440 Engine Knock

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tooslow

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Howdy,
I hear a knock and the frequency makes me think it is a main bearing . Engine has 800 miles on a pretty Hot rebuild . I already started pulling the engine I would rather pull the engine and check the bottom end vs driving it and having it grenade . Plus its no fun driving it knowing something may be wrong.
Question
Would someone help me with a procedure to check Main and Rod bearings while I have it on the stand?
> I want to disassemble as LITTLE as possible
> I know how to assemble and engine , I know you have to return all caps to same journals,torque ect... I have Plastigage and all Indicators, calipers, dial indicators . ect..
> I am assuming all of the ARP bolts are toast once removed , Is this true
Thank You for ANY help
Go Dodge !!

I want to make it to Ohio with my 69 Dart in August, I have to get moving on this
 
You can reuse the crankshaft and rod bolts. Some purists will disagree but I assume this is not a Top Fuel motor. I'd think a knock would be related to a rod bearing. Remove the pan and check each rod one at a time until you find the issue. 65'
 
You can reuse the crankshaft and rod bolts. Some purists will disagree but I assume this is not a Top Fuel motor. I'd think a knock would be related to a rod bearing. Remove the pan and check each rod one at a time until you find the issue. 65'
 
Thx ,
reuse ARP fasteners and money saved
Its a Prostreet and not abused much
 
What I am thinking
> Turn engine up side down on the engine stand
> Check Crank end play
> Check rod axial play
Then
> Remove the Rod bearing caps and look for wear pattern
> Remove Main Caps and check for wear pattern
Question
Should I remove the bearings , rods, caps, and check with plastigage ?
If I do remove the bearings can i reinstall them or do i need New?
I am thinking if a bearing has any issue I will see it in the wear pattern ?
 
Who was your engine builder (self refection, not really a question). Did he blueprint it? 800 miles? Give him a call and chew things over with him (play nice). If you chewed a bearing. You have metal everywhere. Only the really hardcore would just throw another set of bearing at it. Us anal retentive types are in for a full tear down, clean clean clean. New oil pump, bearings, and gaskets at a minimum.
 
Assuming that crank will come out, but need to determine what caused the failure so this doesn't happen again.
 
Communication is not my strong point unfortunately for me . If I have an issue i will take block to machine shop.
What I am trying to ask is:
How do I identify if i have a problem ?,
I am tearing the motor down , that is happening now , is a visual enough or do i need to check the clearances .
 
If you have a knock, then probably you will see the damage upon disassembly. Then all clearances and oil system will need to be inspected and checked as part of your investigation as to why this occurred. At long last the situation will become clear to you what has occurred and how you must proceed.Good luck.
 
If you have a knock, then probably you will see the damage upon disassembly. Then all clearances and oil system will need to be inspected and checked as part of your investigation as to why this occurred. At long last the situation will become clear to you what has occurred and how you must proceed.Good luck.
 
Great,
Hopefully all is well , I will post pictures of any iffy bearings when i remove the caps
 
What I am thinking
> Turn engine up side down on the engine stand
> Check Crank end play
> Check rod axial play
Then
> Remove the Rod bearing caps and look for wear pattern
> Remove Main Caps and check for wear pattern
Question
Should I remove the bearings , rods, caps, and check with plastigage ?
If I do remove the bearings can i reinstall them or do i need New?
I am thinking if a bearing has any issue I will see it in the wear pattern ?

A simple check to do first is cut your oil filter open and see if there is any bearing material that it caught.

If there is steel in there, then that is a lot more concerning. Check the paper filter with a magnet, you will know if there is steel in there or not.
 
Remove the oil pan
Check crank end play
Check rod end play
If nothing jumps out at you, start checking rods one at a time. You can def reuse the ARP bolts.
 
Howdy,
I hear a knock and the frequency makes me think it is a main bearing . Engine has 800 miles on a pretty Hot rebuild . I already started pulling the engine I would rather pull the engine and check the bottom end vs driving it and having it grenade . Plus its no fun driving it knowing something may be wrong.
Question
Would someone help me with a procedure to check Main and Rod bearings while I have it on the stand?
> I want to disassemble as LITTLE as possible
> I know how to assemble and engine , I know you have to return all caps to same journals,torque ect... I have Plastigage and all Indicators, calipers, dial indicators . ect..
> I am assuming all of the ARP bolts are toast once removed , Is this true
Thank You for ANY help
Go Dodge !!

I want to make it to Ohio with my 69 Dart in August, I have to get moving on this
ARP says three uses for the critical stuff like rod and head bolts. Personally, once an engine's been put into service and beat on I just replace them on the next build-up. I do understand they're costly and, believe me I've done my share of re-using even factory bolts without issue...if your ARPs were only used once I wouldn't sweat it unless it's gonna see some hard running. The guys have offered some good ideas, I'm not sure how conclusive an investigation will be without disassembly. I'm with the kimmer I would get with the builder before taking anything apart.
 
Did you check the converter bolts first?
Thanks guys, I got some really good advice !
Its hard for me to see small particles in my engine oil after its in the pan , easier on TV shows. I m blind I guess
I drained 2 quarts of 8 quarts, and looked pretty clean , filtered it thru a paint strainer no obvious metal .
Cut Oil filter idea worked great and it was clean
Convertor Bolts- I had not thought of that and they were tight
My builder died and the shop was sold , only remanufacturer engines now.
Plus I assembled the engine , checked clearances ect..

Problem
600 lift Mech cam , 256 dur @.050
number 3 Cyl. exhaust valve had .160/in lash vs .028/in , what i set them too
I checked my lift with a Mitutoya(good) Dial indicator and the cam lobe was ok ,wasnt rounded . Inspected valve , seat, changed the push rod ,and readjusted . I use blue thread lock on the Crane roller rocker nuts , maybe i forgot to tighten ??
 
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