacuum at the bleeder and the only way you can introduce air into the system is if you have a leak somewhere or you run the master cylinder dry. (they have reservoir bottles to keep the master full in most of the kits) These are very handy especially if you are bleeding new lines. They are $100+ though and you may not use them often enough to justify buying it. They are also handy for sucking the master cylinder dry if you need to replace it. It helps prevent brake fluid spills on the paint.

vacula.jpg
 
This is what I use, maybe a little unconventional, but it works really well. HF air conditioner vacuum pump, air operated and costs about $17 dollars, venturi manifold about pulls 28 lbs of vacuum. I use a glass jar with two holes in the lid when I start seeing clear brake fluid I disconnect the air supply. The vacuum pump “says” it requires 90psi, never had to use that much air pressure to operate it for this purpose. Keep the hoses short and stout and low pressure or it will suck your hoses shut, otherwise….it’s a cheap and effective means.

IMG_3948.JPG
 
Tooljunkie said:
Push pedal. Lock it down, crack bleeder. Repeat. This is the best helper i have ever had when it comes to bleeding brakes. Slow but effective.

the curtain rod thing looks like it would work too.

View attachment 1715542604
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I scored an AIR operated "push pedal" at the thrift store, did not realize what it was at first.
 
Ya
67Dart273 said:
I scored an AIR operated "push pedal" at the thrift store, did not realize what it was at first.
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going to need to see that. In case i see one at a swap meet or something.
 
toolmanmike said:
I have sold and used the Mighty Vac and Vacula design bleeders. They provide vacuum at the bleeder and the only way you can introduce air into the system is if you have a leak somewhere or you run the master cylinder dry. (they have reservoir bottles to keep the master full in most of the kits) These are very handy especially if you are bleeding new lines. They are $100+ though and you may not use them often enough to justify buying it. They are also handy for sucking the master cylinder dry if you need to replace it. It helps prevent brake fluid spills on the paint.

View attachment 1715542606
Click to expand...
I used one of those years ago. Worked very well, even if the bleeder screw leaks air,which they all do. I may adapt my airlift to bleed brakes. Same principle.
 
I use gravity bleeding on older stuff like our cars. I've never once had an issue where it didn't work. Newer stuff with ABS and other types of bullshitter valves, not so much.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly is gravity bleeding? Is it just like it sounds? Crack a bleeder open and let er flow?
 
MarPar said:
Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly is gravity bleeding? Is it just like it sounds? Crack a bleeder open and let er flow?
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YUP. I've only done one at a time but I wonder if you can open them all at once.
 
no, it will flow eventually, usually just drips but it does flow.
 
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