Wilwood brake install 1975 dart

Currently stuck in an install trying to install wilwood brakes on a 1975 Dodge Dart I’ve tried it every which way did it exactly the way the manual said and for some reason it still rubs on the caliper bracket was wondering has anyone else had this problem and if yes please tell me what I’m doing wrong

Gonna need more info. What spindles are you using? What wilwood kit?

Pictures would be super helpful!

72bluNblu said:

Gonna need more info. What spindles are you using? What wilwood kit?

Pictures would be super helpful!

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I don’t have pictures but it’s going on a 75 dart spindle and it’s a willwood Dynalite big brake kit

Owen Diaz said:

Currently stuck in an install trying to install wilwood brakes on a 1975 Dodge Dart I’ve tried it every which way did it exactly the way the manual said and for some reason it still rubs on the caliper bracket was wondering has anyone else had this problem and if yes please tell me what I’m doing wrong

Click to expand...

Which manual and what still rubs on the caliper bracket? Post pic's please.

Owen Diaz said:

I don’t have pictures but it’s going on a 75 dart spindle and it’s a willwood Dynalite big brake kit

Click to expand...

Disk or drum spindle? Could still be either in ‘75.

The part number of the kit would be very helpful. The problem is that there are several different spindles that have Wilwood kits available, and if you’re trying to use the wrong kit for the spindle you have it won’t work properly because of changes in the wheel bearing and spindle diameter. For example, there are two different 10” disk brake spindles, and they use different wheel bearings.

72bluNblu said:

Disk or drum spindle? Could still be either in ‘75.

The part number of the kit would be very helpful. The problem is that there are several different spindles that have Wilwood kits available, and if you’re trying to use the wrong kit for the spindle you have it won’t work properly because of changes in the wheel bearing and spindle diameter. For example, there are two different 10” disk brake spindles, and they use different wheel bearings.

Click to expand...

Disc spindle
And part number is 114-11547

jbc426 said:

Which manual and what still rubs on the caliper bracket? Post pic's please.

Click to expand...

Rotors still run on caliper bracket and wilwood brings an instruction manual

Owen Diaz said:

Disc spindle
And part number is 114-11547

Click to expand...

Owen Diaz said:

Rotors still run on caliper bracket and wilwood brings an instruction manual

View attachment 1715547775

Click to expand...

So 140-11547?

That kit is specifically for a magnumforce 2” drop spindle. Are you running them?

I’ve run the magnumforce drop spindles myself in the past for a bit with stock Mopar disks, so, I know they use all the same wheel bearings and stuff as the stock 73+ disks. And I know the stock caliper brackets work with those spindles. But, there are differences between the margnumforce spindle and the factory ones (obviously). It could be that the caliper bracket position is slightly different, which may be causing the issue.

Have you called wilwood? Or magnumforce? Somebody must know why that kit is specific to those spindles.

Ok, so I did a little internet research. There are different kits for the Magnumforce spindle (140-11547) and the stock 73+ disk spindle (140-15468). The only difference between those kits is the caliper brackets and the caliper bracket bolts. It's right in the part #'s listed for the kits, and you can even see a difference in the brackets in the pictures on Wilwood's website.

Now, WHY is there a difference? Not sure. I would guess that the Magnumforce spindle is a little thinner where the caliper brackets mount, and based on the picture maybe the caliper bracket mounting location is slightly different. It's not enough of a difference to cause problems for the stock disks, the factory tolerances are fairly loose and the stock calipers are floating. Which means a small difference in the position of the caliper bracket isn't a big deal, it can be absorbed by the distance the caliper can float as long as it's not too far out of whack. The Wilwoods are fixed calipers, so, if Wilwood didn't give themselves enough room then a small change in the caliper bracket location could cause interference. So, two different kits with different caliper brackets.



140-15468


140-11547

What the kit number your putting on, I have a 71 scamp and they had it listed as a b body car.

Which kit? For factory drum brake spindles? If so what spindles do you have? For 9" or 10" drums?
Any pictures of your setup?

72bluNblu said:

Ok, so I did a little internet research. There are different kits for the Magnumforce spindle (140-11547) and the stock 73+ disk spindle (140-15468). The only difference between those kits is the caliper brackets and the caliper bracket bolts. It's right in the part #'s listed for the kits, and you can even see a difference in the brackets in the pictures on Wilwood's website.

Now, WHY is there a difference? Not sure. I would guess that the Magnumforce spindle is a little thinner where the caliper brackets mount, and based on the picture maybe the caliper bracket mounting location is slightly different. It's not enough of a difference to cause problems for the stock disks, the factory tolerances are fairly loose and the stock calipers are floating. Which means a small difference in the position of the caliper bracket isn't a big deal, it can be absorbed by the distance the caliper can float as long as it's not too far out of whack. The Wilwoods are fixed calipers, so, if Wilwood didn't give themselves enough room then a small change in the caliper bracket location could cause interference. So, two different kits with different caliper brackets.

View attachment 1715547897

140-15468
View attachment 1715547906

140-11547
View attachment 1715547907

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I just found that out and came to post it I am now returning it and thinking if I should either buy the right part of look for something else you guys have any suggestions, I’ve got manual brakes with 15/16 doctor diff master cylinder I recently bought I’m trying to give the car some stopping power but not too sure on what route to go

72bluNblu said:

Ok, so I did a little internet research. There are different kits for the Magnumforce spindle (140-11547) and the stock 73+ disk spindle (140-15468). The only difference between those kits is the caliper brackets and the caliper bracket bolts. It's right in the part #'s listed for the kits, and you can even see a difference in the brackets in the pictures on Wilwood's website.

Now, WHY is there a difference? Not sure. I would guess that the Magnumforce spindle is a little thinner where the caliper brackets mount, and based on the picture maybe the caliper bracket mounting location is slightly different. It's not enough of a difference to cause problems for the stock disks, the factory tolerances are fairly loose and the stock calipers are floating. Which means a small difference in the position of the caliper bracket isn't a big deal, it can be absorbed by the distance the caliper can float as long as it's not too far out of whack. The Wilwoods are fixed calipers, so, if Wilwood didn't give themselves enough room then a small change in the caliper bracket location could cause interference. So, two different kits with different caliper brackets.

View attachment 1715547897

140-15468
View attachment 1715547906

140-11547
View attachment 1715547907

Click to expand...

But I do appreciate you going out of your way to help out

It really depends on what you want to do with the car. For a street car I like the reliability of the factory brakes.

With your 73+ disk spindles you can use the later B/R body 11.75” disks, they use all stock parts and with 2.75” piston calipers they work really well on an A body. I ran them on my Challenger on the street for 70k+ miles with 275/40/17’s up front, that car stopped very well. And I ran them on my Duster before I upgraded again to DoctorDiff’s 13” cobra style brakes. The 11.75 factory disks are a great brake set up. Yes, they’re heavier than Wilwoods. But on the street that doesn’t matter. And you can get the parts just about anywhere, which can matter for a frequent driver. They work fine with 15” rims too.

I also really like the 13” DoctorDiff cobra style disks I have on my Duster. They stop the car really well and have a good feel with the 15/16” master cylinder. But they require a 17” wheel, minimum.

Full disclosure, I am not a fan of Wilwood. Their mopar hubs have a 3.05” hub register, which is even larger than the already large stock hubs and limits your wheel selection pretty significantly. I don’t like the safety wired stuff on the street either. And frankly, they’re pretty expensive for what they do. I’d much rather give my money to DoctorDiff, so that’s exactly what I do.

72bluNblu said:

It really depends on what you want to do with the car. For a street car I like the reliability of the factory brakes.

With your 73+ disk spindles you can use the later B/R body 11.75” disks, they use all stock parts and with 2.75” piston calipers they work really well on an A body. I ran them on my Challenger on the street for 70k+ miles with 275/40/17’s up front, that car stopped very well. And I ran them on my Duster before I upgraded again to DoctorDiff’s 13” cobra style brakes. The 11.75 factory disks are a great brake set up. Yes, they’re heavier than Wilwoods. But on the street that doesn’t matter. And you can get the parts just about anywhere, which can matter for a frequent driver. They work fine with 15” rims too.

I also really like the 13” DoctorDiff cobra style disks I have on my Duster. They stop the car really well and have a good feel with the 15/16” master cylinder. But they require a 17” wheel, minimum.

Full disclosure, I am not a fan of Wilwood. Their mopar hubs have a 3.05” hub register, which is even larger than the already large stock hubs and limits your wheel selection pretty significantly. I don’t like the safety wired stuff on the street either. And frankly, they’re pretty expensive for what they do. I’d much rather give my money to DoctorDiff, so that’s exactly what I do.

Click to expand...

I bought the car in January it’s more or less a track set up with a 360 with 292 cams .508 lift ,demon double pump carb, Edelbrock intake manifold, 3800 stall converter,904 transmission, reverse manual valve body, 4.10 gears I’m trying to bring the car closer to a street set up since I live in the city so if you have any tips on how I can do that please feel free to educate I’m looking at getting 17 inch wheels so those cobra brakes might be able to work for me

Owen Diaz said:

I bought the car in January it’s more or less a track set up with a 360 with 292 cams .508 lift ,demon double pump carb, Edelbrock intake manifold, 3800 stall converter,904 transmission, reverse manual valve body, 4.10 gears I’m trying to bring the car closer to a street set up since I live in the city so if you have any tips on how I can do that please feel free to educate I’m looking at getting 17 inch wheels so those cobra brakes might be able to work for me

Click to expand...

Trying to convert a track car back to the street can be complicated. Is this your cam? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-672-4

If it is, then I'm sure you're finding that a 292/299 duration cam with a 3,000-6,600 power band and a 3,800 stall convertor isn't super street friendly. But depending on your engine's compression ratio it won't be so easy as just swapping the cam and convertor. Going to a smaller cam might cause detonation, so then you'd have to look at possibly lowering the compression ratio. Like I said, it can get complicated. Then there's the reverse manual valve body, which isn't exactly daily driver material IMO. Honestly, you'd probably be better off starting a whole new thread on what to do to make that engine more streetable.

And it really depends on what your goals are. My Duster has a 276/284 duration, .513/.533 lift cam with a 9.8:1, .060" over 340. I ran it with 3.55 gears for awhile, but those weren't really enough. So now it has 4.30's, but with a T56 6 speed transmission so I can still run around on the freeway. Even my engine is a little hot for how I use my car, which is my daily driver. For a weekend car it would be awesome, but as a daily that sees commute traffic it can sometimes get to be a little much. Not enough that I'm going to change it though. But you see the point, what works great on the track isn't so great on the street, what you can get away with on a weekend fun car is different than what you want for a daily driver, etc.

Suspension is the same, you probably have small torsion bars and really stiff rear springs. Which is great for a track only set up. But on the street it means piss-poor handling, which isn't good. But depending on what you've got now it could mean replacing a lot of the suspension components you have. Again, it depends on what you want. If it's street/strip you'd want something different than if you want to make it a corner carver. You could get a whole giant thread going just on suspension too. Or you could start your own build thread and work on all the different topics there.

As for the DoctorDiff Cobra style brakes, I really like them. They use the Mustang Cobra style PBR calipers with a C5 Corvette rotor and aluminum hub. All the parts except for the hub are from production cars, so, tried and tested and readily available. I run them with DoctorDiff's 11.7" rear disks, with 275/35/18's up front and 295/35/18's out back. I've had them on my car for about 6 years now, never had an issue with them.

Would that tire/ rim size fit on any A body and I think the compression ratio is 10-1 or atleast that’s what I was told, it has Keith black flat top pistons in it and bored .40 over I do plan on putting about 2500 into my suspension work cause I did want the car to be able to handle a bit but that might come after the paint job cause the cars in pretty rough shape right now but how’d you get the t56 on there? cause with that I’d definitely be able to cruise on the highway but with the current 904 I have in the car I’m not sure I’d be able to do that

72bluNblu said:

Trying to convert a track car back to the street can be complicated. Is this your cam? COMP Cams Nostalgia Plus Camshafts 20-672-4

If it is, then I'm sure you're finding that a 292/299 duration cam with a 3,000-6,600 power band and a 3,800 stall convertor isn't super street friendly. But depending on your engine's compression ratio it won't be so easy as just swapping the cam and convertor. Going to a smaller cam might cause detonation, so then you'd have to look at possibly lowering the compression ratio. Like I said, it can get complicated. Then there's the reverse manual valve body, which isn't exactly daily driver material IMO. Honestly, you'd probably be better off starting a whole new thread on what to do to make that engine more streetable.

And it really depends on what your goals are. My Duster has a 276/284 duration, .513/.533 lift cam with a 9.8:1, .060" over 340. I ran it with 3.55 gears for awhile, but those weren't really enough. So now it has 4.30's, but with a T56 6 speed transmission so I can still run around on the freeway. Even my engine is a little hot for how I use my car, which is my daily driver. For a weekend car it would be awesome, but as a daily that sees commute traffic it can sometimes get to be a little much. Not enough that I'm going to change it though. But you see the point, what works great on the track isn't so great on the street, what you can get away with on a weekend fun car is different than what you want for a daily driver, etc.

Suspension is the same, you probably have small torsion bars and really stiff rear springs. Which is great for a track only set up. But on the street it means piss-poor handling, which isn't good. But depending on what you've got now it could mean replacing a lot of the suspension components you have. Again, it depends on what you want. If it's street/strip you'd want something different than if you want to make it a corner carver. You could get a whole giant thread going just on suspension too. Or you could start your own build thread and work on all the different topics there.

As for the DoctorDiff Cobra style brakes, I really like them. They use the Mustang Cobra style PBR calipers with a C5 Corvette rotor and aluminum hub. All the parts except for the hub are from production cars, so, tried and tested and readily available. I run them with DoctorDiff's 11.7" rear disks, with 275/35/18's up front and 295/35/18's out back. I've had them on my car for about 6 years now, never had an issue with them.
View attachment 1715548098
View attachment 1715548099

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Mopar Perf. ''Purple Shaft'' Hydraulic Camshaft Kit
this is the cam I’ve got in it

Owen Diaz said:

Would that tire/ rim size fit on any A body and I think the compression ratio is 10-1 or atleast that’s what I was told, it has Keith black flat top pistons in it and bored .40 over I do plan on putting about 2500 into my suspension work cause I did want the car to be able to handle a bit but that might come after the paint job cause the cars in pretty rough shape right now but how’d you get the t56 on there? cause with that I’d definitely be able to cruise on the highway but with the current 904 I have in the car I’m not sure I’d be able to do that

Click to expand...

You can fit 275's on the front of your '68 Dart if you run 18" rims. You need about 6" of backspace to do it with the 73+ brakes, other brake packages may change the track width which changes the backspace needed. In the back though you won't be able to run anything that wide. Dusters/Demons/Dart Sports/Barracuda's are about 1" wider in the back than Dart's are. With the stock spring locations about the most you can do is a 255, and even that's a stretch on some of the pre-'70 Darts. If you run a 1/2" spring offset kit you can run 275's. Bigger than that requires a full 3" spring relocation and mini-tub.

The T56 is a TON of work. New crossmember, new transmission tunnel, lots of fabrication. Plus almost $7k the way I did it with a brand new transmission. My T56 install is covered in my build thread, as is most of the stuff I've done to my car. Page 12 pretty much takes care of the T56 install
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head

Owen Diaz said:

Mopar Perf. ''Purple Shaft'' Hydraulic Camshaft Kit
this is the cam I’ve got in it

Click to expand...

That one should actually be more streetable than the other one I thought it was. I still don't think that's a good candidate for a daily driver, but for a weekend car that would be manageable. If your compression really is 10:1 though it will be harder to go to a smaller cam if that's something you want to do because 10:1 is pretty much the max for pump gas, and if you go to a smaller cam you could end up with detonation. I have a few degrees of timing pulled on my engine to keep it happy with the 91 octane blends here. There are ways around that (thicker head gaskets being the easiest) but it depends on what your plans are.

If it is, then I'm sure you're finding that a 292/299 duration cam with a 3,000-6,600 power band and a 3,800 stall convertor isn't super street friendly. But depending on your engine's compression ratio it won't be so easy as just swapping the cam and convertor. Going to a smaller cam might cause detonation, so then you'd have to look at possibly lowering the compression ratio. Like I said, it can get complicated. Then there's the reverse manual valve body, which isn't exactly daily driver material IMO. Honestly, you'd probably be better off starting a whole new thread on what to do to make that engine more streetable.

And it really depends on what your goals are. My Duster has a 276/284 duration, .513/.533 lift cam with a 9.8:1, .060" over 340. I ran it with 3.55 gears for awhile, but those weren't really enough. So now it has 4.30's, but with a T56 6 speed transmission so I can still run around on the freeway. Even my engine is a little hot for how I use my car, which is my daily driver. For a weekend car it would be awesome, but as a daily that sees commute traffic it can sometimes get to be a little much. Not enough that I'm going to change it though. But you see the point, what works great on the track isn't so great on the street, what you can get away with on a weekend fun car is different than what you want for a daily driver, etc.

Suspension is the same, you probably have small torsion bars and really stiff rear springs. Which is great for a track only set up. But on the street it means piss-poor handling, which isn't good. But depending on what you've got now it could mean replacing a lot of the suspension components you have. Again, it depends on what you want. If it's street/strip you'd want something different than if you want to make it a corner carver. You could get a whole giant thread going just on suspension too. Or you could start your own build thread and work on all the different topics there.

As for the DoctorDiff Cobra style brakes, I really like them. They use the Mustang Cobra style PBR calipers with a C5 Corvette rotor and aluminum hub. All the parts except for the hub are from production cars, so, tried and tested and readily available. I run them with DoctorDiff's 11.7" rear disks, with 275/35/18's up front and 295/35/18's out back. I've had them on my car for about 6 years now, never had an issue with them.
View attachment 1715548098
View attachment 1715548099[/QUOTE]
https://www.manciniracing.com/hyd292292dur.html
this is the cam I’ve got in it

72bluNblu said:

You can fit 275's on the front of your '68 Dart if you run 18" rims. You need about 6" of backspace to do it with the 73+ brakes, other brake packages may change the track width which changes the backspace needed. In the back though you won't be able to run anything that wide. Dusters/Demons/Dart Sports/Barracuda's are about 1" wider in the back than Dart's are. With the stock spring locations about the most you can do is a 255, and even that's a stretch on some of the pre-'70 Darts. If you run a 1/2" spring offset kit you can run 275's. Bigger than that requires a full 3" spring relocation and mini-tub.

The T56 is a TON of work. New crossmember, new transmission tunnel, lots of fabrication. Plus almost $7k the way I did it with a brand new transmission. My T56 install is covered in my build thread, as is most of the stuff I've done to my car. Page 12 pretty much takes care of the T56 install
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head



That one should actually be more streetable than the other one I thought it was. I still don't think that's a good candidate for a daily driver, but for a weekend car that would be manageable. If your compression really is 10:1 though it will be harder to go to a smaller cam if that's something you want to do because 10:1 is pretty much the max for pump gas, and if you go to a smaller cam you could end up with detonation. I have a few degrees of timing pulled on my engine to keep it happy with the 91 octane blends here. There are ways around that (thicker head gaskets being the easiest) but it depends on what your plans are.

Click to expand...

Alright so rim size I can only really go 17x7 or 18x7 in the front and 17x8 or 18x8 In the rear? I read up on the t56 and saw your thread I see it’s a lot of work I’m not sure if I’m ready to do as of now my goal is to make it into a street car but I still want it to be pushing more or less 400 hp which from what the former owner told me is what it’s pushing now but I also want to be able to go on cruises on the highway and not have to worry about the car sitting at 3500 rpms so yea that’s something I’m going to have to figure out whether I should sell the engine and tranny and start a new build or learn to work with what I have but I also want the car to have a good lowered stance and handle decently I know these cars weren’t necessarily built to handle but I’m sure eventually I’ll get to a place where I could feel comfortable taking corners it’s definitely gonna be a weekend/ week night car for now

Owen Diaz said:

Alright so rim size I can only really go 17x7 or 18x7 in the front and 17x8 or 18x8 In the rear? I read up on the t56 and saw your thread I see it’s a lot of work I’m not sure if I’m ready to do as of now my goal is to make it into a street car but I still want it to be pushing more or less 400 hp which from what the former owner told me is what it’s pushing now but I also want to be able to go on cruises on the highway and not have to worry about the car sitting at 3500 rpms so yea that’s something I’m going to have to figure out whether I should sell the engine and tranny and start a new build or learn to work with what I have but I also want the car to have a good lowered stance and handle decently I know these cars weren’t necessarily built to handle but I’m sure eventually I’ll get to a place where I could feel comfortable taking corners it’s definitely gonna be a weekend/ week night car for now

Click to expand...

If you don't want to cut, roll, or move anything my suggestion would be either 17x8's or 18x8's front and rear. With those you could run 245/45/17's or 245/40/18's all the way around. You can go bigger up front, but in the back anything bigger than a 245 starts cutting it close as far as rolling and trimming things, and it does depend on the body tolerances of your car.

In the front you'd want between 5.25" and 5.6" backspace on the 17x8's. If you went 18x8's you could run 5.25" to about 6", the 18's clear the inner tie rod so you can run more backspace than 17's. That would be for the 73+ based mopar disks, other brake kits might change that depending on the track width changes. In the back it would depend on what axle you have back there, which you haven't mentioned.

72bluNblu said:

If you don't want to cut, roll, or move anything my suggestion would be either 17x8's or 18x8's front and rear. With those you could run 245/45/17's or 245/40/18's all the way around. You can go bigger up front, but in the back anything bigger than a 245 starts cutting it close as far as rolling and trimming things, and it does depend on the body tolerances of your car.

In the front you'd want between 5.25" and 5.6" backspace on the 17x8's. If you went 18x8's you could run 5.25" to about 6", the 18's clear the inner tie rod so you can run more backspace than 17's. That would be for the 73+ based mopar disks, other brake kits might change that depending on the track width changes. In the back it would depend on what axle you have back there, which you haven't mentioned.

Click to expand...

I have a 8 3/4 rear end that’s all I really know about anything in the rear but I might go 18x8 all the way around

72bluNblu said:

Trying to convert a track car back to the street can be complicated. Is this your cam? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-672-4

If it is, then I'm sure you're finding that a 292/299 duration cam with a 3,000-6,600 power band and a 3,800 stall convertor isn't super street friendly. But depending on your engine's compression ratio it won't be so easy as just swapping the cam and convertor. Going to a smaller cam might cause detonation, so then you'd have to look at possibly lowering the compression ratio. Like I said, it can get complicated. Then there's the reverse manual valve body, which isn't exactly daily driver material IMO. Honestly, you'd probably be better off starting a whole new thread on what to do to make that engine more streetable.

And it really depends on what your goals are. My Duster has a 276/284 duration, .513/.533 lift cam with a 9.8:1, .060" over 340. I ran it with 3.55 gears for awhile, but those weren't really enough. So now it has 4.30's, but with a T56 6 speed transmission so I can still run around on the freeway. Even my engine is a little hot for how I use my car, which is my daily driver. For a weekend car it would be awesome, but as a daily that sees commute traffic it can sometimes get to be a little much. Not enough that I'm going to change it though. But you see the point, what works great on the track isn't so great on the street, what you can get away with on a weekend fun car is different than what you want for a daily driver, etc.

Suspension is the same, you probably have small torsion bars and really stiff rear springs. Which is great for a track only set up. But on the street it means piss-poor handling, which isn't good. But depending on what you've got now it could mean replacing a lot of the suspension components you have. Again, it depends on what you want. If it's street/strip you'd want something different than if you want to make it a corner carver. You could get a whole giant thread going just on suspension too. Or you could start your own build thread and work on all the different topics there.

As for the DoctorDiff Cobra style brakes, I really like them. They use the Mustang Cobra style PBR calipers with a C5 Corvette rotor and aluminum hub. All the parts except for the hub are from production cars, so, tried and tested and readily available. I run them with DoctorDiff's 11.7" rear disks, with 275/35/18's up front and 295/35/18's out back. I've had them on my car for about 6 years now, never had an issue with them.
View attachment 1715548098
View attachment 1715548099

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Wow nice car. Umm thinking similar look but like the old school look.

72bluNblu said:

If you don't want to cut, roll, or move anything my suggestion would be either 17x8's or 18x8's front and rear. With those you could run 245/45/17's or 245/40/18's all the way around. You can go bigger up front, but in the back anything bigger than a 245 starts cutting it close as far as rolling and trimming things, and it does depend on the body tolerances of your car.

In the front you'd want between 5.25" and 5.6" backspace on the 17x8's. If you went 18x8's you could run 5.25" to about 6", the 18's clear the inner tie rod so you can run more backspace than 17's. That would be for the 73+ based mopar disks, other brake kits might change that depending on the track width changes. In the back it would depend on what axle you have back there, which you haven't mentioned.

Click to expand...

so I’ve got my eyes set on two sets was wondering if you could help cause I’m not too sure if these coy wheels would fit
https://www.coyswheel.com/c-5-gunmetal
https://www.jegs.com/i/American-
Racing/286/605M7861C/10002/-1

Owen Diaz said:

so I’ve got my eyes set on two sets was wondering if you could help cause I’m not too sure if these coy wheels would fit
https://www.coyswheel.com/c-5-gunmetal
https://www.jegs.com/i/American-
Racing/286/605M7861C/10002/-1

Click to expand...

Ok, so, in the front you need to have a 5.25" to 5.6" backspace with a 17" rim. Both wheels have options, the AR's have a 17x8 with a 5.625" backspace that should work, the Coys have an 18x8 with a 5.5" backspace. Either should work in the front.

In the back it depends on a couple things. You say you have an 8 3/4 axle, but that would not have been stock for a '75 A-body. Do you know the width of the rear axle? Does it have the 5x4.5" bolt pattern? 8 3/4's come in a bunch of different widths, which will determine the backspace you need.