True Bracket Car vs True Street Car....

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318willrun

318willrun

Utube channel 318willrun
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Just my opinion... I've seen so many times where true bracket racers, I mean dedicated bracket racers or life long bracket racers, look at a true street car questions and give bracket car advice, namely the 60 ft. The difference?
  • True Bracket car - most have 4.30 - 5.13 gears, 3800 - 5200 stall, gutted, and run from 12.50 - 9 flat. Usually 60 ft hard and cross the big end touching their redline or 200 rpms's above. Primary goal? - Consistency and going round after round
  • True Street car - Most have 3.91 - 2.76 gears, 3800 - 1800 stall, all steel with full interior, run from 17.00 - 12.00. Usually 60 ft soft, and mph is high for the ET. Primary goal? - Reliability and fun to cruise for lengths at time.
Of course, there are always exceptions to the rules, but generally speaking......... JMO
 
stroked340 said:
It's nice to own an exception:D:D
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I’m after the sleeper street driven drag vehicle that runs as fast as I can get it to. The true bracket stuff I’m not so sure of, backing off to get a win does not compute, doesn’t interest me, so maybe that is another exception?:eek:
 
stroked340 said:
It's nice to own an exception:D:D
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fishmens67 said:
finally something you and I can agree on. :thumbsup:
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Just asking, because I don't know. Do both of your cars fall into the "True street car" meaning you could hop in on a hot day and go for a 1 hour cruise at 60 mph? Or maybe just take a 500 mile vacation in it? Or are they set up like a bracket car that happens to be "street legal". Big difference.
*By the way, so not to lose my original point was bracket racers give bracket racing advice to true street cars......
 
I have to say 318willrun is in the exception category, he puts down nice ET's with less with a true street car.
Can't wait to see what he does with his truck.
 
I'm planning on driving an exception...

69Dart.jpeg


* All steel
* Full interior
* Reliable and fun to cruise for lengths at a time
* 380-horse 360 crate motor (but I want to get about 450+ horsepower out of it)
* 4.30 gears
* 200-4R OD lockup tranny...the .67 OD is going to make those 4.30 gears into 2.88s when in OD on the freeway
 
ocdart said:
I'm planning on driving an exception...

View attachment 1715548429

* All steel
* Full interior
* Reliable and fun to cruise for lengths at a time
* 380-horse 360 crate motor (but I want to get about 450+ horsepower out of it)
* 4.30 gears
* 200-4R OD lockup tranny...the .67 OD is going to make those 4.30 gears into 2.88s when in OD on the freeway
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OD really helps the street purpose while keeping some gears to make the 60 ft smile :)
 
fishmens67 said:
I have to say 318willrun is in the exception category, he puts down nice ET's with less with a true street car.
Can't wait to see what he does with his truck.
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But more or less, I see the dedicated bracket racers on this site look at a street car ET (anyone's car), and say "you could drop XX if you get your 60 ft down". Seems bracket racers have more of that for an answer. For instance, my 318 Duster did high 14's at just about 95 mph and instantly the 2.2 60 ft was the topic. I'm asking is it hard for them to "think" with 2.76 gears, stock converter, and a 318 in a full weight car that it's probably not going to push better without the help of a converter and gears - which is moving towards "bracket racing" set up. LOL... Maybe I'm just being confusing and not making sense.. :D :D Could be... I don't know
 
ocdart said:
* 380-horse 360 crate motor (but I want to get about 450+ horsepower out of it)
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Mill and fully port those heads!
If your pockets are deep enough, go for a 5spd manual....
Just sayin.... Deep first gear and a OD 5th....
Yea baby!
 
318willrun said:
Just asking, because I don't know. Do both of your cars fall into the "True street car" meaning you could hop in on a hot day and go for a 1 hour cruise at 60 mph? Or maybe just take a 500 mile vacation in it? Or are they set up like a bracket car that happens to be "street legal". Big difference.
*By the way, so not to lose my original point was bracket racers give bracket racing advice to true street cars......
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Mines a little of both 360 w/"stock crank" but 10.5 to 1 pistons good size cam, good dual-plane intake, out of the box Edelbrock heads bought them bare and had them built,headers good exhaust(all the way out back) built 904 tranny full manual v.b. 3800 stall converter,8 3/4 4.30 gears w/spool.car is all steel except fibreglass hood,full interior weights 3120 and yes it could cruise for an hour or more,have taken it a few times but I like racing so its primarily what I do with her,it runs 11.70's 1.50's 60' on drag radials:D:D
 
318willrun said:
But more or less, I see the dedicated bracket racers on this site look at a street car ET (anyone's car), and say "you could drop XX if you get your 60 ft down". Seems bracket racers have more of that for an answer. For instance, my 318 Duster did high 14's at just about 95 mph and instantly the 2.2 60 ft was the topic. I'm asking is it hard for them to "think" with 2.76 gears, stock converter, and a 318 in a full weight car that it's probably not going to push better without the help of a converter and gears - which is moving towards "bracket racing" set up. LOL... Maybe I'm just being confusing and not making sense.. :D :D Could be... I don't know
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No, I think you got it right. 318WR’s comment I find exacting. When you own a true 100% street car, (or 99.99%) then you want to add some power & not change the rear gears or get an expensive converter, the 60ft. time are always slow. Which isn’t a big deal to the guy driving it everyday or 3 days a week. That person just wants some power to make a 14, 13 or 12 second time slip and enjoy it as is.
 
stroked340 said:
Mines a little of both 360 w/"stock crank" but 10.5 to 1 pistons good size cam, good dual-plane intake, out of the box Edelbrock heads bought them bare and had them built,headers good exhaust(all the way out back) built 904 tranny full manual v.b. 3800 stall converter,8 3/4 4.30 gears w/spool.car is all steel except fibreglass hood,full interior weights 3120 and yes it could cruise for an hour or more,have taken it a few times but I like racing so its primarily what I do with her,it runs 11.70's on drag radials:D:D
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Would you travel 6 hours or more in it i one shot? Go far like to Carlie?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Would you travel 6 hours or more in it i one shot? Go far like to Carlie?
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Never tried it..never had to that's what I have a trailer for..( way too much time,sweat and money in to it to take a chance of letting some moron plow into it
 
Gotta have both style cars. I cheated and bought a 2015 Challenger, which is awesome on vacation and I have the 1978 Challenger as a racer.
 
sst3193 said:
Gotta have both style cars. I cheated and bought a 2015 Challenger, which is awesome on vacation and I have the 1978 Challenger as a racer.
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But the new Challengers have great mph and a "lesser" 60 ft compared to the MPH they put on the score board.
 
rumblefish360 said:
No, I think you got it right. 318WR’s comment I find exacting. When you own a true 100% street car, (or 99.99%) then you want to add some power & not change the rear gears or get an expensive converter, the 60ft. time are always slow. Which isn’t a big deal to the guy driving it everyday or 3 days a week. That person just wants some power to make a 14, 13 or 12 second time slip and enjoy it as is.
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So true, not much on the low end , but watch out at 3000 rpm, like a rocket ship from that point on, hang on buddy. I remember those days.
 
Maximizing 60' improves ET. OD lets you have both gears for dual purpose. Low first gear helps some. Launch rpm, pump shot and nozzle size also have a role and takes a lot of testing most people don't do. I personally don't care for bracket racing but do compete when the weather is ideal. Faster cars running the fender and slamming the brakes is not real racing. When I run a faster car I dial tight and won't lift. If your car can 60' and get out in front you have a good chance to get the other lane to breakout.
 
mderoy340 said:
Maximizing 60' improves ET. OD lets you have both gears for dual purpose. Low first gear helps some. Launch rpm, pump shot and nozzle size also have a role and takes a lot of testing most people don't do. I personally don't care for bracket racing but do compete when the weather is ideal. Faster cars running the fender and slamming the brakes is not real racing. When I run a faster car I dial tight and won't lift. If your car can 60' and get out in front you have a good chance to get the other lane to breakout.
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a lot of sandbaggers... LOL. For them, reaction time and consistency keeps them moving round to round. I'm a "test-n-tuner" but occasionally I'm forced to run in trophy.
 
I agree with 318 , and that is why I almost always preface my comments with "for a streeter".... cuz street is all I know.
And I agree with those who make the case for overdrive; it makes hitting all the bases so much easier.
Overdrive is a real game-changer for a streeter, and especially for a DD.
My car is a 367 streeter, with over 400hp (433 by the Trapspeed), yet with the overdrive, it has been a great DD, and I would drive it anywhere anytime, with Zero changes.It stopped being my DD a lotta years ago, about the time it hit 100,000 miles.
I wouldn't say the OD was the best thing I ever spent money on, but, but it would be a close second to some. I think the 8.7Dcr is probably the best.
 
I like TNT. Nothin to worry about, just me and my ride.
 
318's assessment is not far off. I have had both, they are each fun in their own way. I had a 1989 fox body in the early 90's, with a 5.0 and 5 speed. It would run 12.90's with slicks bolted on, and drive it there and back. The real hassle of the car was it was a pain to drive in our Oregon winters. With no traction control, it would spin tires at the wrong time on the wet pavement, certainly not the safest thing to drive year round. I transitioned into a full bracket, back halfed fox with a 351 Windsor, with solid roller cam, and TFS heads. The thing ran 10.20's at 132. I had the delay box, but insisted on not running an air shifter like many in the Super Pro class. While I enjoyed the speed, and won more rounds in that car, there was a point where it was about consistency more then going fast. At that point I made the choice to hang it up. Now that I am building my Challenger, it may see the strip a couple of times just to see what it will do, but that's is about it. It should be faster then my old street Mustang, but I really don't care too much if it is. It will be my summer time fun car, and I'll be happy with that.
 
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318willrun said:
But more or less, I see the dedicated bracket racers on this site look at a street car ET (anyone's car), and say "you could drop XX if you get your 60 ft down". Seems bracket racers have more of that for an answer. For instance, my 318 Duster did high 14's at just about 95 mph and instantly the 2.2 60 ft was the topic. I'm asking is it hard for them to "think" with 2.76 gears, stock converter, and a 318 in a full weight car that it's probably not going to push better without the help of a converter and gears - which is moving towards "bracket racing" set up. LOL... Maybe I'm just being confusing and not making sense.. :D :D Could be... I don't know
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No your right, the mindset of long time brkt racers have in their mind certain 60's that go with an ET/mph and judge things in that manner, I do as well. A street guy just looks at the ET generally, 60 and mph is not of such importance, but they are the things that tell you how good a set up you have and how much power your making. Most of us have gone through the street set up and moved on to more of a race set up with the learning curve that brings.
To give an example, my 340 car was street/strip when I bought it, hdrs/cam/intake/carb, stock 3.55's, a B&M S-holeshot (3500) and I drove it to the track/exhausts off and 26" slicks on, and then home. Car ran what your running (pre heads) with 2.76's etc. etc...in the 13.3's@3550lbs, it was still true street for me. In went an SFT cam, a 4200stall, 4.30's and 28's a bigger carb/race hdrs for the track, was still streetable apart from back then there were no 28>30" street tyres and highway stuff was not good rpm wise so it became 95% track only. But those mods on gear/converter gained me 4/10ths alone, the rest (.5 sec) was down to the extra hp, best 12.39@108. So there you have it, unless you've been there and done that and got the t-shirt your gonna get those type responses as its in the mind of most as the way forward. Also we don't use 2 gears down the track with a 904/727.
 
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