Tire hitting fender

autoxcuda said
When I look at the tire comparator the 235 adds .7” to width and takes .8” off diameter.

So split those two in half and the tire moves back .4 and out .35. And you are hitting the tire turned at an angle. So going back near the same as out cancels each other out .

Something like 215/65/14 or 225/60/14 AND something else.

IMHO moving the tire away 1/2” more than now is not enough to protect a new paint job like that.

What was the caster spec from the alignment you got?

What strut rod bushings do you have?

Never got anything from the alignment shop , they've been doing my cars for year and I never questioned it . The bushings were the poly bushings. What kind of clearance should there be up front like 2 inches?

autoxcuda said
When I look at the tire comparator the 235 adds .7” to width and takes .8” off diameter.

So split those two in half and the tire moves back .4 and out .35. And you are hitting the tire turned at an angle. So going back near the same as out cancels each other out .

Something like 215/65/14 or 225/60/14 AND something else.

IMHO moving the tire away 1/2” more than now is not enough to protect a new paint job like that.

What was the caster spec from the alignment you got?

What strut rod bushings do you have?

205 /60/14 looks better ,I used the poly bushings, didnt get anything from the alignment shop, with what I've ,I did in the past the caster isn't going to give you a whole lot. When I had the k frame out I replaced every bushing, and adjustable strut rods only give you an 1/8 th inch. There's no slop in the k frame holes like b bodies have. Every thing looks good nothing bent , I'm overlooking something it's just a matter of stepping back having patience and go through everything
To me that's the key, process of elimination, check and recheck and patience not giving up. I dont like to just change parts I gotta know exactly why and I use all resources and input from everyone. That's what's great about these forums that we didn't have 30 years ago