340 w/ 727 auto won't turnover

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'73Dart340

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Trying to crank motor over and nothing but a click. Checked battery, starter relay and changed out the starter. Thought about the neutral safety switch but by passed that and same result plus I'm assuming when in park that would not matter. Never had this issue before. Drove the car right before this happened with no issues. Parked in driveway and drove into the garage that same day. About a week later nothing. Any solutions anyone may have would be great. Thanks.
 
I know you said checked Battery, but those are tell tale signs of weak battery. With headlights on check battery voltage to see if you still have at least 12 volts. How old is battery? put a charger on it. Car sat for a week maybe something left on? I changed a starter in 1970 only to find out it was battery. So now I always go to batt. first, and its so much more accessible.
 
Neutral safety switch provides ground for starter relay coil only in park or neutral. I dont know how you went about bypassing it. The cheesy replacement battery terminals can cause this same condition. Barely enough connection to wires to cause relay to close.
 
If "it clicked" it sounds like the relay is firing. Maybe the relay is bad, maybe the starter is bad, maybe the wire from the relay to starter solenoid is bad. Jumper the two large exposed terminals on the starter relay. If it cranks, the starter, battery, cables, and solenoid wire are all OK. Double check the relay clicks. If it does the relay contacts are gone.
 
I recently had this. Turned out that the shift linkage on my 727 was slightly out of whack. So, the car thought it was still in gear when the shift lever was in park. I re-set the rooster comb and solved it.

Try starting in Neutral. Try moving the shift lever a bit when starting. Maybe you can find the right position.

May or may not work for you.
 
If your hearing the relay click when the key is turned its nothing to do with the neutral switch. It could a be hydro locked cylinder.(gas or water in cylinder). I would bet its a loose connection either on starter or battery wire or ground. You already said you checked the battery, that would be the first suspect.
Put a socket on the damper bolt and turn the engine by hand.
 
If you don't have a multimeter, like when away from home, turn on the dome lamp to use as a poor-man's voltmeter. If it dims a lot when trying to crank, then there is a large voltage drop across the BAT+ or BAT- terminal, or the battery is weak. Measure the voltage difference right at the battery, i.e. probes right on the lead posts. Measure again on the cable sides. If much lower, clean your battery terminals. Try turning the engine over by hand to assure no hydrolock or such.
 
I'm assuming they just grounded the NSS wire in order to "bypass" it.
I agree that it sounds like a battery problem or a bad connection to the battery/starter/relay.
 
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