Looking for info on the 440 4BBL Torque Converters

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Dragonsteel

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I found this chart on the web

Factory Converters


Engine ................ Diameter ............. Stall-Rate
* 225 ...................... 10.75" ................ 1450 to 1650
* 273 ...................... 10.75" ................ 1800
* 318 ...................... 10.75" ................ 1750 to 1950
* 340 ...................... 10.75" ................ 2250 to 2450
* 383 {2-Barrel} ...... 11.75" ................ 1850 to 2150
* 383 {4-Barrel} ...... 10.75" ................ 2350 to 2650
* 440 {4-Barrel} ...... 11.75" ................ 2000 to 2350
* 426 {Street Hemi} . 10.75" ................ 2650 to 2850

I'm putting in a fresh 727 on my externally balanced 383, with stealth 440 heads, purple cam,
edlebrock performer intake, 750 street demon carb.
Since my flex plate is the larger 11.75" and I like the stall rate on the 440 4 barrel, would anyone have a source for factory spec torque converters or part numbers?
 
I don't know about part numbers, but I can tell you first hand that their technology came over on the ark with Noah. There are MUCH, MUCH better choices.
 
I agree with Rusty. I just put a 5.9 Magnum in my 66 Barracuda and called PTC (Performance Torque Converters) out of Muscle Schoals, Alabama for a converter. I am amazed at how well their converter acts. Drive normal, it acts normal, pedal to the metal and it flashes to just over 3000.

Kenny, the owner, is a Mopar guy. Give them a call and see if Kenny is around to talk to. I spoke to Tommy, the sales guy, a couple of times and Kenny once. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.
 
I believe the 383 2 barrel and the 440 4 barrel 11.75 convertors are the same. the difference in stall is simply due to the added torque of the 440.
 
I agree with Rusty. I just put a 5.9 Magnum in my 66 Barracuda and called PTC (Performance Torque Converters) out of Muscle Schoals, Alabama for a converter. I am amazed at how well their converter acts. Drive normal, it acts normal, pedal to the metal and it flashes to just over 3000.

Kenny, the owner, is a Mopar guy. Give them a call and see if Kenny is around to talk to. I spoke to Tommy, the sales guy, a couple of times and Kenny once. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.
I filled out their online spec sheet, but i'm not looking to spend over $250 on a TC and I doubt theirs will be in that range.
 
I started by filling it out also. The converter I got from them was $525 shipped to Georgia.
 
I filled out their online spec sheet, but i'm not looking to spend over $250 on a TC and I doubt theirs will be in that range.

Then you will get a "VERY" inefficient converter. Good luck!
 
Put a wanted ad for a used 1 that someone has laying around. Lots of motor home engine tranny swaps that the member had changed the Tork and has the old 1 just laying under the bench. Kim
 
Then you will get a "VERY" inefficient converter. Good luck!
Rusty is absolutely right. I worked in the converter industry and have seen enough converters cut open to know, "you only get what you pay for."
As far as used converters go, I've found they make great door stops. JHMO
 
Put a wanted ad for a used 1 that someone has laying around. Lots of motor home engine tranny swaps that the member had changed the Tork and has the old 1 just laying under the bench. Kim

I have a coupe of 440 motor home converters and they have a yellow "low stall" sticker on them.
 
My understanding is Chrysler just used 2 different torque converters depending on application. I believe 360s also came hooked up to the 11.75" converter in HD applications like trucks. I know the 360 in my 72 D200 with a 727 definitely doesn't stall much over 2000 RPM if that (still need to put in a tach).

Factory converters are really "tight" overall they won't hit their max stall speed unless you're really pushing it. IMO if you spent the money on heads, cam, carb, intake etc. then it's kind of doing your engine a disservice to use a stock converter.
 
I don't believe the hype. I think they're all pretty much the same on quality when it comes to an efficient stall. It's more about matching the car, unless it's a super race converter.
 
I don't believe the hype. I think they're all pretty much the same on quality when it comes to an efficient stall. It's more about matching the car, unless it's a super race converter.

"All the hype" is more important for an efficient street car than anything.
 
After 3 nights of banging my head on the keyboard searching for a converter, I finally just decided to go all TCI to try and preserve any hope of a warranty. I went with their Breakaway converter which is nuetral balanced which meant I had to get their balanced flexplate since I was told that they no longer do weighted converters by the TCI tech.
 
After 3 nights of banging my head on the keyboard searching for a converter, I finally just decided to go all TCI to try and preserve any hope of a warranty. I went with their Breakaway converter which is nuetral balanced which meant I had to get their balanced flexplate since I was told that they no longer do weighted converters by the TCI tech.

There was no sense in banging your head on the keyboard. You had great advice right here.
 
I don't believe the hype. I think they're all pretty much the same on quality when it comes to an efficient stall. It's more about matching the car, unless it's a super race converter.


and you would be wrong.

unless you have driven a car with a good efficient and matched converter thats how many think. its a shame because i see guys spend thousands in their motor with all kinds of quality speed parts only to cheap out on a converter and have it not run anywhere near its potential. the converter is one of the most critical parts of the combination. again if you have never experienced it then i guess you wouldn't believe it...

i just don't see why someone would spend the time and money on all this (below) only to put a crap converter in it.

'm putting in a fresh 727 on my externally balanced 383, with stealth 440 heads, purple cam,
edlebrock performer intake, 750 street demon carb.
 
Sounds like it should be a good converter.

'67-'81 Chrysler Torqueflite 727 Transmissions (24-Spline)*


The first step into serious high performance, the Breakaway® is a great torque converter for moderately modified street machines and weekend racers that are also used as daily drivers. It provides approximately 2400 to 2600 RPM flash stall without negatively affecting part throttle driving. Designed for both efficiency at highway cruising speeds and to launch hard at wide open throttle, the Breakaway® is a fantastic all-around torque converter featuring furnace-brazed fins, needle bearings, a hardened, pre-ground pump hub and computer balancing.

 
i just don't see why someone would spend the time and money on all this (below) only to put a crap converter in it.

The previous trans was a stock rebuild/stock TC, with no shift kit so I will have now have the chance to see for my self the difference between the "Old" and the "New" TCI 727 with a shift kit and their Breakaway converter.
 
The previous trans was a stock rebuild/stock TC, with no shift kit so I will have now have the chance to see for my self the difference between the "Old" and the "New" TCI 727 with a shift kit and their Breakaway converter.

That's just it. The Breakaway, while a step up from "what you had" is 25-30 year old technology.

Also consider this. As I've said many times before, Chrysler actually USED converter stall speed, unlike Ford or Chevy. The stock stall for a Chrysler converter was generally "around" 1200-1700 RPM. They knew a higher stall speed was essential in getting the car moving with that "effortless" feel, and they were right! The factory high stall ratings were "about" 1000 RPM above the stock rating. That's what you got in say a 383 HP or 440 Super Commando car. So, the converter you have chosen would be about perfect for a stock 69 440 Cuda. You have a fairly warm 383, which has a good bid less stroke (and torque) than a 440. Even with the "purple cam" and the "stealth heads" it still may not reach its full potential, since it has "only" a 3.375" stroke.

Hopefully, it will be a good one for you.
 
I think that's the converter I have but for the 904. Guy I bought it from for $50 said it was "some cheap TCI or whatever" mild stall converter. It gets the job done, stalls around 2600 rpm behind my warm 360 but it's super loose and inefficient. If I didn't have plans to swap in a T56 manual I'd get a better one it's not that great.
 
Like Rusty says old technology from the 80s. I can tell u right now u will be disappointed with it. It doesn’t have enough stall for ur cam and it’s torque multiplication sucks. When ur car is overheating u will blame everything else. It will be the converter because of its inefficiency. I have been around 10 of these converters and not 1 was any dam good. I do not recommend them at all. These are my experience with them. Yours may vary. Kim
 
I started by filling it out also. The converter I got from them was $525 shipped to Georgia.

Give him some more feedback on your car. I recommended the parameters of a converter for @66fyssh and he was somewhat afraid at first, but he stepped up and did it and loves it.
 
Rusty is correct. He was giving me tips on my recent build and recommended a 3000-3500 stall converter. All I could remember from 35 years ago is the engine revving to 3500 every time you wanted to move the car. My car is 99% street and I wanted it to be fun to drive.

When talking to PTC, they assured me it would have good street manners. I was still skeptical but I also realize technology has come a long way. So I went for it. I gave them all the details of my build.

I'm very happy with the converter. I was out driving yesterday and it's flashing to 3200. But driving normally around town you wouldn't know it wasn't stock. The car is fun to drive because it has the best of both worlds.
:steering:
 
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