Don’t understand how pitman and idler arm work at spec torque settings?

Yes the difference in taper diameter is .030 thousands. Not the length of the tapered threads. I don’t have a quick ratio pitman arm. The box has been upgraded to 16:1 ratio. I believe the pitman arm is a standard one. Yes the idler arm is unique to the 67 dart. The older one is much more stout. I think that is indicative of the quality of modern replacement parts being **** quality vs older replacements. It’s very unfortunate. I’ll try the new idler arm and if there is a problem I can always put the old one back in. The new idler arm tightens down after being torqued so that the foam gasket is just slightly compressed. That’s where the idler arm’s travel into the k frame stops. I’m not able to move it by hand but I think it’s because it is brand new and I’ll have to see what the movement feels like with the steering back in? If it doesn’t move or binds with the steering in I thinking I could do two things. One loosen the castle nut a little and see if it makes a difference with the steering and then make sure to lock it in place with the cotter pin or two just put the old idler arm in. Quick question. Is there a trick to lining up the castle nut with the hole in the tapered shaft? It is impossible to see it from below based on where it’s located.
you can insert a punch or something into the cotter pin hole and spin the stud around to whatever direction facilitates insertion & removal of the cotter pin, before you push it into the taper hole.