Yeah I think that's a good plan, most converter companies are saying 4000- 4200 . the cam is a solid flat with 260-264 @.050 so it maybe small for my wanting to get the 9s but I'll only know when I try her out.
My 70 dart thinks she's fat.
- Thread starter MOPARMAGA
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Alright how to do is I guess the question. Do you screw it down on 1 side then heat it to make the curve ?
Mine is .093 thick, easy to bend when using pop rivers.
I cut it to fit & start in the middle working out 2-3 on each side using pop rivets
Thank you for the tip
How did you get gold member status?
I guess 1 of the other thing would be to remove the undercutting as much as possibe
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Look for all the "low hanging fruit" so to speak. All the stuff you can remove or swap out with lighter components. Is it gonna be a street car? You will still need horns to keep it legal. Get a single Hi Note plastic horn off a late model chrysler vehicle, ditch the cast aluminum and steel dual horns.
Move battery to the trunk. It's not removal of weight but is relocation of it.
Get a torch and heat and remove ALL that black asphalt based undercoating /sound deadened in the wheel wells, inside the doors, rear quarters, and under the car. That **** probably adds a good 25-30 lbs to it.
Get some thick aluminum plate. Trace your alternator brackets onto that and cut it out. Ditch the steel for aluminum. Add a circular lightening hole in the middle of the triangular bracket.
Hope this gives you some more helpful ideas.
Move battery to the trunk. It's not removal of weight but is relocation of it.
Get a torch and heat and remove ALL that black asphalt based undercoating /sound deadened in the wheel wells, inside the doors, rear quarters, and under the car. That **** probably adds a good 25-30 lbs to it.
Get some thick aluminum plate. Trace your alternator brackets onto that and cut it out. Ditch the steel for aluminum. Add a circular lightening hole in the middle of the triangular bracket.
Hope this gives you some more helpful ideas.
mopar65
Well-Known Member
Dominic which he goes by Thumper Dart has a Badass 70/71 dart swinger that is his street car. He races it once in awhile. If I remember right he has a pump gas low deck stroker 470. It's been a long time but I think he ran a 9.64 in the 1/4. But it is a true 9 second street car.
I used to have a 73 dart swinger with a .030 over 440. It had wisco flat top pistons, very mild bowl ported indy EZ heads. A Comp Roller version of the mopar 312/590 cam. Weiand Tunnel Ram. 2 750 holley DP carbs, 727 with a 9.5 Dynamic 4400 stall, 8-3/4 with 4.30 gears and M/T 275/60/15 ET street Radials. The car weighed 3520 with me in it and racing on 93 pump gas. I ran 10.59 at 125 in the 1/4. I let my friend race it that weighed a 100 pounds less than me. He ran a few 10.49 at 126 in the 1/4 on the same day. I drove it on the street once in awhile. I think my car would of been faster with the 4.10 but I blew them up on its 5th pass. So I had a set of 4.30 laying around. So I put them in. I also think it would of been faster with a higher stall converter. I did install a 8 inch 5500 stall converter but never got to try it out before I sold it.
I used to have a 73 dart swinger with a .030 over 440. It had wisco flat top pistons, very mild bowl ported indy EZ heads. A Comp Roller version of the mopar 312/590 cam. Weiand Tunnel Ram. 2 750 holley DP carbs, 727 with a 9.5 Dynamic 4400 stall, 8-3/4 with 4.30 gears and M/T 275/60/15 ET street Radials. The car weighed 3520 with me in it and racing on 93 pump gas. I ran 10.59 at 125 in the 1/4. I let my friend race it that weighed a 100 pounds less than me. He ran a few 10.49 at 126 in the 1/4 on the same day. I drove it on the street once in awhile. I think my car would of been faster with the 4.10 but I blew them up on its 5th pass. So I had a set of 4.30 laying around. So I put them in. I also think it would of been faster with a higher stall converter. I did install a 8 inch 5500 stall converter but never got to try it out before I sold it.
Yes, I plan on it being a street car (for now)
And I'll be going thru the car anyways so yeah all that is good ideas
Thumperdart that sounds familiar.
Mine is sitting at 11.2:1 static compression
And my dynamic is 8.68, Hopefully I'll be able to run pump gas. I do have as much aluminum as possible & it should be cool under the hood with the coated fenderwell headers
mopar65
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a nice car. Have any pics of it? My 440 was right at 10.9 compression.
mopar65
Well-Known Member
I dont know if it will play. But here is a video of my old 73 right after me and my friend put 3.5 inch exhaust on it. Damn those Bullet mufflers were loud. Lol also the video was made with my crappy cell phone.
No pics yet, it's just a rust free f4 green dart. Anything ive referenced so far is just what it's going to be based on parts I have.
The engine is getting put together this summer when I get finished with my house & other projects. But I plan on doing a detailed build as I go from start to finish.
You can do a lot of trimming to the k member to lighten it up some and make more clearance room. Just make sure to reweld the seems.
Is there something different about a 67 a-body k-member ? I think I read there's something
Thanks, I thought I heard that. Is there any way to tell ? I got a k-member that is ready for the Schumacher mounts & was going to clean it up but 1st want to make sure I'm not wasting my time
justinp61
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The 68 and later idler mount is two brackets welded to the k member. The idler slips between them with a bolt through the whole deal. IIRC the 67 has a single bracket and there is a ball joint type stud in the arm, if that makes sense. It seems the 67 piece is more expensive than the later ones.
Yes that makes sense thank you ill check in the morning
Here’s a good gutting list, what can be removed or altered to shed weight: Drag Racing Weight Reductions - Ideas, Tips and Resources for saving weight from your race car
Cool thanks bud
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