Curious- base coat vs acrylic urehane for base

-
barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
20,432
Reaction score
10,024
Location
Shepherd, Texas ( SE Tx)
I admit I have painted all my cars since about '90
in acrylic urethane single stage. I did just one back in '90 is bc/cc system. I am no pro but I have painted a few dozen over the years . Here is what I am wondering.
Going to redo the wife/s car in '69 B3 Blue it as done 5-6 years ago, and I will seal it with epoxy primer, no body work and I want it to have clear coat. She likes more shiny.
I know it an be shot with acrylic urethane single stage and then cleared. Is not the typical 2 stage base coat a urethane plus reducer. Why would not the single stage urethane with its activator not be a more durable base? Is the 2 stage base just easier to lay with the metallic?
I know there are some pro body guys on here!!
 
Yes, single stage can be tough to flow out nice without getting some mottling (Non uniformed) in the metallic.It can be done for sure. Base goes on easy and the clearcoat is good if you need to do a repair on a panel. You can sand your spot repair and the rest of your panel in 1000 Grit. Then blend in your color and clear the whole panel. I think single stage is good for solid colors. I do it with Black cause I think it looks Blackest .
 
Kendog 170 said:
Yes, single stage can be tough to flow out nice without getting some mottling (Non uniformed) in the metallic.It can be done for sure. Base goes on easy and the clearcoat is good if you need to do a repair on a panel. You can sand your spot repair and the rest of your panel in 1000 Grit. Then blend in your color and clear the whole panel. I think single stage is good for solid colors. I do it with Black cause I think it looks Blackest .
Click to expand...
Last car I did in a metallic was in oem maroon whatever the name. Yes it was done in a shed with poor light cheap gun, and not really adequate compressor. Not that I am that skilled but I am lucky. The metallic went good. The single stage is cheaper by enough to make me think about it. I figure the base in the metallic will go better. Today I have a lesser compressor, same cheap gravity guns, and still poor light! Probably need to do the bc/cc.. If it is not right, wife will kick my *** till it is right. lol
 
First and most importantly, Get better lighting. Especially with the color you are using EB3 is a great color but it actually has a decent amount of metallic in it and is subject to tiger striping if not sprayed properly.

Definitely spend the extra money on true base coat as well since you are planing on clear coating anyways. The metallic is a lot easier to fog out with base coat. Also, since it flashes quicker than single stage, you can get it done faster. Also with most base coats, if you decide to wait a day between base and clear, no problem. With single stage, you will need to sand the paint before you clear coat if you let it sit for more than the recommended flash time.

Lastly, if you really want to use SS and then clear, you might should probably use an integrated clear designed for that purpose. It will have a different chemical makeup that allows the single stage to gas off better without risking solvent pop.
 
Single stage paint is fine for a solid or, non metallic color. You can cut and buff it and looks real good. If your shooting a metallic paint then it needs to be base coat/ clear coat. You can't wet sand a single stage metallic, it messes up the flake.
I also keep in mind if it's going to sit outside all the time. If it's going to be outside then it should have a clear on it to protect the paint. A single stage paint will fade pretty quickly if its outside all the time, clearcoat cuts the fading out. I always tell my kids to take care of the paint on their cars...paint protects your car from rusting so protect your paint...
 
The car I am doing is a 62 Lancer, smaller than a duster lets say. Doing the jams, eng. compartment, under truck lid, NOT under side of hood not inside trunk. If I did this while car in single stage, 1/2 gal. urethane (4:1) would do 2 coats for sure. I agree I shold do the bc/c deal. Would 2 qts of base do it????? B3 Ice blue poly. Figuring on a grey epoxy sealer under it.
 
It really depends on the base coat you choose. For example, I would say that is no way near enough if using OmniBase which tends to be watery and more transparent but if you are using Sikkens, that is probably fine although I would personally rather have too much than too little and wouldn't chance it for the difference in price versus getting that extra quart. If you end up using a value line, best bet is to have a gallon mixed since it usually costs about the same as 3 quarts anyways
 
^^^I agree 3 qt always equal 1 gal. cost wise. Yes I was pricing PPG ShopLIine bc/cc . I would buy SPI clear though. I bet you are right it will not over a well as higher priced stuff. I can order TCP Global cheaper, they are just so darn slow, and with the Covid19 slower yet I bet, but is a marathon, not a race!!! I have a 2 horse slant and the hood,etc. to do on another car. It all adds up!!!
I did a 76 Volare RR last fall in the spitfire orange met. in acrylic urethane single stage. Turned out good for met. Took 1/2 gal in AU ShopLine. 2 coats, would have done 3rd coat but my fresh air system was getting fouled and that chit kills me. It turned out pretty good.
 
barbee6043 said:
^^^I agree 3 qt always equal 1 gal. cost wise. Yes I was pricing PPG ShopLIine bc/cc . I would buy SPI clear though. I bet you are right it will not over a well as higher priced stuff. I can order TCP Global cheaper, they are just so darn slow, and with the Covid19 slower yet I bet, but is a marathon, not a race!!! I have a 2 horse slant and the hood,etc. to do on another car. It all adds up!!!
I did a 76 Volare RR last fall in the spitfire orange met. in acrylic urethane single stage. Turned out good for met. Took 1/2 gal in AU ShopLine. 2 coats, would have done 3rd coat but my fresh air system was getting fouled and that chit kills me. It turned out pretty good.
Click to expand...
Let's see it...I had a 77...I like those things!!
 
plymouth67 said:
Let's see it...I had a 77...I like those things!!
Click to expand...

Cheapest Mopar you can buy almost!! The Spitfire orange is a RR 318, the white 79 is a slant.

100_2622.JPG


100_2620.JPG


100_2624.JPG


100_2623.JPG
 
plymouth67 said:
I have thought about trying to get another one.
Click to expand...
My current projects are a 62 Lancer and 62 Dart. I did the body /paint on both last fall, Both good drivers, some new stuff like tires, Am Torq Thrust rad and carbon one of the The White 79 is priced at $4200and the RR at $4700.
99% of the inquiries are : are both them total of $4200. Would you take $2000 and a motorcycle? Are these Chevies!!! lol
The 79 was a never any rust 94000 mi car. The 76 had the usual Tx rust, all cut out and replaced. The 79 has perfect door panels and both have perfect back seats and headliners, both have the usual dash cracks, both need new door weatherstriping. Both has a set of painted rear window louvers I did not install.
Anyway if interested I am glad to discuss them.
 
I had a converation with the Tech guy at Southern Polyurethanes. Like lots of people on here I like their expoxy primer but I have never used their clear. I did pick up some info I was not aware of. S E Tx weather is hoter and more humid than Missouri whereI had spent 37 years playing with all the car stuff.
In a nut shell excessive heat /sunlight will cause topcoats to dry too fast. Be it clear or acrylic urethane. I see they have come out with a super fast reducer and a small amount of a retarder can be added.
I agree the base will be easier to lay down, not that much higher. The costs in bc/cc comes at what quality clear of you use.
A metallic dries faster than a solid.
I am old school but I rather see a 10 or so year old paintj ob in AU faded some, than clear peeling!!!!
 
You do not want to use super fast reducer. You want to use slow reducer and hardener in the hot weather. Slowing the process down allows for the material to flow longer rather than dry up and orange peel. If you use fast reducer/hardener in the hot weather, it may actually dry when spraying and result in a dry/flat looking finish or even the worst orange peel you can imagine - ask me how I know LOL
 
challengergary said:
If you use fast reducer/hardener in the hot weather, it may actually dry when spraying and result in a dry/flat looking finish or even the worst orange peel you can imagine
Click to expand...
I use PPG I sprayed my cars with 85' temp reducer in 70' weather. Lets the paint flow nice. If you don't know what your doing you can flow a lot of runs. Fast reducer I agree as qouted and will not adhere properly and likely lead to peel as paint can't bite to primer if it dries to fast.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I use PPG I sprayed my cars with 85' temp reducer in 70' weather. Lets the paint flow nice. If you don't know what your doing you can flow a lot of runs. Fast reducer I agree as qouted and will not adhere properly and likely lead to peel as paint can't bite to primer if it dries to fast.
Click to expand...
It adhered great but it no doubt went on too dry. It will be Oct. here before there is another 70 degree LOW!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top