How does a solid roller cam act vs solid flat tappet

Loose vs tight on converters? Well, loosely speaking (pun intended) it works like......

Let’s say your cam and engine come alive @ 3K RPMs and you want to street drive it as a light to light beast. You want the converter to really get the car and things moving a bit above the low end of the power range of the cam and engine combo. The above example would be approximately 3500 rpm. If your goal is a strip only car, you’ll need to know where leak torque is and hopefully a graph or read out from the dyno to send to the converter company. Along with a lot of other car information. But what they will do is stall the converter (loose) at or slightly above peak torque. This may be in the 4500 - 5500 rpm range. This is displacement and combo related. It really varies to much to zero in on this in general description.

Now if your more of the likings of a double duty daily driver, the company will adjust the converter to be tight and start the car rolling earlier with a tighter or earlier stall of lets just say, 2900 - 3100 but not so much that it is a dog or drags the engine down and hurts performance. It will still stall a bit and not be so efficient until later RPMs.

Such a thing was done on my wife’s car. ‘67 Cuda, 360/904/3.55’s & a 26 inch tire, with a intake duration @.050 of 224. The converter is tight 2400 RPMs.

When I was asked why so tight, I told him the wife wanted to drive this a lot and in various conditions ranging from NYC traffic to the islands East end Hwy @ 70-80 mph. It will see a lot of around town traffic and lights. He agreed it makes sense but did recommend more stall for get up and go.

This thing drives and runs great.

(Thank you Pro Torque!)