j par
Well-hung Member
Now the intake manifold is a cool piece because it is universal and you can use it on a Magnum or la motor. A must have for a magnum swap...
Last edited:
360 build
- Thread starter texas360
- Start date
-
I throw them on for now always can switch down the road, probably work better than you think they would, But Obviously your gonna be sacrifice some power.
A running driving car is better than a sitting car.
A running driving car is better than a sitting car.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,900
- Reaction score
- 12,255
I agree with those who say "just do it". It's one of those "you can't really lose" combos.
However; I recommend that you calculate your exact compression ratio. That stock 360 cam,IIRC, is a long-ramp 252/112 design, and so the installed Ica could be just 54*(@.008tappet lift) . The Wallace calculator says you should be fine at up to 9/1 Scr @ sealevel, so you should be fine; still, you gotta know, to prevent your cylinder pressure from sending your combo into detonation.
With open-chamber heads, you also need to consider the loss of squish, and you may need to target .080or more, piston to head clearance, which also shouldn't be a problem.
I would assemble that in a heartbeat, with a matching small-port intake; it can be a dynomite combo for the right application. ........ as long as you take care of the detonation issue. You may like it so much that you will want to never change it.
For this application, you need the air to be as dense as is possible, and the exhaust system will need to make it as easy as possible to get rid of the spent gasses, thus at least, not costing you power. That 360 2bbl cam has very little overlap, so headers are not gonna make much power thru the "Fifth cycle"; nevertheless, they will make some additional torque for you, over logs.
So; I know this is maybe gonna sound strange, but I highly recommend long-tube headers, or at least HP-type manifolds, and a free-flowing exhaust,together with
fresh cold air to the carb. In your case, being in Texas, "cold" is relative,lol; but air from not under the hood is gonna go a long ways in making this combo work. Underhood air can be a minimum of say 200* with a fully warmed up engine, to more like 300*/400* with unwrapped headers at WOT. Versus 80 to 110* ish for "RamAir".
Happy HotRodding.
Btw; a 2800stall will really wake this combo up.
However; I recommend that you calculate your exact compression ratio. That stock 360 cam,IIRC, is a long-ramp 252/112 design, and so the installed Ica could be just 54*(@.008tappet lift) . The Wallace calculator says you should be fine at up to 9/1 Scr @ sealevel, so you should be fine; still, you gotta know, to prevent your cylinder pressure from sending your combo into detonation.
With open-chamber heads, you also need to consider the loss of squish, and you may need to target .080or more, piston to head clearance, which also shouldn't be a problem.
I would assemble that in a heartbeat, with a matching small-port intake; it can be a dynomite combo for the right application. ........ as long as you take care of the detonation issue. You may like it so much that you will want to never change it.
For this application, you need the air to be as dense as is possible, and the exhaust system will need to make it as easy as possible to get rid of the spent gasses, thus at least, not costing you power. That 360 2bbl cam has very little overlap, so headers are not gonna make much power thru the "Fifth cycle"; nevertheless, they will make some additional torque for you, over logs.
So; I know this is maybe gonna sound strange, but I highly recommend long-tube headers, or at least HP-type manifolds, and a free-flowing exhaust,together with
fresh cold air to the carb. In your case, being in Texas, "cold" is relative,lol; but air from not under the hood is gonna go a long ways in making this combo work. Underhood air can be a minimum of say 200* with a fully warmed up engine, to more like 300*/400* with unwrapped headers at WOT. Versus 80 to 110* ish for "RamAir".
Happy HotRodding.
Btw; a 2800stall will really wake this combo up.
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
Oiling through the pushrods is a misprint and has been that way for 5 years or more they are definitely a la head . I don't remember if they make a magnum or not. As far as RAM heads go they will be a 360 standard head that have been worked over they would be a good option but I would definitely save the other $400 and get the speed Masters / Pro Comp
Save that money for something better.
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
Well there you go Texas 360 clear as mud LOL oh, you have a few options and good advice best of luck let us know how it goes and what you decided.
will do.. ill keep everyone updated
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Not BS. They come with a very simple, old school piss poor valve job. Those valve jobs were obsolete in 1990.
To let that out the door is a disservice to the customer. Unless the shop is so stone aged it still uses stones for a valve job.
dano
Evil Handy Man
Right know I'm having to redo the rear axle bearings. Long story there.....
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
I read through the thread and can't remember if the 318 heads are ready to go or not
if they are ready to go with fresh stem seals just run them
good timing chain
all it costs you is some gasket and you will not notice the difference around town
post up your results and do a compression check for a baseline
now if the 318 heads need a valve job...and guides...
did you mention your rear gear?
btw you never said what year block from the first post I could not tell if it was a later roller motor
always post up all the specs please
thanks
if they are ready to go with fresh stem seals just run them
good timing chain
all it costs you is some gasket and you will not notice the difference around town
post up your results and do a compression check for a baseline
now if the 318 heads need a valve job...and guides...
did you mention your rear gear?
btw you never said what year block from the first post I could not tell if it was a later roller motor
always post up all the specs please
thanks
fresh 318 heads, block is 78 model and rear gear is 3:55 with reverse manual 904 and 2600 stall
j par
Well-hung Member
If they are fresh heads I'd run um...
Save for aluminum and be happy...
I agreed because it's what I'd do. However, I have never installed 318 heads on a 360, but in his case I would. Also, I'm happy "so far" with the SM small block head.
j par
Well-hung Member
BS... Car is running better than ever..
This is a low budget 318...
At this level.. totally BS...
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
- Messages
- 6,825
- Reaction score
- 4,303
Saw a 318 headed 318 with 11-1 comp with a comp cams solid 216 @ 0.050 run 12.7's @ 105. This car looked dead stock except for the Air Gap and 650DP and was running 225 street tyre's but had the exhaust removed . They also pushed it to the line.
The heads were ported by some one who knows what he's doing.
Thats what I want to do is save and get the speedmaster heads.
If your on a realistic budget. Nothing wrong with running 318 heads, it will run great till around 5k rpm and be done after that. That’s what Im running, 318 heads open chambered 360 stock bottom end, xe256 cam, Ld4b intake. It fires right off every time and is a sweet little cruising engine. Not going to set the world on fire that’s for sure. However, I still can burn the tires, plenty of get up and go for me to that point. Until the money tree blooms something better I’ll continue to run it. There is nothing on my car that I had to dropped a 1,000 dollars on at one time. Bought my car for $900 and got it running with a strict budget. Years later replaced the slant six with the 360/727 out of an RV that I bought on Craigslist for $325. Here I am 7 years later doing body work. My point is do what you can afford at the time your willing to get it done. I eventually want the big power and will make it happen with another rebuild but not until my car and my wallet is ready for it. I would think your 1,000 bucks would be better spent getting the car done and engine running IMO. Replacing a set of heads is easy enough down the road.
Nice story, and you've done well. And, you are correct on advising to get the car going because it's true, heads are easy enough down the road.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I'm Not looking to blown doors off. Something to run good, be reliable and have some torque and power. My. 318 is so wore out in car it barely maintains 2 psi oil pressure at idle. It was rebuilt 17 yes ago
You'll have bottom end torque....
Better than the 318 I assume. It has 2600 stall, 3:55 gears and rv manual valve bodyYou'll have bottom end torque....
j par
Well-hung Member
I agree I have a lot to learn still and that's what makes life worth living.
I just don't see the necessity for the machine shop gurus to get in his head and pump up their wallets. Of course there's always improvements in every area. Personally I think this is one that's not necessary in this instance.. I can see where you have the knowledge means and ability at your own house to do all this so why not..
Last edited:
-
