How does a solid roller cam act vs solid flat tappet

MOPARMAGA said
Okay the info I know as of now as in what I have.
Car 70 dart swinger, will be under 3000 with me in it
73 400 block.
Molnar crank 3.915 stroke
Rods undecided but have molnar billet 6.70 rods & speedmaster 6.70 with L-19 arp bolts.
Pistons flat top +6 cc SRP 4032 forged
4.375 bore
Trickflow 240 heads & track heat intake
Since I'm not transmission parts far into this I'd like to be under 4k on the stall
28-30 inch tires undecided
Gear 3.91 -4.30 undecided.
Billet steel drum
Manual valve body.
Purpose of car is to piss off libtards #1
#2 drive it to nearby shows
#3 (newly developed idea ) trailer it to the track which is going to be close by after the wife & I move. I'm looking to run 10s, won't be a problem but just 10s for $$$$$ sake & not have to get recertifications for parts & rebuy stuff for sfi sake

1. Going to be hard to get under 3000 with driver, unless you are about 100 pounds LOL. If you can get it that light, good on you, because that’s tough.

2. You already have the solid set up. I’d run it. Get your ducks in a row on start up and you’ll be fine.

3. I’d use the 4.30’s, but that’s me.

4. I use PTC for converters. Call them and let them pick the converter. I just did a 400 Chevy tunnel ram deal and used a PTC converter they spec’d. 8 inch case, 8 inch stator. It’s a converter they use for drag week. In this car it stalls at a bit over 5100 and drives better on the street than the junk 3800 converter that it replaced.

That’s what I’d do. Don’t skimp on gear or converter. That’s the two biggest combo killers there are.