Tire hitting fender

MRGTX said
First...this car is gorgeous. It’s worth any trouble that it will take to get it right...and this IS fixable.

Second, I would focus on making it drivable just to get it to an alignment shop. That is going answer all of your questions.

Assuming the whole car isn’t bent, the factors affecting your fender clearance are going to be wheel offset (too negative), tire height, and caster adjustment.

Before you mess with any of that, check to make sure your fender brace is adjusted all the way out. There’s a slotted hole at one end of that rod that may give you a little more clearance.

If that doesn’t do the job, pull some caster out of it. The means of adjusting that are detailed on the forums but it might be just one degree too much on one side that is causing the contact.

What are the specs on your wheels, by the way? I’m almost certain that (as others have said) you may need more offset/less backspace. The fact that it fits on the driver’s side may actually be evidence of a problem on that side...maybe you have some screwed up negative camber over there?

IIRC, your particular body style is one of the most restrictive in terms of fender clearance on that front corner. Look up @autoxcuda . He knows his stuff and has done some good work on making his car run some aggressive tires...but he had to trim that corner to make that happen. Your stock-ish front tires shouldn’t require that kind of mod but he may be able to help.

67-69 Barracuda’s don’t have a fender stabilizing rod in front of the tire bottom of front fender lip. Mopars with front valences typically don’t get those. Because the valence supports the fender.

67-69 darts, Duster’s, 73-up Dart sports, Valiants, 73-Darts all don’t have front lower valences.

I wouldn’t get too alarmed over side to side difference in clearance he showed in those pictures. Especially if the cars not aligned yet.

Reason is, theres so many variables that can cause that. Mostly a common fender bender.

And, if the car is not aligned yet, you really have to attempt that and ask for as much caster as possible. Go to a place that aligns older cars.

Those older aftermarket one piece rims typically push the tire out compared to stock rims. That really kills things.

Things that could move the tires back:

1) Offset upper control arm bushings Moog 7103 installed for most caster. If you have stock UCA’s and non offset bushings currently. This will push the UCA back.

2) One poly strut rod bushing per side In rear position. Thicker than rubber bushing and will push the LCA back. If you put a poly bushing in front position you may not be able to get the safety cotter pin installed.

2a) OR adjustable lower strut rods

3) As much caster as possible

4) same width rims with 1/2” or greater backspace than now.

IMHO, I’d do 1-3 first if you really like those rims.