What to do...

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I would say to email them and find out what you are most likely to have. But I would imagine your safe with that converter given that most of them came with dual anti-ballooning plates. If it has dual plates, it probably would have felt like trying to lift a manhole cover.
 
I would say to email them and find out what you are most likely to have. But I would imagine your safe with that converter given that most of them came with dual anti-ballooning plates. If it has dual plates, it probably would have felt like trying to lift a manhole cover.
I don't even have the original order number anymore.. it was in the box, but with moving and everything I haven't been able to find it.
But I did check the website... and

"9 ½" Race/ Street

Features - Dual anti-ballooning plates (where applicable), triple bearing package, full furnace brazing, all fins are hand welded for extra reinforcement, bulletproof sprag and stator design great for bracket cars or serious street cars. Super efficient."
 
What do you guys think, add another degree or 2 of timing? Or leave it?
98CEB4F9-1D5E-4C16-A6F1-92D5A2491550.jpeg
 
If I'm looking at that right your timing mark is almost at the bottom near the threads, I would take 2 deg out not add and if mph slows put it back 1 deg@a time. The top mark shows around 15>16 initial.
 
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More like 24/34. 10 degree bushing. I had the same mph at 32 total as well. But the 1/8 seemed to suffer. Maybe lock it out at 32.
EBEF605E-9CD8-4FDA-83D1-A37DB1D3CA18.jpeg
 
Wouldn't you like to see a little more color? Tad more fuel..
Hear they don't let snowmobiles or motorcycles run with cars but I thought that snowmobile was going to clean your clock LOL... A few I seen around here where 9-10 second sleds..
 
That plug is a single WOT to about 92mph then shutdown. Afr was 12.6-12.9

And I thought the snowmobile was gonna rip as well.

Ive run bikes at the strip..
(Old video)
 
That plug is a single WOT to about 92mph then shutdown. Afr was 12.6-12.9

And I thought the snowmobile was gonna rip as well.

Ive run bikes at the strip..
(Old video)

I think here they take into consideration the safety of the motorcycle as they will not win if a line is crossed..
 
I think here they take into consideration the safety of the motorcycle as they will not win if a line is crossed..
I can see that.. usually during tnt and street drag night stuff they pair bikes with bikes. But during certain races or events they allow it.
Snow mobile was a new one for me though. Lol
 
I can see that.. usually during tnt and street drag night stuff they pair bikes with bikes. But during certain races or events they allow it.
Snow mobile was a new one for me though. Lol
Okay last post off-track LOL but my snowmobile is 160 + horsepower direct fuel injected 2 cylinder 2 stroke. 550 lb. if we had that much horsepower for every 550 lb of our car!!!???..
 
I agree it could be a little fatter with fuel. I also might try 35* locked distributor. Your car would be mid 10's at my track.. my track is 600 ft.
 
29" tire. your time is lost in the 60' it needs to hook.
 
29" tire. your time is lost in the 60' it needs to hook.
That was hooking .. they prepped very well for the event.. I think a 28x9 is about all I'm gonna fit. Trying to keep factory fenderwells.
 
That had crossed my mind. That and a pin on hood. Mainly to offset the weight of a rollbar... Since I'm skating on thin ice.
I have a 73 Duster and taking that front bumper and it's brackets off is a great weight loss off the front. I used unlimited and I really like the front bumper and how it fit. I literally just said it right up on my valise and ended up just drilling five holes and putting five aluminum rivets in it and it looks nice and tight in.. took a couple of flat pieces aluminum and riveted them in the bottom corners to the bottom of the front fender and it has worked out very well... The rear bumper was a swap meet special that was more of a replica of the rear bumper so I had to channel an inch out of each side of the rear to make it fit the car tighter and not be to sails kitting out in the wind on both sides.. LOL..
 
Just looked at Summit they dont show the Trick Flow intake for a small block for sale....yet....
 
A dual plane would be a step backwards with a 4500 stall and that cam. If this were my car I would put more converter in it, a good set of rear adjustable shocks, and start thinking about a trans brake. Get it to leave on the converter and hook and it will ET better. Where is peak torque? Have you had it on a dyno?

i doubt it will Et better using a brake.
I have had more motor than this and car 60 footed and ET’ed identically off foot or brake. If the convertor is right., that will most always be the case.
9 sec, 3350 pound car going 1.34/1.35 either way on leafs
 
I don't even have the original order number anymore.. it was in the box, but with moving and everything I haven't been able to find it.
But I did check the website... and

"9 ½" Race/ Street

Features - Dual anti-ballooning plates (where applicable), triple bearing package, full furnace brazing, all fins are hand welded for extra reinforcement, bulletproof sprag and stator design great for bracket cars or serious street cars. Super efficient."

it will pickup up with a 5000-5200 ish 8 inch convertor. Would bet money on it
 
That had crossed my mind. That and a pin on hood. Mainly to offset the weight of a rollbar... Since I'm skating on thin ice.
You mentioned in your opening post the weight is 3500 lbs with you, being a guess. Any way to weigh it some where, like a truck stop scale? short of that at least weighing everything you remove/replace for a running total. You wanted a smidge more, not sure I saw any mention of what numbers you’re thinking? I’m somewhat on the same quest myself, I want a little more with what I have now. I’ve reduced my vans weight of 3370 lbs down to 3245 lbs and am working on losing another 50 lbs. keeping it fully street looking. I know when I add the weight of a 150 lb passenger for a trip down the 1/8 mile it slowed me down a little over .15 So what everyone says, I’m sure you know yourself, 100 lbs equates to a tenth gained. What lightening have you done up to now?
 
You mentioned in your opening post the weight is 3500 lbs with you, being a guess. Any way to weigh it some where, like a truck stop scale? short of that at least weighing everything you remove/replace for a running total. You wanted a smidge more, not sure I saw any mention of what numbers you’re thinking? I’m somewhat on the same quest myself, I want a little more with what I have now. I’ve reduced my vans weight of 3370 lbs down to 3245 lbs and am working on losing another 50 lbs. keeping it fully street looking. I know when I add the weight of a 150 lb passenger for a trip down the 1/8 mile it slowed me down a little over .15 So what everyone says, I’m sure you know yourself, 100 lbs equates to a tenth gained. What lightening have you done up to now?
Almost none... Got rid of the heavy bumper brace in the front, aftermarket seats and no rear seat, qa1 controls arms, caltrac rear suspension (I would think that stuff is negligible but there seems to be a small weight difference. Looks wise I'm just going for weekend warrior type look, but I'd rather have function. I'm going off the stock weight...3150ish+frame connectors75+me 330lbs...
Honestly if I can get it into the lower 11s NA up at my home track, it would be extremely competitive for basic shootouts or grudge night stuff. Once I get it sorted na I might add a 100-150shot, but not until I have more safety equipment.
 
Was the cam degreed when installed? How did you arrive at the 7000 rpm shift point? My 408 had a 260/264 .050" .690"ish lift flat solid cam, well ported Edelbrocks with a port matched Victor, 10.8-1, 3260# with 4.10 gears. It liked being shifted at 6400, anything over 6600 or under 6400 it lost et.


IMO, You've been offered good advice on the converter and Victor intake. Your 60' is off close to .15 and I'm not sure a converter will get it all. A Victor may help with the soft bottom end.
 
Was the cam degreed when installed? How did you arrive at the 7000 rpm shift point? My 408 had a 260/264 .050" .690"ish lift flat solid cam, well ported Edelbrocks with a port matched Victor, 10.8-1, 3260# with 4.10 gears. It liked being shifted at 6400, anything over 6600 or under 6400 it lost et.


IMO, You've been offered good advice on the converter and Victor intake. Your 60' is off close to .15 and I'm not sure a converter will get it all. A Victor may help with the soft bottom end.
No I didn't have a degree wheel when I put it together.
I incrementally increased shift points and ended at 7000 when I ran out of time..
11.75 @6000rpm 115mph 28 total timing
11.70 @6500rpm 116mph 30 total timing
11.64@6900ish 117.73mph just tapping the rev limiter with 32 total timing
11.57@7000 with limiter removed 117.78mph with 34 total timing
All runs within a couple of hours of each other and 7000+ DA, I figured the 32-34 is gonna be where my max timing is since the mph didn't change with the same shift points.
 
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