Tire hitting fender

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There is a fender support on 67-69 Barracuda that is at the 11 and 1 o’clock positions (depending on side)

You can put washers on the inner fender side and slide out the slot adjuster (some are welded one side). I think I got 3/16” or so washers in there plus the slot.

It mostly helps the upper lip

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67-69 Barracuda’s don’t have a fender stabilizing rod in front of the tire bottom of front fender lip. Mopars with front valences typically don’t get those. Because the valence supports the fender.

67-69 darts, Duster’s, 73-up Dart sports, Valiants, 73-Darts all don’t have front lower valences.

I wouldn’t get too alarmed over side to side difference in clearance he showed in those pictures. Especially if the cars not aligned yet.

Reason is, theres so many variables that can cause that. Mostly a common fender bender.

And, if the car is not aligned yet, you really have to attempt that and ask for as much caster as possible. Go to a place that aligns older cars.

Those older aftermarket one piece rims typically push the tire out compared to stock rims. That really kills things.

Things that could move the tires back:

1) Offset upper control arm bushings Moog 7103 installed for most caster. If you have stock UCA’s and non offset bushings currently. This will push the UCA back.

2) One poly strut rod bushing per side In rear position. Thicker than rubber bushing and will push the LCA back. If you put a poly bushing in front position you may not be able to get the safety cotter pin installed.

2a) OR adjustable lower strut rods

3) As much caster as possible

4) same width rims with 1/2” or greater backspace than now.

IMHO, I’d do 1-3 first if you really like those rims.

So I'm gonna disagree with one thing, the lower fender to bumper brace absolutely came on cars with front valences. All of the '70-'72 Darts I've seen have them. Both of my '71 GT's have them, both of the '71 front clip donors I got parts to convert my Duster over to a Demon had them, and so did a few of the extra '70-72 Dart fenders I've picked up. So not having a lower fender to bumper brace is a Barracuda thing, not a front valence car thing.

I'm also gonna re-emphasize that these cars have really large body tolerances straight from the factory. The rubbing on one side doesn't have to be because of an accident at all. The small amount of interference, compared to the small clearance on the other side, could 100% be the result of the factory tolerances. No accident needed. There are dozens and dozens of threads on this forum about a tire rubbing on one side and not the other. The suspension points can be off by as much as a 1/4", that's before we even start talking about the body tolerances. So honestly, I wouldn't be that worried about the frame rails unless there's a buckle or wrinkle in the rail somewhere.

Your 6" rims with 3.5" of backspace aren't helping either. That's a 0 offset rim, but you have the BBP brake conversion. All the BBP cars had +6 offset rims, so, for a 6" rim that's 4" of backspace. That 1/2" of backspace would likely solve all your issues. The other thing is, a 235/60/14 isn't going to solve your issue. Yes, it's shorter. But it's going to stick out almost another 1/2", which is too much. The lower front corner interference is on turning, not straight ahead. So, the tire height is part of it, but so is the width. Shorter is helpful, wider is not. I would bet the 235/60/14 would hit just as bad because of the added width. Especially with that little backspace.

The suspension modifications can help, but they're not a slam dunk. Using the UCA's to add positive caster might move the wheel back slightly. But, it will also cause the wheel to camber more on turning, which might not help. The strut rods are another matter. If you make them longer they can help, but that will reduce your positive caster and that's not good for handling. If you use the strut rods to add positive caster you're actually making the strut rod shorter, which will make the issue worse. Remember that caster is just an angle, tipping the top of the spindle back adds caster, but so does pulling the bottom of the spindle forward.

And then there's the issue of suspension binding. The strut rods are not there to adjust caster, they're there to locate the LCA. If you use them to move the LCA too far in either direction they will cause binding in the suspension, and you don't want that. I don't think any of the alignment adjustments are going to get you a 1/2" of clearance anyway. There may be some clearance to be gained that way, but not that much.

By far the best solution to all of this is to get a set of wheels that have the right backspace. With a 14x6" that means at least 4" of backspace.
 
So I'm gonna disagree with one thing, the lower fender to bumper brace absolutely came on cars with front valences. All of the '70-'72 Darts I've seen have them. Both of my '71 GT's have them, both of the '71 front clip donors I got parts to convert my Duster over to a Demon had them, and so did a few of the extra '70-72 Dart fenders I've picked up. So not having a lower fender to bumper brace is a Barracuda thing, not a front valence car thing.

I'm also gonna re-emphasize that these cars have really large body tolerances straight from the factory. The rubbing on one side doesn't have to be because of an accident at all. The small amount of interference, compared to the small clearance on the other side, could 100% be the result of the factory tolerances. No accident needed. There are dozens and dozens of threads on this forum about a tire rubbing on one side and not the other. The suspension points can be off by as much as a 1/4", that's before we even start talking about the body tolerances. So honestly, I wouldn't be that worried about the frame rails unless there's a buckle or wrinkle in the rail somewhere.

Your 6" rims with 3.5" of backspace aren't helping either. That's a 0 offset rim, but you have the BBP brake conversion. All the BBP cars had +6 offset rims, so, for a 6" rim that's 4" of backspace. That 1/2" of backspace would likely solve all your issues. The other thing is, a 235/60/14 isn't going to solve your issue. Yes, it's shorter. But it's going to stick out almost another 1/2", which is too much. The lower front corner interference is on turning, not straight ahead. So, the tire height is part of it, but so is the width. Shorter is helpful, wider is not. I would bet the 235/60/14 would hit just as bad because of the added width. Especially with that little backspace.

The suspension modifications can help, but they're not a slam dunk. Using the UCA's to add positive caster might move the wheel back slightly. But, it will also cause the wheel to camber more on turning, which might not help. The strut rods are another matter. If you make them longer they can help, but that will reduce your positive caster and that's not good for handling. If you use the strut rods to add positive caster you're actually making the strut rod shorter, which will make the issue worse. Remember that caster is just an angle, tipping the top of the spindle back adds caster, but so does pulling the bottom of the spindle forward.

And then there's the issue of suspension binding. The strut rods are not there to adjust caster, they're there to locate the LCA. If you use them to move the LCA too far in either direction they will cause binding in the suspension, and you don't want that. I don't think any of the alignment adjustments are going to get you a 1/2" of clearance anyway. There may be some clearance to be gained that way, but not that much.

By far the best solution to all of this is to get a set of wheels that have the right backspace. With a 14x6" that means at least 4" of backspace.

Yes backspace would be best.

But it sounds like he’s set with these wheels.

I think you have to do more than just one thing.

I said “typically” no brace with valances. There’s a B-body’s with or without braces and valence combinations

Even with lower brace, a car with a fender connected valence is not as easy to move out as one without a valence.

On my 68 Dart I have that from dog leg pulled out almost 3”.
 
So I'm gonna disagree with one thing, the lower fender to bumper brace absolutely came on cars with front valences. All of the '70-'72 Darts I've seen have them. Both of my '71 GT's have them, both of the '71 front clip donors I got parts to convert my Duster over to a Demon had them, and so did a few of the extra '70-72 Dart fenders I've picked up. So not having a lower fender to bumper brace is a Barracuda thing, not a front valence car thing.

I'm also gonna re-emphasize that these cars have really large body tolerances straight from the factory. The rubbing on one side doesn't have to be because of an accident at all. The small amount of interference, compared to the small clearance on the other side, could 100% be the result of the factory tolerances. No accident needed. There are dozens and dozens of threads on this forum about a tire rubbing on one side and not the other. The suspension points can be off by as much as a 1/4", that's before we even start talking about the body tolerances. So honestly, I wouldn't be that worried about the frame rails unless there's a buckle or wrinkle in the rail somewhere.

Your 6" rims with 3.5" of backspace aren't helping either. That's a 0 offset rim, but you have the BBP brake conversion. All the BBP cars had +6 offset rims, so, for a 6" rim that's 4" of backspace. That 1/2" of backspace would likely solve all your issues. The other thing is, a 235/60/14 isn't going to solve your issue. Yes, it's shorter. But it's going to stick out almost another 1/2", which is too much. The lower front corner interference is on turning, not straight ahead. So, the tire height is part of it, but so is the width. Shorter is helpful, wider is not. I would bet the 235/60/14 would hit just as bad because of the added width. Especially with that little backspace.

The suspension modifications can help, but they're not a slam dunk. Using the UCA's to add positive caster might move the wheel back slightly. But, it will also cause the wheel to camber more on turning, which might not help. The strut rods are another matter. If you make them longer they can help, but that will reduce your positive caster and that's not good for handling. If you use the strut rods to add positive caster you're actually making the strut rod shorter, which will make the issue worse. Remember that caster is just an angle, tipping the top of the spindle back adds caster, but so does pulling the bottom of the spindle forward.

And then there's the issue of suspension binding. The strut rods are not there to adjust caster, they're there to locate the LCA. If you use them to move the LCA too far in either direction they will cause binding in the suspension, and you don't want that. I don't think any of the alignment adjustments are going to get you a 1/2" of clearance anyway. There may be some clearance to be gained that way, but not that much.

By far the best solution to all of this is to get a set of wheels that have the right backspace. With a 14x6" that means at least 4" of backspace.
I was already thinking what you said about how the factory specs weren't perfect from car to car and as far as the wheels go and backspacing that's the only option I have with those particular rim. Man who ever thought front wheels would be such a problem in 40 years I never had such an issue ugh!
 
You dont think a 205 60 14 would cure the issue? I sure don't want to buy new rims and tires all the way around.
 
Yes backspace would be best.

But it sounds like he’s set with these wheels.

I think you have to do more than just one thing.

I said “typically” no brace with valances. There’s a B-body’s with or without braces and valence combinations

Even with lower brace, a car with a fender connected valence is not as easy to move out as one without a valence.

On my 68 Dart I have that from dog leg pulled out almost 3”.

On the "typical" thing, it's splitting hairs. For me, since Barracuda's were the ONLY A-body that didn't have the lower fender braces, I would say that it's typical to have them vs not, regardless of the valance. B/E's aren't really relevant to this discussion.

As for it being easier to move the lower fender, I'm gonna disagree again. I pushed my lower fenders out over 2", and that's with the '71 Dart fenders and valance. I don't think the valance makes a difference at all as far as moving the fender for tire clearance.

These are the mods I made to clear my 275's. The picture is with my Dart fenders, but, I used the same lower fender brace on my Duster fenders as I was running the 275's prior to my Demon conversion.
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You dont think a 205 60 14 would cure the issue? I sure don't want to buy new rims and tires all the way around.

Man a 205/60/14 is only 23.7" tall, that'll look super goofy.

I would try a 215/60/14 or even a 205/70/14. The 215/60/14 is 25.2" tall, so that's quite a bit shorter than your 215/70/14's, you'd pick up over a 1/4" of clearance just with those. A 205/70/14 is taller at 25.4", but it's also narrower which will also help. I'd say it's a toss up between those two. But they only come in BFG T/A's, I see you have Cooper Cobra's at the moment.

I looked up those AR's, the 14x6's only have 3.42" of backspace. Unfortunately I don't see anything else that would improve your situation in a 14" wheel that's in that style. 15's yes, but again that would mean all new wheels and tires.

I think if you go to 215/60/14's or 205/70/14's, played with your alignment and body fits a little you should be able to make it work. Have you tried loosening all the bolts on the fender and sliding it forward? It will unfortunately mess with your door gap, but even a little would be a big deal for the tire clearance.
 
I have 205 70-14's on the front of mine. It is a Swinger though and not a Barracuda and has the Big n Little's look.

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I have 205 70-14's on the front of mine. It is a Swinger though and not a Barracuda and has the Big n Little's look.

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Yes but you also have the SBP brakes, which means a narrower track width. And what are the wheel specs? A little backspace would solve all the OP's issues.

Not to mention the lower front fender corner is a bigger problem on the Barracuda's to begin with because of the size and shape of the wheel opening.
 
Yes but you also have the SBP brakes, which means a narrower track width. And what are the wheel specs? A little backspace would solve all the OP's issues.

Not to mention the lower front fender corner is a bigger problem on the Barracuda's to begin with because of the size and shape of the wheel opening.
4 wheel drum. 10" And I have standard Rally's and backspace.
 
4 wheel drum. 10" And I have standard Rally's and backspace.

Right, so if they're standard that means they're either a 0 or +6 offset. And the 10" SBP drums means you have at least a 1/2" extra space because the track width is more than a 1/2" narrower for the SBP drums compared to the BBP disks.

If the OP had and extra 1/2" of backspace to make up for the change in track width he'd be set.
 
Right, so if they're standard that means they're either a 0 or +6 offset. And the 10" SBP drums means you have at least a 1/2" extra space because the track width is more than a 1/2" narrower going from SBP drums to BBP disks. If the OP had and extra 1/2" of backspace to make up for the change in track width he'd be set.
Does he have 14x7's on the front? He needs 6's. Of the few photos I have seen of the issue the rim sits out too far. I have yet seen a photo of what part of the tire rubs the fender. May be there is a photo buried in 4 pages of posts. I bet that tire on a stock offset wheel wouldn't be an issue but I am just guessing. (as we all are)
 
Does he have 14x7's on the front? He needs 6's. Of the few photos I have seen of the issue the rim sits out too far. I have yet seen a photo of what part of the tire rubs the fender. May be there is a photo buried in 4 pages of posts. I bet that tire on a stock offset wheel wouldn't be an issue but I am just guessing. (as we all are)

He has 14x6's but they only have a 3.42" backspace (-2mm offset). The tire hits the fender near the lower front corner of the wheel opening.

A stock offset wheel for the BBP disks he has would be a +6, which would be a 4" backspace for a 14x6. Unfortunately, there's nothing in that style of wheel in a 14" that has a better offset. 15's yes, but he doesn't want to buy all new wheels.

He also raised the car to keep the tires from hitting the top of the wheel opening, so his alignment has changed too. That's also a backspace issue but that ship has already sailed. I think he can keep the rims he has if he goes to a slightly shorter tire because his 215/70/14's are like 25.8" or 25.9" tall. A 215/60/14 or 205/70/14 would probably work with the combination of re-doing the alignment to try and grab back some positive caster and loosening all the fender bolts to see if he can cheat it a little further forward. A little goes a long way, an 1/8" here, a 1/16" there and it'll clear without any major modifications.
 
@autoxcuda i do note the difference , there the valance mounting must be a dressed . but you can't get as must of the swept out as you can , when you streach those braces , not remove them . and @72bluNblu had a good cut to fix idea .
 
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