First time at the strip for the Dart, results and what I should do for next time?

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NJDart

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So about 20 yrs after I built the engine the Dart finally made it to the track a few weeks ago. It was busy and I only got two runs in. First run car stalled after the burnout I got flustered rushed everything left the line sideways ran something like a 14.2. Second run slowed down didn't get a great burnout left the line just above idle still spun but not as bad as the first run, spun again a little on the 1-2 shift, 13.08/107mph, 2.125 60ft.
Here's the combo 69 Dart, 360/727 8-3/4 3.91s. 360 has Ebrock performer heads no porting/Hughs Cam .535/237 Intake/.540/243 108. Airgap RPM /Holley Street avenger 750 vac sec./~10.5:1. T/A converter 3500 stall. Pinion snubber/5 leaf springs/basic kyb shocks/.990 t-bars. /225 drag radials.
I roller through the water stepped on the manual brakes (no line lock) the tires would spin but it was hard to keep the car from rolling forward too fast.
So, I plan to go back in a few weeks- what changes would you make and why?

Thanks for any help/suggestions, as I started with I've been out the hobby for years finally getting going again.
 
NJDart said:
500 ft. was a warm day but no too humid
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You should be able to get a good mid 12 with that mph. I was running 12.44@107.
Looks like the 60ft needs some help. Possible go from the 225 to maybe a 245 or 255 if they'll fit. I would think you should be able to get 1.7s or so with that converter and gear. Maybe some adjustable rear shocks to help, but without a launch video it's hard to tell.
 
clamp the front segment of the leaf springs (stiffens the spring to plant the rear tires and aid in body lift) , more rear tire or try varying your tire pressure, if you have a front sway bar disconnect it, some 90/10 front shocks(helps transfer weight to the rear tires) and rancho/caltract adjustable rear shocks.
 
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chrgdrt said:
clamp the front segment of the leaf springs, more rear tire or try varying your tire pressure, if you have a front sway bar disconnect it, some 90/10 front shocks and rancho/caltract adjustable rear shocks.
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What track were you at ? I run Island all the time, try running 20 lbs in the drag radials thats what I run on my truck and it works well,as far as the line loc you definitely need one I have one available send me a message.
 
getting the car to leave hard (hooking up) is where it's at. Don't smoke the drag radials, as soon as they began to "haze", get off the brakes and back off the gas till it hooks, and you should be in 2nd gear doing this. I bet the MPH will move to 108 and that would move you to lower 12's.
 
Drive around the wet box and back into it about half a turn of the tire and pull back out of it. Then apply a little bit of brakes and punch it and get the back tires spinning... If you have an automatic bang second while they're spinning... Lightly hold on to the brakes till they stop and grip...
What was your rear tire pressure?...
Timing?
Really you're going to need about 5 to 10 passes to work out the bugs in you and then 5 or 10 more to work out the bugs in your car....
 
Drag shocks and 6 cyl T-bars .830 will give you a lot more traction . Those .990 bars are to stiff for drag racing.
 
As already mentioned, traction. Mid to low 12s if you can get it to leave hard. I've run 12.35 at 107 with a 1.69. If your carb is box stock ,I bet there is some et to be gained there too. No personal experience with the Street Avenger carbs , but have read many times on the 'net of people having issues with them . IIRC, they are really lean out of the box.
 
Syleng1 said:
Line lock.
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Frankly, you don’t have enough runs on it to know what if anything needs changing yet.
Get to the point where it will repeat within a tenth or so before making any changes to the combo.

I concur with the line lock suggestion.

At 107, mid 12’s would be no problem....... if the 60’ times come around.

Once you’re at the point of pretty reliable repeatability....... then you’re ready to start making changes.
Unless the car is dead hooking....... the first place I’d likely go is the T-bars and shocks.

If the car won’t hook well enough to get the ET’s within a tenth or so, you may have to start looking at the T-bars and shocks sooner rather than later.
Like the ET’s....... you are also looking for good repeatability from the 60’ timer.
 
Also a adjustable pinion snubber and get it close to the floor.

I'm not a fan of vacuum sec carbs, a double pumper would get you more off the line.
 
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I ran vac secondary carbs for year
When i got my first double pumper(a small little 600 cfm one) i have never looked back.

I'm note sure i would try a vac secondary carb again, even if it was a tall gear daily driver. The only exception would be a good condition TQ

that wasn't a suggestion to do next.

Practice, practice practice.
when you can make a consisted pass(with in a couple tenths) try stalling less off the line.......stalling higher of the line...

Agree with j par drive around the water box with any tire that has tread.......Including cheater slick. you know the slick that have a couple small groves down them.
 
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Cudafever said:
I ran vac secondary carbs for year
When i got my first double pumper(a small little 600 cfm one) i have never looked back.

I'm note sure i would try a vac secondary carb again, even if it was a tall gear daily driver. The only exception would be a good condition TQ
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Every thread is not a carburetor thread! LOL he needs seat time...
 
Put a faster initial curve in the distributor (lighter spring and one with a larger loop for the top end.)
 
Look at the edit time stamp and look at you time posting...............................Yup was editing while you were posting just like i said!
 
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