2 post lifts

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Craig Burriss

Craig Burriss

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I’m getting a 24x36’ 6” thick concrete slab poured in my yard soon that I plan on eventually putting a 2 post lift in the center of, and maybe one day putting a roof over. After doing some research I’m starting to think it might be a good idea to get the center area of the slab poured thicker for safety reasons.
What thicknesses do y’all have for your lifts? And how far does the extra thick areas go out past the lift? I know every lift manufacturer probably has different rules for their concrete, but I don’t know which lift I’m getting yet because I basically know nothing about any of them. I just don’t want to have to go back and cut up a fresh slab to thicken the concrete.
What’s a good “affordable” lift?
 
I think most lifts would be fine with a 6in thick pad. Though I don't know if it's required, I would think some rebar would be a good idea, just make good notes of where you place it so it doesn't interfere with the mtg bolts. If it's going to be outside for awhile, maybe you could bury the conduit and/or hydraulic lines in or under the slab.
 
6" is fine ( and is the requirement for most) rebar not required. I might suggest adding a couple of anchor boxes in your pad somewhere. Never know when you need to pull on something from an anchor point.
 
Blind Squirrel said:
6" is fine ( and is the requirement for most) rebar not required. I might suggest adding a couple of anchor boxes in your pad somewhere. Never know when you need to pull on something from an anchor point.
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I wouldn`t pour a slab without rebar or the wire !! All slabs around here have one or another , or stress cables !
 
1st off if you don’t have the lift, don’t pour the pad. You can but you will be going backwards once you try to mount the lift.
The best pour of a pad is when you can pre install anchor j bolts that match the lifts mounting pads instead of drilling and Hilti bolts especially outside where rain will seep into the drilled holes and start to rust / rot your fasteners. I’m not sure where you live but if frost is issue the. Digging down below frost line is key to getting a pad that will not crack or lift. It’s going to be a large pad so rebar and or wire AND cutting in stress released lines to control the cracking is a must. 6” is a good depth but make sure it’s 5,000psi minimum and you have plenty of drainage under the pad. This cannot be just a 2x6 nailed together on top of top soil or you will have issues and not be happy. As for What lifts, there are plenty of companies out there. Always buy one size larger than you need. Trust me on that one. If cost is issue, then buy a well named unit. Easy parts availability is also important. They do break and wear out and nothing sucks more than not being able to replace a broken equalizer cable when a car is stuck 4ft off the ground.
When I get to my shop I’ll try to give you what lifts i have. Not named brand but proven good lifts at a reasonable price. syleng1
 
Sorry Craig I see your in Georgia where frost is not issue. Ya just need to make sure you don’t pour on top of top soil and dig that all out first. Non organic base is what you want.
most people pour only over 6” of compacted 3/4” crushed stone so water can drain away from the pad. Again not freezing like what I deal with here in New England. But also not creating a pond under the pad and allowing movement allowing for concrete breakage. Concrete is a great pad but it does not flex well. Lol!
 
Mine shop is on sand and bedrock but the lift is on sand. My whole floor is a 4" thick, six bag mix with fibermesh.

I have a 50 year old Weaver two post lift constructed of 3/4 and one inch thick steel bolted to the floor with one inch anchors. The lift itself is very heavy....likely in the 2,000 lb area.

I bought it used around 1994 and I've had loaded E350 vans on it and duallys without and issues.

I would think your area in GA has red clay. That may influence your concete pour.

I would find a local, professional concrete contractor and let them tell you what you need. And call the local installing dealer for pro lifts like Aamco, Monarch or Rotary. They will have your answers. Google is your friend.

You will get all sorts of different answers many from people just repeating what they have heard here and on the net. Not a bad thing but let the pros give you advice.

My lift is on 4" and my buddies Rotary is also on 4". No issues for me for in 35 years. And I used to use it on dozens of projects.

And don't just buy on price. A shiny new El Cheapo Chinese lift may not be a good value. I paid $1800.00 for mine and disassembled it and reinstalled it myself with my friends help. All you need is a square and a tape measure to get it right. Oh yeah a good set of anchors.

Good luck.
 
Some good ideas here! The guy that’s pouring it has been doing concrete around here for almost 40 years and is doing a gravel base underneath and using some reinforcement wire, so I trust his abilities.
Thinking about the lift, it would be nice to get my dad’s 9000lb F550 up in the air from time to time, because that thing is a monster to get up on jacks, but I’d mostly be using it for my Duster and Miata though.
I’m glad to hear the 6” is enough so I don’t have to keep adding costs this project (yet).

Thanks!
 
I knew I was getting a lift eventually. Had the contractor make a two foot wide strip across wit 8", lift could have gone on four. See what the manufacturers recommends. And do the anchor points I should have.
 
I helped pour concrete for a living, so let me advise you, its not how thick you make it as much as the amount of steel that counts, a perfect example, the church i attend built a 30 X 60 ft. picnic shelter and wouldn't take any advice , poured it 1 foot thick, no steel, sealed every 2 years, now 10 years later its cracked in every direction and wide cracks at that.
 
Can't believe anyone would pour a slab without reo mesh , heck even my little air compressor slab has mesh in it.
 
They used the mesh on mine should have added that. I also put a tube from the fuse box to the far wall for the wiring. Easy if I need to add one more line!
 
At least 8" thick unless poured on virgin ground. A recently back filled area you should dig to a solid base under lift.

I have and ALM I have it since 1997 it is a very dangerous lift. The arm locks are threaded slip rods which wore out .Make sure you buy a lift with auto locking arm so they do not swing free once the car is in the air. Note the free swinging arms below . If the arms were gear locked once raised they may have survived.

 
Oldmanmopar said:
At least 8" thick unless poured on virgin ground. A recently back filled area you should dig to a solid base under lift.

I have and ALM I have it since 1997 it is a very dangerous lift. The arm locks are threaded slip rods which wore out .Make sure you buy a lift with auto locking arm so they do not swing free once the car is in the air. Note the free swinging arms below . If the arms were gear locked once raised they may have survived.

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I’m always very safe while under a car and agree I need one with auto locks.
I don’t think I would have grabbed onto the car like that. The one guy did the right thing and GTFO
 
Craig Burriss said:
I’m always very safe while under a car and agree I need one with auto locks.
I don’t think I would have grabbed onto the car like that. The one guy did the right thing and GTFO
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But he went back under. If the arms are locked and under the car it cannot come down. Always use tall stands under the rear diff. When you start taking things off the front . It will tilt back on an asometric lift.
 
He should have saved himself. 1st sign of movement and I would have been on the other side of the shop. Don't be a dead hero.
 
All the lifts I researched for a year Mine is a 4 post and movable "we're just as good as a bendpak", so I bought a bendpak. Mine is a 4 post and movable.
 
Big difference in strength between acstd. four bag mix and a six bag. That's the number of bags if cement in one yard of concrete. The size of the aggregate in the concrete is also a factor.

I actually had my concrete guy pour a 12" thick area when I was building my shop. But when I bought my lift the base wasn't anywhere near where it needed to be that's one reason four the shallower pour under my lift. That and what was recommended to me by the concrete guy and the refi mix company.

I worked on a concrete crew doing big subdivision work in 1969.... One summer was enough. We would pour 4-6 driveways and a couple basements in our mid summer days....14 hours. Wow...
 
Krooser said:
Big difference in strength between acstd. four bag mix and a six bag. That's the number of bags if cement in one yard of concrete. The size of the aggregate in the concrete is also a factor.

I actually had my concrete guy pour a 12" thick area when I was building my shop. But when I bought my lift the base wasn't anywhere near where it needed to be that's one reason four the shallower pour under my lift. That and what was recommended to me by the concrete guy and the refi mix company.

I worked on a concrete crew doing big subdivision work in 1969.... One summer was enough. We would pour 4-6 driveways and a couple basements in our mid summer days....14 hours. Wow...
Click to expand...

for the rest of you guys , a concrete man is usually someone u dont want to mess with too !
 
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