choosing the right alternator

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Frodee

Frodee

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Just rewired my 73 Scamp with American Autowire harness and is a one wire to alternator connection so my question is what alternator do I need to install in my car?
I am not smart when it comes to wiring but everything works so a big plus but every alt. I looked at said that I need a external regulator and before I do something stupid I thought I would ask you guys.
 
Tuff stuff and powermaster both make Chrysler, 1 wire alternators. You Just run a thick charge wire right to the positive battery post.

If you are going to run electric fans...may want to look into a GM or denso 1 wire. Mopar alternators don't put out a ton of juice at idle.

Or at the very least...keep a good sized crank pulley on it.

DODGE 5.9L/360 Mopar small block LA Alternators and Generators - Chrysler square back Alternator Case Style - One-Wire Capable - Pulley Included - V-belt Pulley Style
 
Johnny Mac said:
Tuff stuff and powermaster both make Chrysler, 1 wire alternators. You Just run a thick charge wire right to the positive battery post.

If you are going to run electric fans...may want to look into a GM or denso 1 wire. Mopar alternators don't put out a ton of juice at idle.

Or at the very least...keep a good sized crank pulley on it.

DODGE 5.9L/360 Mopar small block LA Alternators and Generators - Chrysler square back Alternator Case Style - One-Wire Capable - Pulley Included - V-belt Pulley Style
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Thanks Johnny will check it out.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Just rewired my 73 Scamp with American Autowire harness and is a one wire to alternator connection so my question is what alternator do I need to install in my car?
I am not smart when it comes to wiring but everything works so a big plus but every alt. I looked at said that I need a external regulator and before I do something stupid I thought I would ask you guys.
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Summit has the Powermaster 75191, single wire internal regulator that puts out 95 amps. I've had good luck with Powermaster so far.
 
crewchief said:
Summit has the Powermaster 75191, single wire internal regulator that puts out 95 amps. I've had good luck with Powermaster so far.
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I looked at that but was wondering what I need because it says { external regulator not included} I am new at wiring so forgive my ignorance just want to do it right.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
I looked at that but was wondering what I need because it says { external regulator not included} I am new at wiring so forgive my ignorance just want to do it right.
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Internal regulator is inside the alternator. it uses 1 wire. External uses a box with a number of wires attached to it. This allows the removal of the external regulator for a cleaner look under the hood.
What are you using? Do you already have an external voltage regulator mounted on the firewall?
Voltage regulator.jpg
 
crewchief said:
Internal regulator is inside the alternator. it uses 1 wire. External uses a box with a number of wires attached to it. This allows the removal of the external regulator for a cleaner look under the hood.
What are you using? Do you already have an external voltage regulator mounted on the firewall?View attachment 1715473867
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Took it off no external regulator so would guess the one wire alternator would go to the battery?
 
No problem, that's why this site is so valuable to all that need help with their rides.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
2 radiator fans is all not much more.
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Guys with the 60 amp Toyota/Denso run fans and report good results. Charge at idle is much better. It does not drop into the factory brackets with out modification but AR Engineering sells drop in brackets. Its smaller and lighter than stock. Do a search there is a lots of write ups on it. It is internally regulated, defeating the stock external. It uses an excite and sense wires plus the charge wire to the alternator. No matter what alternator you do choose run a charge wire to the alternator to take the load off the bulkhead and ammeter. Doing this will reduce the function of the ammeter.
 
Rob makes them and sells them here .crackedback. Same person who Makes the headlight looms.
 
dano said:
Guys with the 60 amp Toyota/Denso run fans and report good results. Charge at idle is much better. It does not drop into the factory brackets with out modification but AR Engineering sells drop in brackets. Its smaller and lighter than stock. Do a search there is a lots of write ups on it. It is internally regulated, defeating the stock external. It uses an excite and sense wires plus the charge wire to the alternator. No matter what alternator you do choose run a charge wire to the alternator to take the load off the bulkhead and ammeter. Doing this will reduce the function of the ammeter.
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Sounds good thanks dano.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Just rewired my 73 Scamp with American Autowire harness and is a one wire to alternator connection so my question is what alternator do I need to install in my car?
I am not smart when it comes to wiring but everything works so a big plus but every alt. I looked at said that I need a external regulator and before I do something stupid I thought I would ask you guys.
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I use a 130 amp chevy alternator, mounted where the orig. fuel pump would be --------------
 
Fred Scigliano said:
I bet that looks good being lower than the stock position.
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Was a necessity , the darn victor knock of heads are way too long to mount it in front of them. Fortunately there is a lot of material there , had to dish the front of the pass side for fasts` short chevy distributor . Why they couldn`t use a chrysler tall one is beyond me . I raised a little hell about it , but you know where that got me .
If anyone ever uses a fast 2.0 system , ''use a MSD dist !"
 
famous bob said:
Was a necessity , the darn victor knock of heads are way too long to mount it in front of them. Fortunately there is a lot of material there , had to dish the front of the pass side for fasts` short chevy distributor . Why they couldn`t use a chrysler tall one is beyond me . I raised a little hell about it , but you know where that got me .
If anyone ever uses a fast 2.0 system , ''use a MSD dist !"
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That's what I like about FABO good info. here.
 
Let’s dust this off shall we? I have a silly question or two...

Using the 1 wire as we know eliminates all of the external charge stuff. That said, can I eliminate the harness from the bulkhead connector that is for all of the external stuff. ie: ballast, voltage regulator, etc? I can’t see where that harness powers anything else. Enlighten me please.

Also, same with the wiper motor harness, correct? I have no wiper motor.

Someone above said the 1 wire will
“reduce” the function of the ammeter. Wouldn’t it be eliminated and thus no need to do the bypass trick?

Thank you from a OE wiring challenged guy!
 
I don't see why you can't eliminate that entire portion of the harness. I was thinking of doing the same thing. Most important though as mentioned, always run a new charging cable from your alternator to the battery (or sufficient battery connection point) Never run a higher than stock amp alternator through the ammeter
 
69cuda440 said:
I don't see why you can't eliminate that entire portion of the harness. I was thinking of doing the same thing. Most important though as mentioned, always run a new charging cable from your alternator to the battery (or sufficient battery connection point) Never run a higher than stock amp alternator through the ammeter
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I am using a Volt guage and didn't hook up an amp guage. Car is now on the road and everything works great.
 
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