Are traction bars ever right on a Mopar??

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Em-k, how much more power were you thinking you're going to need for those mid 11s with the open rear end...lol
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I have a pair on my D150 that I bought at Carlisle a few years ago and they help reduce wheel hop. The trucks not fast ( low 15s) but is consistent and goes rounds, it 60 fts well (2.0s) for what it is: 4.10 sure grip, M/T Drag radials, B Body Rancho shocks, front spring leafs clamped and traction bars. My race car (68 Dart) had S/S springs but I went to Cal Tracs years ago and they work great.

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Em-k, how much more power were you thinking you're going to need for those mid 11s with the open rear end...lol
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you can go mid 11's with a 1.7 60 ft pretty easy. I'm at a 1.8 now without a chirp. I'm sure it would hook a 1.7. Traction with traction bars is what's being discussed, not what my car needs to go mid 11's.
 
you can go mid 11's with a 1.7 60 ft pretty easy. I'm at a 1.8 now without a chirp. I'm sure it would hook a 1.7. Traction with traction bars is what's being discussed, not what my car needs to go mid 11's.
I'm just quoting what your video said.. em-k...
 
Yes, and I could put an Open 3.91 gear and maybe cut an 1.7 60 ft, and it would hook.
I was more talking about the middle 11's with an open rear end? do you really think you'd want to have that much power behind an open rear end "trying" to do middle 11's?.. it's kind of more you just pointing at your car and letting middle 11's roll off your tongue like you've been there and done that with it...
 
I was more talking about the middle 11's with an open rear end? do you really think you'd want to have that much power behind an open rear end "trying" to do middle 11's?.. it's kind of more you just pointing at your car and letting middle 11's roll off your tongue like you've been there and done that with it...
not what I said, but you'd be the only one to "get that message" out of what was said. Why am I not surprised?
P.S. - I want a sure grip in it now, just because there is ALWAYS a risk of a one tire fire with a open rear end. But lets say my car is a high 12 second car, be honest, did you think a year ago that we could talk high 12's with a 2.94 open??? Not by your post you didn't think that...
 
The whole point of a pinion snubber or traction bar or other similar device is the same thing, to reduce spring wrap up, and wheel hop on a hard launch. Chrysler back in the day incorporated a factory pinion snubber as a traction aid and to prevent the axle from wrapping up too far and causing driveline damage. It was a great idea, built in traction aid from the factory. We all need to remember that chrysler engineers were also racers on the weekends. A lot of what they figured out ended up in production cars, and the public benefitted from it.

This being said Ford and GM cars of this era did NOT have traction bars or pinion snubbers to prevent spring wrap up and axle hop. The aftermarket came to the rescue with a simple solution that worked. The misconception about these not working on MoPars is probably because they already come with a factory pinion snubber. Any high HP leaf spring car with good traction will benefit from having from some sort of traction bar, snubber, caltrac or other type of similar device to prevent or minimize spring wrap. The make of vehicle does not matter.
 
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not what I said, but you'd be the only one to "get that message" out of what was said. Why am I not surprised?
P.S. - I want a sure grip in it now, just because there is ALWAYS a risk of a one tire fire with a open rear end. But lets say my car is a high 12 second car, be honest, did you think a year ago that we could talk high 12's with a 2.94 open??? Not by your post you didn't think that...
Very funny you asked me a question and then you answered it for me LOL...
I got the message the exact one you were sending just letting 11 seconds roll off your tongue like you've been there before and done that in that car. You don't catch it but it's there. That's the only reason I mentioned it. It's a clear message that you think 11 seconds is just going to be a breeze for that car with an open rear end no less...
One thing at a time get to your 12 then start shouting out 11 seconds in your videos when you're pointing at your car...
 
I run properly adjusted sets on both my 450 horse automatic A-Body and my 650 horse 5 speed E-body with great results. Both cars have Nitto Drag Radials on them to make them safer to drive on the street, but were bending the front spring segments of the passenger side SS springs.

Before trying this, I had the full Caltrac with mono leaf set-up on them, but pulled it and sold them due to the horrific ride quality on the open road.

Back in the day, I rarely saw anyone that was running them have them properly adjusted. In fact, almost every set I remember seeing had the front snubber 4 to 6 inches away from touching the front spring eye. They don't work when mounted like that, hence I believe the bad reputation they had for Mopars.

The front snubber must be just barely touching the bottom of the front spring eye. There are no off the shelf slapper bars that fit like that without modification. Starting with the correct length and some cutting, extending and welding of the rear bar mounting perch of is critical, as is shortening the length of the
rubber snubber by half.

My traction out of the hole improved dramatically on both cars with only a very slight stiffening of the rear suspension. I am running two passenger side 3200 lbs SS springs on both cars, which weigh in at 3700 wet.

I went with these for better ride quality and this combination is the best riding and launching suspension I have ever had in 4 decades of trying almost everything else. I painted them black so they blend in better, since they don't work on Mopars...lol.

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Are those Alden shocks ?
 
How about when they are just for fun/display?? A friend of mine found these at a swap meet and bought them for me just for for my van, for fun.
I know this adds little or nothing to the knowledge content of this thread. LOL

the van DOES have a factory suregrip though...

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lol, speaking of which, used to hate those fake side pipes with 4 tubes showing and just one hooked up. I digress...
 
Very funny you asked me a question and then you answered it for me LOL...
I got the message the exact one you were sending just letting 11 seconds roll off your tongue like you've been there before and done that in that car. You don't catch it but it's there. That's the only reason I mentioned it. It's a clear message that you think 11 seconds is just going to be a breeze for that car with an open rear end no less...
One thing at a time get to your 12 then start shouting out 11 seconds in your videos when you're pointing at your car...
Plainly stated "It has the traction to cut 1.7's, maybe 1.6's which is probably good enough to run mid 11's IF it had the power under the hood to do that"...… nothing stated about my current car running 11's. Somehow, that got by you. not surprised, as you have selective hearing :D
 
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Just another tool to help with traction. The manufacturers would go broke making them if no one bought them because they didn't work.
 
What ever works for you. And that’s that.
 
Are those Alden shocks ?

Custom valved AFCO double adjustables. I had to have them increase the valving resistance to slow down the separation on the hit, because of the way the traction bars plant the rear end so much harder than without the bars.
 
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