U Joint Question

I’ve installed a 360, 727 and 9 inch Ford in my Duster. They all came out of an 81 Pro Street D150. The driveshaft that was in the truck is too long. While it’s getting shortened, I’m going to replace the u joints. From research, they appear to be 7260’s. The cap diameter is 1.078, as it should be. When I measure the width, from the outer side of each c clip groove, side to side, I get 2.210, approximately. The spec I have found is 2.125. The caps are all the way on. What am I missing? I’d include a link to a chart, but I’m on my phone and don’t know how.

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U Joint Question

If you're saying you have a larger yolk then the U-joint and Driveline you can buy a combination U-joint that will I have a 7260 and 7290 to adapt. Napa has it.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UJQUJ347

Thanks for that, Dana67Dart, I'm on my more-familiar laptop now.

No, I don't need a combo, but thanks.

It appears to be an inside clip 7260, with caps measuring 1.078, but the width number is off.

I found a chart that describes what I mean much better than I did. What they call "width" is where I get the 2.210.

I'll ask the driveshaft shop. I'm going there tomorrow, I hope.
https://www.actionmachineinc.com/pages/inside-snap-ring-u-joint-identifier

I may have confused some. The link above to Action Machine Inc. is just for the measurement chart, not where I'm taking the driveshaft. That's hopefully going to be
R-Way Tooling I called today before I went to see if they're open, as I'm an hour away. After getting a voicemail a few times that said they were helping a customer on another line, I left a voicemail. It's been about 8 hours; that customer must need a lot of help!

Well, two voicemails and an email, no response (from R-Way). Back to the drawing board.

Guy just called from R Way. They're "kinda closed, don't do driveshafts anymore". But he gave me the number of a place in the same area as him, (hour away) that I'll try when I get time; hopefully next week.

the 9" is 1310 or 1320 . either way you won't break it . Get a Spicer slip yoke with a 1350 joint . NEVER break that .

I'm not a very good technical writer, but I'll try to convey what I did. Maybe it'll help someone when they search.

One problem is that I don't know what the shaft is from. I took the entire driveline from a D150 Pro Street truck.

I ended up using a combination of 2 Moog 429's and a 7260.

The originals turned out to be 429's. Number is cast into them. Duh. They show as being for early 60's Fords. The 429's are wider overall than the 7260's, but the originals have wider c-clip grooves than the ones I bought to replace them. Thus, the original 429's fit, but the new one's, well, I couldn't get both c-clips in.

I solved the problem on the front by using a 7260. It's caps are 1.062. The holes in the yoke and shaft are 1.078. The caps on the 429 are 1.078 and fit on the 7260. So, I used the 429 caps on the narrower 7260. No problem getting the caps in because the 7260 is narrower. The one thing I don't get is: Why do the 1.078 caps fit the yoke in the trans? I have to figure it's a Mopar yoke, but the 7260's of course, are 1.062, and the other Mopar u-joint is a 7290, which measures 1.125.

I used a 429 in the rear joint. I used 7260 caps where the u joint sits in the yoke. (Ford 9") I couldn't use the 7260 with 429 caps (as in the front joint), because the 7260 joint was too narrow, and wouldn't fit snugly in the pinion yoke. (Between the locating tabs.)
The bugaboo is that I had to use two caps from the original 429's because they have the aforementioned wider c-clip grooves.

So if I ever need a u-joint, I'd have to know where the caps with the wider groove came from. It might be easier to bite the bullet and buy a new shaft if that ever becomes a necessity.

Left to right in pic:
-New 7260 cap.
-New 429 cap. (Marking is from having been installed.)
-Used 429 cap. The one that fits my shaft and has wider grooves than the new 429 cap.