Custom mechanical fan builder

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512Stroker said:
Why dont you like water pump lube? It's just soluble oil
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Water pump lube is great.

I exclusively use an additive that’s: water lube, wetting agent, anti-electrolysis, and anti cavitation. Something more that just water soluble oil.

I live in So Cal, no need for antifreeze.

I mentioned it because it’s another combination of something to mix with water.

What I’m getting at is that tap water is not all equal. And it typically has lots of minerals and be excessively “hard water”.

Use reverse osmosis or distilled water with no minerals to mix with.
 
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This is .076 volts measured in my radiator

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Calgon is a non foaming surficant, ie. 'wetter'. Buddy dropped 5 degrees with 2 tablespoons of Calgon dishwasher detergent in the radiator on a whim. High school days: when you cleaned out the couch for gas money.
 
72bluNblu said:
That sounds like a radiator problem. If it was just a fan problem, cruising at speed should lower the temperature significantly.

The other possibility is a water flow issue, but a 1.3:1 pulley ratio should be fine. What water pump is in it? 6 or 8 vane?

If you have the pulley matched to the proper pump an electric pump is just expensive. For a drag only car fine whatever. On the street I’d never use anything other than a mechanical pump.



Who cares? The important thing about a radiator is not how it stands up to a floor jack, it’s how well it cools the car. And the OP is not the first guy to have issues with a really expensive Griffin NOT cooling his car.
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Mine wasnt ''really expensive'' , I bought it off ebay/summit racing for $286 , about 10 yrs ago , and cooling a supposed 761 h.p. , is harder than cooling a small block street car , to start with , especially in a 68 barracuda.
I also bought the shroud from summit over the phone , and have changed its thickness 3 times over the last 10 yrs or so , ''getting a little ugly'' , and I do not have a heating problem , just watching it now , I can always go to an 18'' fan , and back to a non clutch set up if I have to !
I am sold on Griffin radiators myself , hasnt leaked a drop in 10 ish yrs. !
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I have only ran across 1 18'' x 2 1/4'' pitch fan , and they want $100 FOR JUST THE BLADES , -AINT HAPPENIN W/ ME !
 
autoxcuda said:
Water pump lube is great.

I exclusively use an additive that’s: water lube, wetting agent, anti-electrolysis, and anti cavitation. Something more that just water soluble oil.

I mentioned it because it’s another combination of something to mix with water.

What I’m getting at is that tap water is not all equal. And it typically has lots of minerals and be excessively “hard water”.

Use reverse osmosis or distilled water with no minerals to mix with.
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I have been using distilled water and water pump lube in Industrial, Ag, Racing and daily drivers for over 40 years. Would never go without.
 
famous bob said:
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I have only ran across 1 18'' x 2 1/4'' pitch fan , and they want $100 FOR JUST THE BLADES , -AINT HAPPENIN W/ ME !
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2-1/4" is pretty thin for a clutch fan blade.
I've got one of them thats approx. 2-1/4" but the rest are much closer to 3".
The clutch fan blades I've compared are typically a steeper pitch than fixed fan blades.
 
autoxcuda said:
Might be calcium deposits.

Have you done a simple voltmeter electrolysis test? Should be under .3 volts. Connect one side of voltmeter to body ground and dangle other in coolant.

Also check engine ground straps.

Do you mix tap water with coolant or water pump lube in radiator?
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Anything is possible. I have not done a voltmeter test, but will. currently using just tap water and water wetter, didn't want to use 50/50 because I assumed I'd probably have to drain the radiator a couple more times.
 
Velocity111 said:
Anything is possible. I have not done a voltmeter test, but will. currently using just tap water and water wetter, didn't want to use 50/50 because I assumed I'd probably have to drain the radiator a couple more times.
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The voltage test is quick and easy. Do it with and without car running.

Next time change to distilled just to eliminate that. Not too expensive at Walmart or grocery store.

Does your area have hard water and people use water softeners?
 
autoxcuda said:
The voltage test is quick and easy. Do it with and without car running.

Next time change to distilled just to eliminate that. Not too expensive at Walmart or grocery store.

Does your area have hard water and people use water softeners?
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Will do. Water is fine, no softener systems needed.
 
Velocity111 said:
...didn't want to use 50/50 because I assumed I'd probably have to drain the radiator a couple more times.
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since it seems like i always end up draining the radiator a couple times after a build, i got a spare drain pan years ago, just for fresh coolant in fresh system
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Jimacuda said:
2-1/4" is pretty thin for a clutch fan blade.
I've got one of them thats approx. 2-1/4" but the rest are much closer to 3".
The clutch fan blades I've compared are typically a steeper pitch than fixed fan blades.
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THE PICH IS 2 1/4'' DEEP - DEEPEST ONE I`VE RAN ACROSS YET ---ALTHO I`VE JUST BEEN NOTICEING THE ONES IN SUMMIT AND JEGS , AND WHATS FOR SALE ON THE INTERNET , MOST ARE 1 3/4'' DEEP PITCH.
 
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